Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

148 Excellent

About splinter

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 09/26/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Modern airliners 1/72 1/144 and modern jets 1/72 & 1/48

Recent Profile Visitors

2,256 profile views
  1. Mauricio? Manuel? Hi there! I don't remember your real name anymore, but you can greet your mother back in my name. Talking about stressed skin on MiG-21, I remembered this photo (copyright goes to Tomislav Haraminčić). Well, I'm far away from such effect skill. Mr. Surfacer 500 will be good enough this time. As for Su-27, I have it still somewhere. It's unfinished due to several reasons but it will probably remain as such as I have other priorities. There were several attempts to finish it, but with Hobbyboss mold on the market, it sits on the "sh
  2. This is leading edge of the vertical tail. I noticed that while the tip (or top) is thin, middle and root sections are transient and thick. I decided to sand 2/3, thus I also had to rebuild panel lines and rivets. Control check after sanding with light shadows. This is very easy way to control progress and final results during sanding. For parachute doors, I used Eduard PE and some lead wire to enhance details. Not much to see here, with Alclad gloss black primer on. Similar shot from dif
  3. Currently, I'm more focused on painting APA starter. And just the other days my quick release coupling fell apart. But, with some trials and errors I managed to move forward on MiG, as well. Today, I'll talk more about vertical tail, parachute and parachute housing, VOR antennas and engine painting. First, rear fuselage has been smoothed out. A 1 mm styrene plug inserted next to rear air brake housing. As said before, molds are worn out, so you need to get used to "gaps" and "slots" like these, and fix them.
  4. I had to add 0.25 mm strip under middle/front fuselage (parts E21/E29), to get smooth transition to rear fuselage. Now, I have this slot, but that's much better option than to have a radial step, around the fuselage. Not all parts survived transport. Sink marks Soft details on engine. I will not use these parts. Dryfit with middle/front duselage: engine starts just aft of main undercarriage. Here is a ring on i
  5. Back to Mongol. I started with the engine. First thing is that I noticed that the engine sprue is not marked as MF or UM. Main reason for this remark is that the flame stabilizer is neither from R-25 nor R-13 engine, but somewhere in between. And this are definitely afterburner nozzles from Chinese copy of MiG-21 engine (called WP-7 or similar). Next to it are Icaerodesign nozzles, which are very good shaped. They look to me as scaled up copy of Eduard's Brassin set for 1/48 scale MiG-21 engine. Also, there is no afterburn
  6. I really don't know if any of our Homeland war books has been translated to English. I made 1/48 Osvetnik Vukovara with their decals a few years back. Decals behaved very good. Good print quality, thin foil, minimal clear edge, good glue, no bubbles ...
  7. Hi Antoine! It's not a new brand. It seems more like being closed down. http://www.ze-ro-decals.com/
  8. This will be a part of a diorama on a larger scale. I started my APA-5D in 1/35 scale about a year ago, and as comes to painting phase now, I decided to "stretch" it a bit. With MiG-21UMD in 1:32. This is a layout sketch cca. 55 x 40 cm. A is MiG-21UMD, bort no. 165 from Croatian Air Force, after overhaul in 2014. It's our solo display MiG, with red-white livery, called "little cube" or locally "Kockica". Or "flying ILS house", as some call it. B is APA-5D airfield starter, also from Croatian Air Force, currently in painti
  9. OK, here are few more photos. This will be last update prior painting. Rotating arms - final assembly Cabin interior: seam lines on the seats were removed and upgraded with lead wire 0.2 mm.Ribbed carpets were made with thin aluminium. Driver's carpet was cut in for gas pedal. 2nd auxiliary gearbox handle was added from spares (there should be two, Trump messed up again). I also added another handle next to the steering wheel and a air heater in front of main gearbox handle, to keep that front wall busy. Generator console was scratchbuilt with st
  10. Last thing for today are door windows. Trumpeter gives you one piece windows, while in reality it's two - one smaller triangle-shaped and one larger. My first attempt was with 0.5 mm clear styrene (right side). Later, I used 0.25 mm styrene for smaller triangle window. Here is comparison between Trumpeter URAL4320 mirrors and KAMAZ 4310 mirrors from ICM. Acc. to reference photos I needed bigger KAMAZ mirrors. Comparison to real one. And my favorite photo so far -
  11. Next were smaller hooks, which are more like orifices on top of the rotating arms. Smaller diameter power cables are pulled thru them. I used PE fret given by HAD on my first APA, but as said before this time I'll make new ones, from brass. Main reason for DIY orifices is my wish to pull TWO power cables with bigger diameter thru lower orifice and THREE power cables with smaller diameter thru upper orifice. My first APA-5D has only ONE bigger and ONE smaller diameter cables per each rotating arm. Here is squared lower orifice, as given by HAD. Too small
  12. Full testfit. Air intake for cabin air in extended position - also made from Voyager PE (just in front of the front cabin windows). Rear chassis also got base PE parts for lights. This is from SKP PE set for URAL4320 - this set was fresh from the factory when I got it in Bratislava last December. Here is a detail from that SKP set for URAL 4320. Here I test if one of front headlights could be used for rear position light on starter. I would highly recommend
  13. This is PE fret from HAD for "cable hooks" as I call them. My first APA-5D was made with these parts, but for this APA truck I will use just bigger (on the right side), while for smaller (on the left) I will create new from 0,1 mm brass plate It's a bit hard to explain but if you compare parts 31 and 33 from photo above, you may notice that 33 has longer flanks. In reality I didn't notice different flank length, so I shorten them to look same as part 31. Next, HAD suggest to use styrene bar with dia 1mm and to glue PE parts 31-33 to it. I di
  14. It's been a while since my last post, so let's see what I have been doing for the past 5 months. First idea with muffler was to bend styrene bars in hot water. It was a bit difficult to get right curvature. So, I turned to altered power cable, better to say I removed zillion copper wires inside and placed only one, which I could bend as needed (blue). If I didn't say it before - I'll say it now - the muffler is worst part on Trumpeter URAL chassis, actually the only thing I miss from old Omega-K, Revell, ICM ... casting.
  • Create New...