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splinter

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Everything posted by splinter

  1. Mauricio? Manuel? Hi there! I don't remember your real name anymore, but you can greet your mother back in my name. Talking about stressed skin on MiG-21, I remembered this photo (copyright goes to Tomislav Haraminčić). Well, I'm far away from such effect skill. Mr. Surfacer 500 will be good enough this time. As for Su-27, I have it still somewhere. It's unfinished due to several reasons but it will probably remain as such as I have other priorities. There were several attempts to finish it, but with Hobbyboss mold on the market, it sits on the "shelf of doom". Did you finished yours?
  2. This is leading edge of the vertical tail. I noticed that while the tip (or top) is thin, middle and root sections are transient and thick. I decided to sand 2/3, thus I also had to rebuild panel lines and rivets. Control check after sanding with light shadows. This is very easy way to control progress and final results during sanding. For parachute doors, I used Eduard PE and some lead wire to enhance details. Not much to see here, with Alclad gloss black primer on. Similar shot from different perspective. This is how wide I'll let doors to be open. Finished with ALC-106 White Aluminium, MiG Productions Dark Brown Wash and some acrylic rust spots. Found this 1.5 mm soldering wire in local hardware shop. It will be useful for landing gear bays later. Last thing for today are engine details being painted. By frequent checking of real photos I decided to move Eduard PE part #10 and to give it a new role. Again, these are confusing Eduard instructions. I decided to move this part a bit more aft, at the beginning of tube section, I cut out before. I modified my pliers with a piece of balsa wood, to preserve a slot between jaws. With such pliers I pressed Eduard part #10 over 1.0 mm dia drill bits, held by vice tool. This way I got arc pattern for panels with holes for air cooling. Here is same part after being modified. You can see that thicker, flat panels are left as they are, while air-cooling panels are bent in arc. Paints I used are MrPaint MRP-173 and MRP-104 mixed with MRP-173 in 4:1 ratio. Here is current stage, weathered with pastels. Afterburner ring got Humbrol 27004 Gun Metal, buffed up. And after that I gave some Light Gun Metal powder on front section. I'll add more pastels, once the ring is fixed. Flame stabilizer, first attempt. Too dark weathering. 2nd attempt. Green, dirty and flat coated. Straight exhaust tube section, 1st attempt. Too dark green base with rough surface. Smoothen out to 1500 grid. Current stage, weathered with MRP-173 Rubber Tire. Another angle. Afterburner nozzles with Humbrol 27004. For all three "greenish" engine parts I used same MrPaint mixture (this mixture is close to MRP-131): 12x MRP-32 7x MRP-199 3x MRP-4 For weathering I used overspray of ALC-113 (Jet exhaust) and AK Interactive washes Ak2071 and AK300. For outed side I used Alclad Jet exhaust (with deliberate overspray to inner side) and dry pastels. Front face was weathered with AK086 Dark Steel pigments (also visibile on photos above). That's all for now.
  3. Currently, I'm more focused on painting APA starter. And just the other days my quick release coupling fell apart. But, with some trials and errors I managed to move forward on MiG, as well. Today, I'll talk more about vertical tail, parachute and parachute housing, VOR antennas and engine painting. First, rear fuselage has been smoothed out. A 1 mm styrene plug inserted next to rear air brake housing. As said before, molds are worn out, so you need to get used to "gaps" and "slots" like these, and fix them. In this case you have to line-up panel lines between vertical and rear fuselage. So I shorten pins for vertical tail. This is better. New VOR/ILS antennas scratchbuild for UMD standard from 0.25 mm styrene and 1.0 mm styrene rod. To create a replica of MiG parachute, I took S-24 rocket from Eduard's 1/48 MiG-21 mold ( I have a few leftovers), cut the middle section (20 mm length, 5 mm diameter) and wrap it with clear kitchen foil. Wood glue is used as a filling. For straps I used narrow JammyDog masking tape - this one is 0.5 mm. Straps are not tight, so glue can be moved between sections. This way I got real 3D texture. For big strap I used waxed cord (0.5 mm), used for DIY jewelry and lead wire 0.2 mm. Waxed cord also has a smooth surface, but with preserved cord texture. Painted with Ammo MiG 4BO surface primer. Note that straps were not painted. Due to worn-out mold, many details are soft. Here I just sanded some plastic flat, to get sharp edge.
  4. I had to add 0.25 mm strip under middle/front fuselage (parts E21/E29), to get smooth transition to rear fuselage. Now, I have this slot, but that's much better option than to have a radial step, around the fuselage. Not all parts survived transport. Sink marks Soft details on engine. I will not use these parts. Dryfit with middle/front duselage: engine starts just aft of main undercarriage. Here is a ring on inner side of rear fuselage. Nothing will be visible before this ring. Engine fit with exhaust end (part G7). Notice the thickness of this part (trailing edge). Some 90-95% of length. New deflector under the parachute housing being made from copper plate. Not that is has to be bend upwards. Slightly. Rear engine tubing - joint has been smoothen out. There was a step between rear fuselage and exhaust end. I started with heavy sanding. Trailing edge on exhaust end ring being thinned. Coarse sanding. Fine sanding.
  5. Back to Mongol. I started with the engine. First thing is that I noticed that the engine sprue is not marked as MF or UM. Main reason for this remark is that the flame stabilizer is neither from R-25 nor R-13 engine, but somewhere in between. And this are definitely afterburner nozzles from Chinese copy of MiG-21 engine (called WP-7 or similar). Next to it are Icaerodesign nozzles, which are very good shaped. They look to me as scaled up copy of Eduard's Brassin set for 1/48 scale MiG-21 engine. Also, there is no afterburner control ring, as in Icaerodesign set. As Trumpeter provided engine in 4 parts + Eduard PE + Icaerodesign resin... I had to figure out what is useful at all. First, I chamfered rear end of flame stabilizer so I can move it forward turbine a few milimeters (will need that space in a few moments) 2nd, there is some kind of step coming after the flame stabilizer (middle and up quarters on the photo below), so I flushed both sides and removed the ring at the rear end (bottom 1/4 of the engine). Flame stabilizer being chamfered. Eduards PE part #10, only useful part from PE fret for the engine. Looking at the photos and measuring the diameter on the Trump parts --> only logical position for it would be just aft of the flame stabilizer. This is why I had to move the stabilizer forward. To make all those nasty pin marks and 1/4 joints disappear, I cut a single piece of 0.25 mm styrene, and bent it with scissors. Here you can also see Eduard PE #10 from photo above. On top of that come afterburner nozzles. Good fit, and lucky that those 1/4 joints will not be visible, once the engine is inside the fuselage. After glueing all engine "quarters", I made a radial cut, to gain access to flame stabilizer and to be able to paint central part of the engine from inside. Here is Eduard PE #10 in front of flame stabilizer, after the cut. You can see that one link is missing. I'll add thin aluminium plate here later on. Flame stabilizer being modified - mid phase. And final result. It's still not as on R13 engine, but it's close enough. Behind the flame stabilizer I also added black styrene, to be used as visual barrier and inner structure support. Exhaust end after cut, with styrene tubing (flushed with Mr. Surfacer 500), and resin afterburner. Dryfit with middle section - can't focus on flame stabilizer, sorry. That's all for tonight. Tomislav
  6. I really don't know if any of our Homeland war books has been translated to English. I made 1/48 Osvetnik Vukovara with their decals a few years back. Decals behaved very good. Good print quality, thin foil, minimal clear edge, good glue, no bubbles ...
  7. Hi Antoine! It's not a new brand. It seems more like being closed down. http://www.ze-ro-decals.com/
  8. This will be a part of a diorama on a larger scale. I started my APA-5D in 1/35 scale about a year ago, and as comes to painting phase now, I decided to "stretch" it a bit. With MiG-21UMD in 1:32. This is a layout sketch cca. 55 x 40 cm. A is MiG-21UMD, bort no. 165 from Croatian Air Force, after overhaul in 2014. It's our solo display MiG, with red-white livery, called "little cube" or locally "Kockica". Or "flying ILS house", as some call it. B is APA-5D airfield starter, also from Croatian Air Force, currently in painting phase (below). Above is my first APA-5D, finished as example from Voronezh Air Base, Russia, here only for illustrative purposes. Whole WIP for starter is here: C should be a spotter figure from ReedOak. I just cleaned up the figure - removed support struts from 3D printing. All three together should be a nice airshow diorama or vignette. MiG-21 will be on asphalt and spotter and URAL on a grass, next to MiG. Note that display MiG is getting dirty with time, but it's also being freshly repainted, often than any other MiG in Croatian inventory. On the other side, this particular APA starter is more than 20 years old, never overhauled or re-painted, full of rust, paint chipping, etc... A big contrast to MiG on diorama base, for sure. OK, back to MiG. My shopping list. Single available Mongol kit in 1:32. Old mold, crude plastic, full of sink marks and pins.... Eduard PE for MF exterior. I know it's MF, but since there is no PE for UM, some parts can be upgrades with this set as well. Kuvalainen PE for Finnish Mongol cockpit. Finnish Mongols have different arrangement for instrument panels, but I think this could be useful. Eduard masks. Saved me a lot of time for single-seaters in 1:48. Icaerodesign upgrade for MiG-21MF engine - both MF and UM share R-13-300 engine. Begemot stencils. Mostly in Russian. We have mostly translated stencils to Croatian and they should be black for display MiG. For now I'll leave them. Ze-Ro Decals for Croatian UM, but from 90's livery. Both Croatian roundel and national coat of arms are 10-15% smaller than they should be for display MiG after overhaul in 2014. No bort number provided as decal. These were last two examples, I found on web. Master pitot tubes and static dischargers. Quickboost resins for MF, again useful for UM, as well. HAD wheels. HAD ground crew accessories. HAD ejection seats and control sticks. OK, that's all for now. Stay tuned.
  9. OK, here are few more photos. This will be last update prior painting. Rotating arms - final assembly Cabin interior: seam lines on the seats were removed and upgraded with lead wire 0.2 mm.Ribbed carpets were made with thin aluminium. Driver's carpet was cut in for gas pedal. 2nd auxiliary gearbox handle was added from spares (there should be two, Trump messed up again). I also added another handle next to the steering wheel and a air heater in front of main gearbox handle, to keep that front wall busy. Generator console was scratchbuilt with styrene and 0.6 mm lead wire. Only front PE is from HAD conversion set. How to make roof cover? Enhance edges with pencil, place masking tape on top and repeat lines. Remove masking tape and place it on 0.1 mm copper plate. Cut along lines. Same process done for rear wall cover. I also added roof light. Here you can also see incorrect dryfit for passenger's seat. This is as per Trumpeter instructions: lower seat is far forward compared to floor and there is a big gap to the backrest, which is positioned vertically. Looking at reference photos, I removed front edge on the cabin floor... ... and I added copper strips to the rear, so I can incline backrest. Here is corrected passenger's seat. Lower part is moved back and backrest is inclined. Backrest is on top and not next to lower seat part. Sun shields made from 0.6 copper wire and 0.5 mm styrene ... One small exterior cabin detail added... This panel is again different from Hungarian/Russian starters. Comparison to real thing.... Windscreen wipers ... Trumpeter gives you plastic ones, which are hard to position correctly on windscreen. I started with Voyager PE, and steadily upgraded them ... Shot at strange angles because of gravity. Last detail: interior door cover ... Trump gives you bare metal interior, but Croatian starters have cushioned covers. Not much to see now with bare white styrene. I decided to go with both doors opened. Next thing are priming, painting and final assembly. I'll use HEMMT cabin for paint testing: Mr. Paint, rusting, weathering....
  10. Last thing for today are door windows. Trumpeter gives you one piece windows, while in reality it's two - one smaller triangle-shaped and one larger. My first attempt was with 0.5 mm clear styrene (right side). Later, I used 0.25 mm styrene for smaller triangle window. Here is comparison between Trumpeter URAL4320 mirrors and KAMAZ 4310 mirrors from ICM. Acc. to reference photos I needed bigger KAMAZ mirrors. Comparison to real one. And my favorite photo so far - notice how ground crew "hooks" port door with mirror. That's all for this time. Now it's your turn for C&C.
  11. Next were smaller hooks, which are more like orifices on top of the rotating arms. Smaller diameter power cables are pulled thru them. I used PE fret given by HAD on my first APA, but as said before this time I'll make new ones, from brass. Main reason for DIY orifices is my wish to pull TWO power cables with bigger diameter thru lower orifice and THREE power cables with smaller diameter thru upper orifice. My first APA-5D has only ONE bigger and ONE smaller diameter cables per each rotating arm. Here is squared lower orifice, as given by HAD. Too small. 0,1 mm brass plate for DIY projects. Cut brass strip with marked sections for each orifice. On the left is original HAD upper orifice, while all other are mine. It's hard to create an arc from HAD parts. Here are upper and lower orifice joined together. Three power cables (ex SCART cable wires) with small diameter are pushed thru upper orifice. All orifices in position and lower are glued to rotating arms. Two power cables with bigger diameter (ex earphones) are positioned for fit. Styrene strip is used to allow small gap between cables and orifices. One of the most fragile resin parts for rotating arms (HAD parts A,B,C). Had to fix them with 0,25 mm styrene and CA glue. Here is another idea from me: I want to re-create mechanism to unlock rotating arms via steel wire and rotating wheel in upper corner of each arm (HAD parts F,G,H). Specifically, here is a test with 0.3 mm red copper wire to test parallel to base of the rotating arm.
  12. Full testfit. Air intake for cabin air in extended position - also made from Voyager PE (just in front of the front cabin windows). Rear chassis also got base PE parts for lights. This is from SKP PE set for URAL4320 - this set was fresh from the factory when I got it in Bratislava last December. Here is a detail from that SKP set for URAL 4320. Here I test if one of front headlights could be used for rear position light on starter. I would highly recommend this set to anyone because it's hard to replicate such level of details with own hands.
  13. This is PE fret from HAD for "cable hooks" as I call them. My first APA-5D was made with these parts, but for this APA truck I will use just bigger (on the right side), while for smaller (on the left) I will create new from 0,1 mm brass plate It's a bit hard to explain but if you compare parts 31 and 33 from photo above, you may notice that 33 has longer flanks. In reality I didn't notice different flank length, so I shorten them to look same as part 31. Next, HAD suggest to use styrene bar with dia 1mm and to glue PE parts 31-33 to it. I did it on previous APA, but noticed that heavy power cables makes such joints fragile. This time I soldered PE hooks 31-33 to brass wire. I had my mojo to create special device to insure vertical joints. And parallel as well. With parallel joints I already had problems with heat transfer - while soldering upper joint, lower melted. To insure stable joint to the base of rotating arms, I used two-component metal glue. This glue is very liquid during first hour (with 24h total drying time) so I had to think again how to restrict all degrees of freedom during drying. There are some mistakes that HAD has in this conversion set like this last upper hook, which I had to re-create. Glass is used to ensure leveled position, while drill bit gives parallel and equal distance between side strips. First test with assembled cable hooks on rotating arms.
  14. It's been a while since my last post, so let's see what I have been doing for the past 5 months. First idea with muffler was to bend styrene bars in hot water. It was a bit difficult to get right curvature. So, I turned to altered power cable, better to say I removed zillion copper wires inside and placed only one, which I could bend as needed (blue). If I didn't say it before - I'll say it now - the muffler is worst part on Trumpeter URAL chassis, actually the only thing I miss from old Omega-K, Revell, ICM ... casting. Battery casing made with Trumpeter parts. In the meantime I exchanged with with Voyager PE. Some more Voyager PE details. I also started changing rims - seems like 3-4 rims are missing parts like valve covers. Muffler, front bumper, fuel tank and reserve wheel carrier ready for painting. If you look closely to initial reference photos, you may see additional front mudguards, which are different on each side. This detail is not URAL factory original. Front wheels have parts which define steering angle. This is angle which I want to fix for final assembly.
  15. Stairs compared to real one. To be noted: they are positioned at angle! This is why it was hard to make them All parts together (still without muffler and battery) and some close-ups
  16. On the upper side I added a small frame from styrene strips and started glueing pieces of venner. Front parts is finished, just to be cut according measurement. Bottom side with all parts dryfitted. Finally, new decals for Nikolai Bokiy Red 11 arrived. Size comparison with GAZ-3302 (1:43) and early production KrAZ-260 (1:43) That's all for this update.
  17. Seems like this one got a lot of views since last update. All right. Let me show you there were some progress, too. First cut after the step on the trailer - epoxy was not mixed in equal quantities, so it didn't become hard after 24 hours. I needed a quick fix, since parts are heavy, and connection could crack. So this time I took some steel rods and mixed epoxy glue again. I also needed one more cut-in to even the trailer somewhere in the middle (after the step) And one more unplanned cut just in front of the step, since testing showed that mold was made tilted. Rear wings on the Volvo were also cut or better to say, top cover was removed and mudguards were added. Next thing was that I started with building the frame for wheels, axles, suspension... I also made some other details, specific for truck trailers. I also made rear lights, but I'm not happy with them. Main frame part, with axles, air suspension links and vacuformed mudguards. Front side. Bare underside, ready for painting. I tried to use existing holes, as much as possible, otherwise they were filled. Where needed, I drilled new holes.
  18. I added few extra details to the starter like various supports. Next was tiny but important detail. Ural logo on starboard fender. This is Trumpeters mistake on original mold, but Voyager gives three pieces in their PE set. You can see on the photo above some extruded detail, above the false logo. Those supposed to be handles. Trumpeter casted those handles on fenders and gave them as PE parts for front mask. I decided to remove all casted handles and to replace them with 0.4 mm wire, as well as those on front mask. I also started removing details, specific for BM-21 launcher. I also added missing handle on cabin inner side. Front mask and hood will not be glued until very end so that I can mount the cabin with fenders glued around the engine. Carrier for spare wheel is assembled. Nothing special to add. I also replaced fuel tank cap, with more sophisticated according the one I have for ICM Kamaz truck. I also replaced fuel tank frame holder with PE from Voyager. This way I got 0.5 mm extra for stairs, between the fuel tank and the mudguard. Not much, but enough. Finally, the stairs! A nightmare to reproduce them correctly. I needed several attempts. During assembly I glued them to a piece of glass with CA glue. This way I have total control despite it's very fragile. I also thinned inner part of port doors. I would like to recreate that very moment held by camera when the ground crew member hooked port door with help of mirror (see reference photo on first post). It will be tricky to lower the window, but I think that Trumpeter made complete cabin and doors in a way that it's very grateful to leave door(s) open. That's all for now. Keep those comments coming. I think it's worth it. Thanks.
  19. Carriers for rotating arms were rebuild with help of original HAD parts, spare parts and Master Club resin bolting. For first APA I didn't had PE bender and it was a nightmare to bend those rotating arms. Now it's a peace of cake. Next dryfit. Making some mess, as usual. I added patterned plate on walkways. Two more reasons to make walkways from scratch (beyond bigger tires)... is that Croatian APA don't have 12-ASA-15 baterries, side-mounted on the starter (HAD part no.6 below) and the walkway pattern is not rhomb, but dotted (as seen above). Walkways were made from North Star plates. I will use them for stairs later, too. On the close-ups above you can see small handles I made from 0.3 mm wire. I also scratched rear starter panel (HAD part 25) because original was wrapped up. ... as well as side skirts (HAD part 16). They had bigger curvature radius than needed and one was broken. I took Italeri HEMTT and had some fun. It looks quite convincing.
  20. Dryfit with borrowed cabin. Next big step was to move 2nd and 3rd axle backwards 4-5 mm. This way chassis can accommodate rear mudguards in correct position, compared to fuel tank and stairs on the port side (please see reference photo in 1st post). This was done by 3 cuts, two aft of axle joint to chassis, to remove 4 mm plastic, and one in front of this joint, where those 4 mm "plugs" were glued back. This is chassis frame after the cuts. I also had to add 4 mm to middle shaft. Next thing, I noticed that BM-21 doesn't have a tank for air brakes (parts F16, F17) This tank is important because rear starboard mudguard needs to be cut in. I took FAB bomb from Eduard MiG-21, to recreate this tank. On the photo above, you can see scratchbuilt walkway and mudguards. 0.2 mm copper plate was used for mudguards and 0.25 mm styrene for walkway.
  21. First thing to do with HAD conversion set is to check it's condition. There are two big resin blocks and a lot of small resin parts. All of them are free movable inside the box. This is why many small parts can be found broken. I took empty box and secure small resin parts with Patafix. Medium parts were removed from casting blocks And big parts were hollowed to remove excess weight. Before, after and somewhere in between. As said before, there are parts which shrunk during casting, were bent, or broken in transport. You never know what you gonna get. Before sanding. After the sanding. Next step is chassis assembly. But, first I compared BM-21 instructions with my old ones, from ordinary Ural 4320. Trumpeter did realize there are errors. Or not? For engine belts I used 0.3 mm styrene rods. Trumpeter provided PE belts - they are way too long. Front bumper was enhanced with 0.25 mm styrene and resin bolting from Master Club. As said before, tires were taken from Trumpeter HEMTT. They are almost perfect for Ural rims. I just added 0.25 mm styrene strips all around rims. Also to be noted: they are bigger than Urals OI-25. And because of this, I need to scratch rear mudguards and walkways. All tires were sanded. Note that there is no spare wheel, only carrier for spare wheel is needed. Old Italeri/Revell HEMTT has plastic tired which are similar to Semperit pattern. But to adapt them to Ural rims would be a big headache. For front axle rims I added styrene between outer and inner side.This way they are still free rotating (steering). All rims were joined with self-adhesive aluminium tape. This tape has strong glue, but rims remain detachable. Part A12 (front buffer) was cut (upper ring). This way it's easily detachable from chassis frame, but still has supporting function. Part C39 (support for cabin) has been strengthen with 1 mm styrene, because it's very thin. Chassis assembly is finished. Muffler will be added at later stage, when stairs for the starter are ready. Most parts are glued to big blocks, so they can still be disassembled and painted. Blocks are dryfitted with Patafix. Here is chassis with starter main block, compared with finished APA and another Ural 4320 with Natashka tires from Miniarm, which is not ... hmmm... finished yet.
  22. Hi everyone, It's been a while since my last post on Britmodeller, so I'll to make it up to you. This time it's APA-5D, Soviet airfield starter on Ural 4320 chassis. I made my first APA a few years back and it was a lot of fun for 8 months to build and paint 600+ parts. Back then I started with Omega-K/ICM/Revell URAL4320, with Eduard PE, but finished with fresh moulded Trumpeter. There was too many errors in the casting and I decided to take another shot with Trumpeter instead. I gave my 2nd conversion set from HAD Models to a fellow modeler who cannot afford it. A few months back I started with 3rd set, and this is my current project. This is APA-5D from Croatian Air Force, during CIAV 2016 airshow, held in Varazdin. There are a few things to clear up, prior further reading: 1. HAD Models covers APA model as used in Hungary, Poland, USSR/Russia. Here in Croatia we have a slightly different APA, and I will scratch build those details. This set is OOP for a long time. 2. This particular APA-5D is normally based at 91st Air Force Base, Pleso, but it was transferred to Varazdin for airshow, because our solo display MiG-21UMD stayed overnight there. Back in the 90's we had 92nd AFB stationed in Pula, but it was closed and all equipment and vehicles were moved to Pleso. This is why it's still written "92 ZB" on the port door. 3. Note that port cables are wrapped in fire hose. This is normal, since port side is frequently used for MiGs. I'll try to recreate fire hose with satin ribbon. 4. Front and middle axles use Michelin XZL tires, while Semperit Gigant Steel tires are on rear axle. No Ruskiis. Croatia got armored vehicles as a donation from US a few years back (M-ATV, MRAP....). This is where Michelin tires came from. 5. If you google Pula, Croatia you will notice it's on the coastline. And while other APA trucks are well preserved despite their age, this one got a full hit from sun, rain, wind and salt. So, no weathering is too much for this APA: faded colors, paint chipping, and rust. A lot of rust. Since my local hobby shop just started to import Trumpeter, the only URAL they have is late BM-21. There are a few things I'm missing from ordinary URAL casting, yet muffler should be better, for example. HEMTT is donor for Michelin tires, but it's already reserved for another modeler. I shall also use some parts from Voyager PE set and blackout headlights from Northstar.
  23. I have another question for Kotey, regarding upcoming Begemot decal sheet for "Standard Foxhound" ... Will you include Navy MiG-31 from Elizovo AB ? Those are quite old birds (DZ and so on...) and heavy weathered... I haven't seen anyone producing this "MA VMF ROSSII" sign in any scale ... http://russianplanes.net/id183810 http://russianplanes.net/id157096 http://russianplanes.net/id150716
  24. To glue diecast parts back, I'm using this Epoxy 2-component glue with metal particles from Bison. It creates a strong bond within 24 hours it's stone hard and this epoxy can be easily sanded to desired shape or thickness. It's also very good to glue styrene and plastic parts to diecast. Only downside is grey color and its thickness. For assembly of painted parts I would like to use some clear glue which is more fluid. Any ideas? Test rig for glueing process. I'm using a piece of glass on a glass table to have perfectly flat surface for leveling, and ratchet clamps to remove any freedom of motion or rotation. I assembled Volvo back for a dryfit test with the new trailer. The biggest part fro black trailer is bent in arc, which I noticed after taking this photo. Also, first two trailers parts (with forward step) are glued banked to the next orange part. I decided to fix all of this, so I broke two joints and I'm glueing them back again, as I write this. This is a comparison to original photo. Looks promising, but still I want to correct those mistakes. http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx57/supergru/Red11/128629_2.jpg
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