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Kahunaminor

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About Kahunaminor

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kiama, NSW, Australia

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  1. Sometimes it just pays to slow down and re read the instructions, you did it once for a reason, right? Marked some things that you need to pay attention to? Then just got all excited and ditched the instructions, becoming complacent in your knowledge of the build sequence: Enough said. Perfect Plastic Putty should resolve this easily enough, I hope. Regards,
  2. School holidays here at the moment so my time is spent refereeing my two children and generally ensuring each of them sees another day and doesn’t kill the other or cause actual bodily harm. I have managed some sporadic bench sessions for minimal gain. My beloved wife did get them some time with friends today so I kicked on. The stencils have been completed and the majority of the control surfaces have been added. It was time to give my creation legs! The tail wheel has been attached as has the MLG at that jaunty angle favoured by the Messerschmitt designers. The oleos have been coated in Bare Metal Foil chrome and then covered with Tamiya tape for preservation: The drop tank has some plumbing and a breather tube that needed to be added. Some lead wire and a couple of holes: That saw me up until this morning when it was time to attach the Brassin exhausts. Each was cut carefully from the moulding blocks, one side at a time as they are handed. Three hours and a lot of swearing later, both sides were installed with the PE shields hiding a lot of misadventures: In between sides, I made the upper and lower brake lines and added the uppers to the MLG covers: I also started prepping a little side project out of left over pieces from this build: Regards,
  3. Many thanks Hakan, The stencilling continues as does the touch up work. Having painted the markings in Tamiya XF acrylics, I have found if you VERY CAREFULLY scratch away at any offending paint goofs with a toothpick, you can remove the misaligned paint. Do not use a really sharp item such as a pick or scalpel but a medium hard pointed object will work. The aim is to carefully remove the acrylic top coat from the lacquer coat below. There were some areas were it was a matter of mask and repaint, leaving a slight ridge but I shall 5ake to them with some Micromesh. Onto the pictures: I use the stencil instructions and mark off the ones that I have been applied to help me keep track. Probably not really necessary for a WWII build but for some modern jets maybe an idea: Work also continues on the wheels and peripheries which are being weathered as well prior to adding them. Regards,
  4. And I’m spent. For a first effort, I am pretty happy. I can see some touch ups to be done. Learned a few do’s and don’ts but it is all learning. A couple of days and the remainder of the stencils can go on: Regards,
  5. Thanks guys, I have been laid low with a chest infection this past week so no spraying. I have been working on the double chevron masks using old school measurements, angles and Tamiya tape. I photocopied a couple of copies of the decals so I wouldn’t damage them and marked up the double chevrons. It takes a few goes but I think I have one that looks good. Ruling the lines was throwing out the cutting so I went back to putting the points with this nifty ruler that has holes in it. Easier to see the cuts and adjust as needed, not entirely foolproof thought as some additional tape required. Now to replicate it for the other side! Hopefully, I will have more soon. I just need to pick up my lung from the floor! Regards
  6. Progressing with masking the markings. I learned from my P-51 build where I placed the mask outer mask, sprayed the white then covered the white and sprayed the blue left a sort of white halo around the blue. So this time I figured any mask that had a complete one colour outline, like the white of the swastika, could be done in a similar fashion. Placing the outline in the correct position and spraying the entire interior of the mask. Then replacing the internal pieces so they sat right and then weed out the black. At least that was the theory, right? Those boundaries that were multi coloured needed to be done individually. Have I confused you yet? So it was place mask, weed the required section, paint, wait.....wait....replace masking, weed the next section, paint, wait.....wait....extreme wait and then remove. You get the idea: Some touch ups here and there but pretty pleased. The black and white looks very stark but will be toned down. The cold hard glare of the camera shows up all the flaws that the naked eye misses. Double chevrons and bar to go: Oil cooler flaps and flaps added to the wings: Regards
  7. Well no paint but certainly some progress. Plan b with the “double chevrons” swings into motion. I had a friend over and explained the to tall masks. He looked at me, looked at the decals, looked back at me and said, “It’s two parallel arrow heads and you have the decals as a template. Well within your skill set methinks.” Lightbulb moment. Stand by Kenny, there may be a Santa Clause play. The masks have been placed and the areas for the white ‘weeded’ out. I think I still need to adjust the port underside on a little as it is skied. The rest I am happy with but will check using the photos for fidelity : Regards
  8. Various AK washes on the wheel wells, MLG and wheels: Maketar masks in either kabuki or vinyl for the markings. Unfortunately the “double chevron” is too tall to use so it will be back to decals. I have picked out the masks to be used and marked them with a dot: Fuselage masks in place and awaiting the upper/lower wings and swastikas: I hope to get paint on over the weekend. Regards,
  9. Thanks mate, Yes the spinner did come out quite well. I have always been a traditionalist, except when I rebel. Regards,
  10. Many thanks for the support, First decals. Some decals such as the power jack and oxygen fill points will need to go under the painted double chevron markings. So they need to go on and have a clear coat to protect them from the masking: Whilst I was here, I added some decals to the MLG , wheel hubs, flap angle indicators, drop tank and rudder which won’t be affected by masking. I also added the JG 3 badges to the cowling: While I await these to properly dry and the protective coat to set before I add the masked markings, I will busy myself with work on the peripheries such as weathering of the exhaust, wheels etc. Regards,
  11. Great progress and those included details like the bulbs just seal the deal. Well done and thanks for sharing, Regards,
  12. Lacquer gloss coat production line. Some initial wear and tear on the spinner with a fine lead pencil: Next up some stencils and then markings and weathering. Regards,
  13. Thanks matey, Slowly but surely moving forward. Welcome back, I have not been idle whilst absent from the board and have forged ahead. Firstly the wheels have been finished, the tyres painted RLM 66 and awaiting a gloss coat, as has the overall base colour of RLM 76 and the RLM 70 for the propeller blades: I reworked the masking on the spinner to tidy up the swirl using strips of Tamiya curved tape cut to 1mm. The spinner backplate was first painted white and then had a third masked and the remaining two thirds done in RLM 70. The cannon opening had a touch of Tamiya Gun Metal: A couple of days elapsed to allow the RLM 76 to properly dry and I masked the areas for the black on the fuselage and wing seams. The air intake on the port side was left off to make painting easier: Once removed I had the result I wanted: I then could not resist a quick look with the spinner and rudder temporarily attached: Regards,
  14. Great progress matey, Your deft touch with a brush is better than a lot of airbrush finishes I have seen. The weathering on the exhausts and rear damage are top notch. Regards,
  15. Well, well, I may just see your MTO GB and raise you the 1/48 Tamiya Fi 156C-3 from their 100th release kit. A couple of things to clear but my late father always asked me to build it for him. I may even stick a motor in it. Now might be that time!
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