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Tbolt

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Everything posted by Tbolt

  1. No, as long as they have a full set of production drawings, they don't have to scan. But this thread was all about what they scanned.
  2. I got tricked into thinking it can't be any worse than their larger A-6's, but I think it's time I just stopped buying any Trumpeter kits.
  3. They've molded the gear door closed, well actually the panel lines are wrong, so there's nothing even denoting the door. They've just ignored that it exists. How have they managed to get that wrong, after doing Intruders in the larger scales? Looking at this photos of the prototype, it would appear that the forward door originally was closed when the gear was down. Obviously that changed though. Either someone needs to do some bays and doors for the kit or it will be a gear up, in flight model. I really don't want to do the later though, as I bought this so I could have the wings folded. Maybe I'll just scratch build the parts.
  4. So Airfix will scan the A-1 and just put it out as an A-4 then 😂 But since it's being restored and not assembled it's something we can rule out for now. I'd love to see them do a Ju52 in 1/72nd.
  5. Yes I hate that, trying to get it cleaned off while trying to hold it. I've spend a while search the carpet on a few builds🤨
  6. That's why I would like the gate to be on the lens part, that way you could paint and glue the lens in place by holding it with the runner. When dry you then remove the gate and sand and polish it ( I usually sand and polish them anyway ). I realise that wouldn't maybe suit everyone, but if they included both that and the classic style lenses in the kit we would all be happy.
  7. I'm only basing that on the fact that GWH said a while back that they would be doing all their 1/48th scale kits in 172nd scale. If that's the case for the A-10 I don't know, but we are certainly over due one.
  8. That's a fair way to drill as the lenses are a distance from the edge of the clear part. With the Tamiya kit and other kits with separate lenses, once I've painted the lamp, I then paint the appropriate colour for the structure underneath the lens. With the clear tip you can't do this and you will see through to inside the wing, which I thought wouldn't look nice. Though I've never had a kit done like this before, so never tried it.
  9. Looking great, but i'm not sure about the clear wingtips. How can you paint it so the nav light lenses looks realistic? If you just mask them and spray the main colours, won't they look odd?
  10. I was going to wait for the 1/72nd scale version of this, but looking at those photos it's very tempting to get this one 🤤
  11. The upper antenna is normally OD on the D, though some NMF aircraft that were painted look like they were still OD. I believe some of the M's had them repainted when the airframe was painted. As always check the references of the aircraft you are modelling.
  12. I made the case here about colours using that photo among others.
  13. Looking at the HGW sheets, you probably wouldn't be to far wrong if you went tinted zinc chromate for the early aircraft and medium green #42 for the D-21's and later. I'm still unsure about the zinc chromate ( untinted ) on early aircraft, though I did go for it on my D-4.
  14. I think you are missing the point and if you think most modellers think that's what real rivets are like, then I think you are incorrect. Most modellers aren't that stupid. If you build an aircraft with out adding all the detail that the real thing has it doesn't mean you think that your lack of detail in your kit is realistic. It's a model and just a representation of the real thing. I'm sure most modeller would love covering a NMF aircraft in decals to represent rivets 🤣
  15. What block P-47D are you doing? Early razorback? Very early aircraft were possible zinc chromate, which changed to tinted zinc chromate, then it changed to medium green #42. When these changes happened exactly I'm unsure of, but if you tell us what you are modelling I can give you a best guess.
  16. As I've said before, rivets holes are not about a realistic representation of a rivet, but to give the effect that a rivet is there and this is really only the practical way to do it in the smaller scales. Rivet holes can be more important on an unpainted aircraft, but of course they should be very subtle on a painted aircraft. Unfortunately we are in a time where a lot of modellers like their model surface to have a lot more "interest" than the real thing in many cases. It would be nice though if IBG could get the rivets a little finer than on the FW 190D.
  17. Looking at that render, although it's low res, it looks like it's covered in rivet holes to me. I'm with you though and would rather not have them in 1/72nd. Primer and wet and dry at the ready!
  18. The problem there is the M boxing is it's out of production. Tamiya recently released the D with a Jeep, but it would have been nice if they put the M sprue in there as well.
  19. That's what was good about the Tamiya P-47M boxing, you could do any P-47 from the D-25 to the M from it. With this D-30, you can only do a late D-30, D-35. If you source a K-14 gunsight you can also do a D-40. Only with the asymmetric prop though.
  20. You can always do Five by Five in her earlier colour scheme with just yellow on the cowling, without the two other squadrons colors added.
  21. RE aircraft were built at the Farmingdale factory and the RA aircraft were built at the Evansville factory. The D-30 added dive flaps under the wing, which also moved the landing light to near the tip under the left wing. The D-28 moved the bomb release panel from the left side of the cockpit to under the instrument panel. Part way through the D-30 production the dorsal fillet extension was added ( 44-20963 being the first RE aircraft and 43-33199 the first RA aircraft to have it ), though many aircraft, including prior versions had the extension retrofitted. In the D-30 boxing you only get to model an aircraft with the fillet extension fitted. On the D-30 the ring and bead sight was done away with and they added a rear view mirror inside the cockpit. The ailerons were also changed to a blunt nosed design. The props were different from the factory, but they were often changed to another type anyway. Unfortunately MiniArt only include the factory fitted prop in their kits, but if you don't have spares from the Tamiya kit their are aftermarket ones available.
  22. The gun trough covers are made of alclad. The inserts that go directly around the barrel sleeve, the sliding doors, as Republic call them are made of 18/8 stainless steel. The gun sleeves are also stainless steel.
  23. Nice. Recently I gave in an bought the 1/48th HB kit, so of course this would be appearing soon 🤣 Anyway I'll probably get one of these as well.
  24. The ring and bead sight was used from the P-47C all the way to the D-28 and done away with on the D-30 and subsequent versions. Other than the previously mentioned stainless exhaust shroud panels, from the waste gate back to and including the turbo shroud, all the other skin as far as I'm aware is alclad sheet.
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