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Tbolt

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Everything posted by Tbolt

  1. Tbolt
    That was just a suggestion to help, though still not accurate, for what you can see it probably doesn't matter that much. I'm currently scratch building floors for my 1/72nd Tamiya kits and wondering how much I will actually see.
  2. Tbolt
    When I say no one else has done the cross tread pattern tyres, I was forgetting about the Print Scale rubber ones. Of course not everyone wants to pay £21 for replacement wheels... https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/PSW48015?result-token=vpRMe
  3. Tbolt
    That might only take 20 minutes, but as you can see from the Aires floor, there was very little in common with the earlier floor. I would suggest removing the round access covers as this is a noticeable feature of the corrugated floor.
  4. Tbolt
    After I contacted MiniArt before the kit was released and they said they weren't going to change the floor, I contacted Eduard and told them about the floor issue and sent them my document. I also asked for some tyres with some other treads, especially the common, cross tread pattern which no one else has done.
  5. Tbolt
    Frrom you are really spoiling us with those 360x182 images 😂 What's this the 90's? Anyway looks promising.
  6. Tbolt
    Yes I believe that is correct, the adjustment knob being just above the outlet. Since you've had questions on this I'll had a bit more info to my guide when I get time.
  7. Tbolt
    That pipe comes from the oxygen bottle, behind the rear cockpit armour bulkhead.
  8. Tbolt
    I'm not sure what you mean the flow regulator is nowhere to be seen? The regulator is the photo on the right hand side of page 4. As for the hose, I haven't found a photo of it installed on the B, but I'm pretty sure it just connects to the fitting just below the flow control, marked 4 on the photo. Below you can see a side view of the regulator.
  9. Tbolt
    Unless I'm missing it, the instrument panel doesn't seem to have the bomb and tank release panel on it or as a separate part. They also seem to have done away with the SCR-522 radio controller on the right cockpit side for some reason.
  10. Tbolt
    We know they were painted YZC at the factory and if you look closely at the left hand lower leg door you can see it's YZC on the lower edge. I wonder if there's either been some repairs and/or the doors have been repainted on the outside and they didn't mask anything so it could be NG/OG. But in the field they probably wouldn't have any YZC for anything that needed repainting. The bay doors are harder to tell from this photo as they could get quite dirty from the waste gate exhaust. Forget the colours on the Hendon P-47 ( pictures here - https://www.flickr.com/photos/124194494@N02/albums/72177720311527976/ ) as it's even got the inside of the cowls painted TZC, which were left unpainted as were the wingtip nav light mountings, which were not painted by that time in production ( giving the aircraft is a D-40 ) but they've painted them TZC. This photo is not particular clear, but it does look like YZC on the bay door.
  11. Tbolt
    Cool! Pictures please, we haven't seen the other fuselage plastic yet 🙂
  12. Tbolt
    Thanks for the heads up on the Advance kit, which I will probably buy when the D-30 boxing appears. Just as a note reference the firewall, as I've seen two reviewer also call it that. The firewall is further back behind the accessory compartment. Where the engine mounts in the kit in reality is a bulkhead with a large hole in the middle where the back of the engine goes through, it would have absolutely no ability to block any fire.
  13. Tbolt
    As Tomas says we are talking about the secondary cowl panel, it's clear if you look at his photos.
  14. Tbolt
    I agree, the slide moulded section is easy enough to clean up. Some people are saying it's going to be a lot of work because they are going to loose detail, but it's a quick easy clean up, unless some are a lot worse, but mine's not bad at all.
  15. Tbolt
    Nothing really wrong with the lower section other than the rivets fading out towards the centerline, which is to be expected when a slide mould isn't used.
  16. Tbolt
    Not sure, I'll have to check. The upper nose section has a raised line which I'm guessing is from the slide mould, right along a panel line. Hopefully it will just trim off with a knife and then be easy to achieve, though the plastic seems quite soft so it needs to be done carefully.
  17. Tbolt
    The 100ml matte varnish bottle says 3rd Gen on it, as do the satin and gloss, but the ultra matt doesn't and it also says new formula. So is the ultra matte an older formula and is it as good as the matte? I also noticed all the 60ml varnish bottles don't say 3rd Gen so are they any different to the 100ml bottles? They also quote the use of a different thinner to what the 3rd Gen matte does. I bought the 100ml matte bottle and like the varnish so I want to add the ultra matte and satin but just want the same quality and the ability to mix them together.
  18. Tbolt
    Yes MiniArt up and moved to Poland a little while back after the war started. Parts like the seat have to be in three parts because of the extra detail MiniArt have added.
  19. Tbolt
    Yes that's all it is. I suspect it was always installed, though I have no period photos to prove that. I suspect MiniArt have seen a museum example without it fitted so that's why it's in the kit. Just like why we've got P-47N wheels in the kit, because three warbirds have them fitted.
  20. Tbolt
    While the actually door might not have been perfectly flush, you have to be carefully doing this on a model, as there are many parts that are not perfectly flush, but if you only replicate one of them it rather stands out, especially in 1/72nd scale. The wing skin should be lapped and not flush so we have a wing which is smoother than it should be, it just looks a bit strange with the doors sticking out, so I will also be sanding them down.
  21. Tbolt
    Its hard to tell too much from the RAF Museums Battle as the doors are a bit all over the place, but it looks to me like they should be flush. In these photos is does appear though that they don't necessarily close perfectly. But it also seems that the doors were in three parts, not two as in the kit. So after sanding them down scribe them correctly. The fabric effect on the ailerons looks way over done as well.
  22. Tbolt
    When I do prime a model I usually use a Mr Color satin, such as C13 Neutral Gray, or a gloss if doing a NMF, but Mr Surfacer 1200 or Mr Primer Surface 1000 would be a good choice. With aqueous acrylic varnishes, I've found with gloss, the more you thin them, the more you lose the gloss finish, so I only use gloss that can be sprayed straight from the bottle, such as Aqua Gloss or AK's Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer. I'm looking for a new satin and matt aqueous varnish, as I've been using the Vallejo ones but I don't like the way the surface stays slightly tacky for a long time after application, causing the finish to pick up many small bits of dust.
  23. Tbolt
    Here's my pictures from Saturday. As always the previous years are in my signature.
  24. Tbolt
    Yes but here we don't have movable elevators, we have one set fixed in the faired position and one in the deflected position. I dont think I've ever seen that before either, but it does simply construction, though whether it's worth doing over positionable ones, I don't know.
  25. Tbolt
    I got hold of a replacement clear sprue and the windscreen is no different unfortunately, 3 cold shuts all in the same place. At least the main canopy doesn't have the black dot in. Maybe the injection pressure they use is too low to get a clear part moulded well.
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