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Tbolt

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Everything posted by Tbolt

  1. That's what I'm going to do, though I will be using the Vector 'N' wheel wheels and prop and making the other adjustments to the wing myself, a little bit of work be less than trying to bring the Academy kit up to the Tamiya standard. Sergey is doing this himself at the moment.
  2. That's one fine looking 190, amazing stuff. I couldn't make a 1/32 scale kit look that good. What did you use for the wiring looms behind the guns? Looks very realistic.
  3. Well this kit looks more detailed than the Airfix kit, but my money is on the Airfix one being more accurate, but we shall see soon.
  4. Just got mine today. I recently received a £10 off voucher from eBay, so there's no way I could resist this kit for £20.69. Airfix just seem to get better with every release - this looks to be a very impressive kit and I'm really looking forward to their future release.
  5. Very impressive, I don't recall seeing a better hand painted NMF. If you hadn't of said I would have had know idea it was done by hand. But you know you've got to build a Razorback to go with it
  6. I would, since I don't know of an AM one in 1/72 scale, but it shouldn't be too hard, just glue some plastic onto the cuffs or use something like Milliput and sand to shape. The Revell asymmetrical prop is handy because it's the one prop that Tamiya haven't done in 1/72 scale, though I'm surprised Quickboost didn't do one, all they did was copy the props already in the Tamiya kit.
  7. IIRC the Revell kit comes with the asymmetrical prop, which is incorrect for the M, the symmetrical one which comes in the Tamiya kit - parts A11 and A12, is the closest, but the M and N prop used a cuff which was more tapered, being noticeable wider at the base. This is Vectors P-47N prop in 1/48th scale Here's a shot of the standard, almost parallel cuff for comparison.
  8. Everything on the Internet is true Actually I bought my Monochrome Wyvern from Hannants here in the UK.
  9. This is a better quality shot of that aircraft (click to view full size) and you can see the join and the lines of rivets running along it, if you look just behind the prop blade. It's just not going to be that obvious from that angle and the quality of the join may vary. The Mk.XII is looking good, the oil cooler looks fine in that picture.
  10. Yes I didn't mean that it can be removed in two pieces, it is a factory butt join and there are four rows of countersunk rivets running down the middle attaching to a butt strap on the back. One of the pictures you show is a Mk.I and another a Mk.V - complete different cowl on the earlier marks, as you can see this type of cowl is split into three laterally. Being a rivetted butt join, it tends to be a tighter gap than removable panels so often isn't that easy to see, but then neither are the other production butt and lap joins that are 'oversized' on our models! So on my models I make it match the other panel lines for size. Early chin cowl.
  11. Some great work going on here, makes me want to start a Spitfire right now (must finish something first!). Reference your comment about the upper and lower engine cowl's - the lower one is actually in two halves, there should be a panel line running down the centre (not on the intake fairing, that is one piece). Some resin replacements have missed this.
  12. Beautiful looking Spit. Nice work on the colour.
  13. Very nice. Any more pictures? We can't see the undercarriage in those pictures.
  14. I would go for the 150 gallon flat tank, either welded or seam type.
  15. I believe it's the manual crank mechanism for the engine - it lines up with the hole in the cowl.
  16. Never heard of that either. Sounds more like a slang term than a technical one.
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