stalal

I have tried painting small chips and scratches that tend to show the underneath metallic paint. Every time i do it, it looks painted on and not natural. I have used techniques like a) painting the kit in silver, sealing it and scrubbing off the paint to expose the metal and using masking fluid. Always got satisfactory results but i still need to know how to do more detailed metal chip effect. Any help will be appreciated.

amazing!! you inspired me big time.

I m no expert on Sea King. In fact this is my first helicopter kit in over 12 years. Do you guys think that after making so many changes to the kit, Hasegawa might still have overlooked some? See the modifications in pink on the link below http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/09.12/09863/09863.htm

Thanks wafu for your insights. So Jennings! what other body modifications do i need to do if i want to make it a proper Westland bird. This is ths problem with Hasegawa kits. they cut corners in details and are big on prices.

Yes that the kit i have and the side door from inside is clearly marked to cut the hole out but the door from outside is intact. So i m thinking there could be another version that can be built out of the box.

So that i have taken the plunge and bought the rather expensive Hasegawa kit, I want to know which versions can i model out of the box if i choose not to attach the Searchwater radar? What other modifications will I need? I say this because in the stowed position, the cover of the radar is deflated and the kit does not provide that option. I dont want to buy aftermarket stuff as my budget is already low after paying a hefty price.

Air Doc sheet is to me the best reference. But even after that, its a pain to match modern Luftwaffe colors. http://www.shopofphantoms.com/rhino/Pulsar...dm-48001_-32001 I have a pdf of the Air Doc sheet on the link above. PM me with your email address and i will be happy to send it over to you.

Looking at the following link, it seems the cockpit detail is too sketchy. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10098638z/70/1 Its disappointing with Hasegawa kits. To begin with, the price is so high that it does not leave any budget for after market. What you get in the box is too basic a kit to demand such a price. I still want to build it as i have never built a helicopter model.

Have been able to remove the seam line on the 32 scale F16. Used nail filer, sanding papers and Tamiya fine polishing agent. That was easy!

i m looking to buy this kit. The thing that stopped me was the price. For those who have this kit, is it worthwhile getting it? I usually make kits out of the box. From the review, it looks like it will be waste of money. What is your opinion? Thanks Sohaib

Can we get Acrobat format instruction manual for this kit like we did for Spitfire before it was released? I think for Spitfire it was a link on Tamiya's Japanese website.

Look for Aero Detail Zero book. You can download it here http://www.freebookspot.cc/Comments.aspx?Element_ID=24054 Its an excellent resource on all series of Zero fighters. I know as I m currently building A6M5 in 1/32. Hope it helps.

Did you make the seat belts yourself? Great build. The most unfortunate part is that most of the cockpit is hidden once assembled.

Which colors (brand and shades) have you used for this? Looks Fantastic. Great job.

Now that they have done a British and American WWII subject, the next one should logically be German. I would love to see Fw190 or Bf109 from them. There are 32 scale kits available for both of these Luftwaffe planes, but I want to see them from Tamiya.

Now that Tamiya has released a Spitfire with E wing, which sprue will i need to order separately from XVIe kit to convert my unbuilt IXc to IXe? Thanks Sohaib.

Where can i buy Pheon Models decals?

'To get a good result on your first go just use EZ line'. What is that?!! I do have good experience of building WWII armor, airplanes and modern stuff so the Ninak kit itself should not be a problem. But it is the rigging that scares me, be it Pup or Ninak or any other kit. I will take your advice and start with the easier one.

I m planning to buy Wingnut Wings Ninak and i m dreading it. I have never built a WWI model and the only one i built was Airfix 1/72 Avro 504k and it was a disaster. I had problems in aligning the wings and also attaching the spindly struts in between them. Now the rigging scares me even more. But i still want to take a plunge. Any idea of how the Wingnut Wings kits are and do you share the same fears as i have and what would you do to allay those fears? Many Thanks

for the lighter shading on the top side, i have sprayed the same color as the weapons but at a very low pressure. Do it randomly to have a realistic effect. i dont have the skills to remove that, unfortunately. but im going to start its 1/32 sibling and it has the same problem. So i guess i need to find first the confidence and then the skill to remove the seam.

Sorry to be off topic. 1. Is UK retiring all Harriers or just a few squadrons? 2. Which aircraft will be Harrier's replacement?

Can i still use a decal solvent to do this or i will need to buy Klear? I did not know if i could fix the silvering issue.

Its all around the intake that you must be aware. otherwise the kit is just great. A lot of people would tell you of sink marks here or there. But that is not even an issue because most of the sink marks are invisible by the time those parts are put together. The part C9 has sink marks on one side (or both sides?) which i think you must fill in and sand. I did not do this time but in the next CJ kit, i m going to do that. Around the intake. 1. When you are putting together parts H4 & H10, make sure they fit snugly in the space provided in lower section of the fuselage. 2. The parts H11 and H8 leave a gap in the fit which needs to be filled and sanded. Hope this helps.

that is because i have very little display space and for storage, i did not glue the tailplane in. This kit provides this option

you are absolutely right. WW decal should not have been off the horizontal. i realized this when the decal had already settled.