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Tbolt

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Everything posted by Tbolt

  1. By "racks" do you mean shackles? The shackles fits into the pylon and then there's forward and aft sway braces. The sway braces look present on both aircraft. If you look at this top photo it appears they don't use a standard B-7 shackle, but rather a custom shackle which looks like it fits into the same forward and aft mounting points on the pylon.
  2. Looking very nice. The OD looks a good shade from here.
  3. Yes. The plastic starts to cool slightly before it meets and you get the line. Obviously not a problem in opaque plastic ( unless it's cooled too much and then you can end up with a step or hole in the plastic ).
  4. Depends if you like taking nice photos of your model ๐Ÿ˜‰ Like I said it depends on the angle you look at them, so from some angles they will look fine, others you will see it. Many kits in my stash have some sort of cold shut in the clear parts and most of them I will live with as they hard to see on the finished model. The ones on this kit I'm not so happy with, but I'm going to build it before I buy anymore of them and see.
  5. Here's a couple of photos.You can see there's one shut in either side panel and one in the front panel. They might not look too bad from some angles but if you get the light at the right angle they stand out more. Not easy to get a good photo of though.
  6. Nice. let us know how your canopies are when you get them, especially in the D-30 kit. I got 2 replacements a while ago that were just as bad as the original, with the same three cold shut is the windscreen assembly. Just wondering if they have managed to improve them.
  7. So if you are doing a late 70's or later aircraft you could get away with a GRU-7 if you haven't got photos that show otherwise?
  8. Scribe on? Only if you are doing the aircraft it flight with gear up, so the worst part could be get all the doors to fit in the closed position. But for those of us wanting to have the aircraft on the ground, because of the nice wing fold, you will have to make gear doors and the forward section of the gear bay. Not the hardest thing to do but not really acceptable to have to do in a modern kit.
  9. No, as long as they have a full set of production drawings, they don't have to scan. But this thread was all about what they scanned.
  10. I got tricked into thinking it can't be any worse than their larger A-6's, but I think it's time I just stopped buying any Trumpeter kits.
  11. They've molded the gear door closed, well actually the panel lines are wrong, so there's nothing even denoting the door. They've just ignored that it exists. How have they managed to get that wrong, after doing Intruders in the larger scales? Looking at this photos of the prototype, it would appear that the forward door originally was closed when the gear was down. Obviously that changed though. Either someone needs to do some bays and doors for the kit or it will be a gear up, in flight model. I really don't want to do the later though, as I bought this so I could have the wings folded. Maybe I'll just scratch build the parts.
  12. So Airfix will scan the A-1 and just put it out as an A-4 then ๐Ÿ˜‚ But since it's being restored and not assembled it's something we can rule out for now. I'd love to see them do a Ju52 in 1/72nd.
  13. Yes I hate that, trying to get it cleaned off while trying to hold it. I've spend a while search the carpet on a few builds๐Ÿคจ
  14. That's why I would like the gate to be on the lens part, that way you could paint and glue the lens in place by holding it with the runner. When dry you then remove the gate and sand and polish it ( I usually sand and polish them anyway ). I realise that wouldn't maybe suit everyone, but if they included both that and the classic style lenses in the kit we would all be happy.
  15. I'm only basing that on the fact that GWH said a while back that they would be doing all their 1/48th scale kits in 172nd scale. If that's the case for the A-10 I don't know, but we are certainly over due one.
  16. That's a fair way to drill as the lenses are a distance from the edge of the clear part. With the Tamiya kit and other kits with separate lenses, once I've painted the lamp, I then paint the appropriate colour for the structure underneath the lens. With the clear tip you can't do this and you will see through to inside the wing, which I thought wouldn't look nice. Though I've never had a kit done like this before, so never tried it.
  17. Looking great, but i'm not sure about the clear wingtips. How can you paint it so the nav light lenses looks realistic? If you just mask them and spray the main colours, won't they look odd?
  18. I was going to wait for the 1/72nd scale version of this, but looking at those photos it's very tempting to get this one ๐Ÿคค
  19. The upper antenna is normally OD on the D, though some NMF aircraft that were painted look like they were still OD. I believe some of the M's had them repainted when the airframe was painted. As always check the references of the aircraft you are modelling.
  20. I made the case here about colours using that photo among others.
  21. Looking at the HGW sheets, you probably wouldn't be to far wrong if you went tinted zinc chromate for the early aircraft and medium green #42 for the D-21's and later. I'm still unsure about the zinc chromate ( untinted ) on early aircraft, though I did go for it on my D-4.
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