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robvulcan

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Everything posted by robvulcan

  1. They are short run kits so you expect a bit more building but I’m happy with that and it goes together well better than many kits I’ve built. The etch parts can be overcome quite easily with some tools. Then my idea of a good kit the old school one where you have parts and your challenge is to fit them. But sometimes it’s nice to build a fall together kit. the Landing gear however is waaaaaay to complicated for the scale in the parts breakdown. A white metal version on offer from someone would be very welcome indeed ! Cheers Rob
  2. Update time again. The masks are wonderful but take a lot of focus to see if your on target. With all the curves and reflections and tiny size I hope I got it right and I hope they work. If they don’t in future I’ll just paint the windows as they nearly always appear black anyways. But if they do work could look very nice. If they had survived a little longer this ain’t far off what they would look like. Cheers Rob
  3. I have started takling the etch which I won’t be using .. well not as intended. for me these are templates and I’ve attached them to plasticard with photo mount and then cut out filed to shape. Then cleaned up and removed the etch with lighter fluid then glued to the mode in the usual way. I also made up the bottom ones with plastic strip in a bid to correct them. Also the whole in the wing tip and the rear tail was reuilt with bits of sprue glued and filed into shape which was easier than using milliput which didn’t want to stick to this plastic for some reason. Must have been a bit of mold release as it stuck inside. Either way better off being plastic that matches. at the moment it’s sitting in corgi gear as I fight the kits undercarriage which is extremely complicated for this scale to a ridiculous extreme in my opinion. I think this scale has its limitations and there is no rules in shying away from leaving certain elements off which I will likely be doing as 1. It’s not needed or will effect the overall look. 2. Sometimes I find smaller scales look less realistic if they look like they are trying too hard. For example as regards certain aerials you can hardly see in real life are going to be extemely over size in this scale. I find modelling is a compromise and interpretation anyways. (God I babble on.. COFFEE TIME ! ) cheers Rob
  4. I may have seen them and not realised when I was very young I have a vaugue recollection but as far as knowing what I have seen it’s only taxi runs. But I’ve long been fascinated by the Victor like the vulcan and Valiant and only now with the modes we have on offer can I start indulging my love for them. The matchbox kit was a pig to build if you want a Bomber version. cant wait to start my Airfix one. I would love to have experienced what you have mate must have been beyond words seeing that. Thankfully I have a good imagination and can see it in my mind. must have been epic ! Only the miserable. Life’s to short we are all kids inside. I have noticed that less so now but more in he past there has been a justification of distinguishing Model from toy. That comes from shame in the past where people who did this where told to grow up. Fact is it’s fun it’s art and it does stem from a toy brand but who cares as long as your having fun.
  5. Yep I freely admit to the little fly around to help visualise the build and see if it looks right at different angles (child inside wins all everytime) haha. Cheers Rob
  6. I never understood the logic in people getting upset about old threads being replied too it’s all valid still ain’t it it’s my frog vulcan which is right here. Next to me : I build it OOB many years ago now. It’s a very accurate model overall depite a few minor issues it’s the only model of a Vulcan B1 that was made when the real thing was still in existence. Sadly they are very rare and expensive along with the Victor and Valiant. The moles where passed to triang who made a few then they where either lost at sea or are stuck in a barn in France somewhere apparently. Sadly Novo did not get hold of these and as a result not many where made. Cheers Rob
  7. Sorry I remember now. Last I thought you was considering silver. Your doing a tanker then ace. Yep XA923 which I was going to do in service condition but I’m getting the itch to make it as it was at the end of its life all faded but I’m it sure yet.
  8. I think I’m going to paint this as in this pic below to display with the Victor. It still really gets me miffed Cosford scrapped these two and the comet survives. They clearly where not as rotten as said seeing as they dragged them around tbe back of the hangar. I think it’s actually more likely the museum didn’t know what they had or didn’t care as they had new B2 vulcan and victors. I’d always hoped they where stashed away in one of the hangers because I’d never seen photos of the scrapping but found the confirming photos recently sadly. Wheels next !
  9. Cool. I made the cuts so the wings would still sit flush but also guide and keep the pin/needle in the right location. Normally I’d drill after gluing but as Mikro Mir made the wings so thin that was gonna be a PITA. Have you decided which victor your doing yet one of the kit ones or kit ones or you going to go for an alternate identity ? cheers Rob
  10. I’m going to be scratching mine out of plasticard. Better than fussing with etch in this size. I've just updated mine too I’ve done similar to you with the Pitos. But with sewing needles. I also replaces the nose part with the end of a drill bit. Fun kit aint it
  11. Cheers mate Thanks for that Adam I’ll check that out. Super glue is a pain to use not my fave glue in the world. But good for some things. Most swear by gator glue for etch. I mysef like deluxe materials glue and glaze as it drys very strong and has a flexible quality too it. I know it’s for Windows but it gives small parts a little give if they are knocked. Update on this while we are here. Milliput on the tail this will be filled later. I’ve trimmed up and blunted some sewing needles and made pito tubes and an old drill bit end for the nose. Araldite is my fave glue for this as it’s very strong dries quickly but give you time to reposition and it self levels. Any mess can be cleaned with a cloth and lighter fuel (if your quick) While I was at it I decided to add them to my 3d printed Vulcan B1 in 1/144 scale and paint it black. I need to build up the layers to get it smoothish but it has a Terribly rough surface so I’m going to try and make it smoother but it’s so hard to sand it’s never gonna be a more than a nice representation. I think I might paint it as XA900 as it was at Cosford before scrapping. But as if they had kept it and put a B1 rudder back on it. except for Pito Tubes this is one piece printed off a computer in tiny beads of nylon. In one piece ! .. Incredible technology these days eh. cheers Rob
  12. Some progress using Mr. Surfacer 500 and micromesh pass to remove sink marks created by a small amount of glue on very thin very soft plastic. But once dry very solid oddly. . I’ll neef to sort the tail out as the small part from the centre rear was broken on mine. A blob of milliput should suffice here. cheers Rob
  13. I’d love to see that mate. Would take a few mods to the tail and shortening the nose. I used to think Kader had made the short nose but actually it seems they have made a B1 nose with the prototype canopy. Either way it will look ace. I’ll proably do this one as a camo one now im doing the Mikro Mir in white. Glad to hear your enjoying it and so am I this kit is very welcome. The early victors where so clean and beautiful looking. It’s a bit improvement on the Valiant. It’s a good size for sure and lends itself nicely to dioramas. Cheers Rob It does look a bit longer yes. However I feel it looks smack on. I know officially people say the Victor B2 has the same length nose as the B1 but I have always felt despite the wings joining further back on the B1 in a totally different way as they are totally different wings that the shape of he forward fuselage is different. I have somewhere lucky shot a of a B1 and B2 side view from the same angle and you can see the B1 has a flatter bottom profile that the B2 which is more of a soft c shape. The same seems true of the upper section behind the canopy flatter on a B1. It seems that the fuse was slightly longer that the B2 to me. I could be wrong like I say but it jsut looks different to me and both these models look correct for their variant and stack up well together. I will be making up the B2 also so we will be able to compare them side by side at the end . As Mikro Mir and Pit Road gave us some Sqn markings I may do a flash white Victor B2 with pale markings. Oh and yes prices are getting higher as the value of currency keeps changing lately sadly. What can you do. Well I try and buy em in bulk from abroad then it makes the postage cost worth it and a better price. Helps if you love the subject as much as me. Otherwise it’s had to justify the price now when the 1/72 offering is only 15 ish pound more. Officially that may be the case but when I look at them the nose shape or forward fuse looks different as I mention above. So could be a kit issue. If I can find my Victor drawings I’ll offer both kits parts up as I have unbuilt of both still.
  14. Hi John many thanks and I’ve checked the big wing out and that looks amazing as do all your models. can’t have enough Canberra’s. I wish there was more flying over here there is nothing like a Canberra a super agile flyer. I was picking up by old revel b57 the other day I still need to give it its final coat.. slow aren’t I ! , cheers Rob Thanks mate. This one will probably never be anything more than a form for a mold. So I hope if the mold is successful it will spawn (ironic it’s got frog origins..) many Vulcans. As it’s 1/200 I’d love to make a section of waddo with a whole Sqn or at least 6 and take some good outdoor photos. Ive managed to get the Mr Surfacer off now and the sprue is melting nicely. So all that needs to be done is fill the wings and rescribe then mod the tail fin to have an extension fillet to meet the smaller tail cone. Then we are getting there. I don’t know what it is but there is something so special about the shape/silhouette of a vulcan B1. Rob
  15. I need some of your pegs. I must be stupid for sitting there holding it with my bare hands as it sets haha. Looking good
  16. Of course. There is no way I’m going to trial it on a Model. No chance. Even if successful I’ll probably use w&n now. .. but we will see
  17. Many thanks for that. I have been impressed with the W&N stuff in the past. I may well give it another go. I did just order some MR Hobby 182 I will experiment first on a test sample to see if it can be lightly misted over enamel or Klear. But If W&N is tough over enamel when cured then that will do me
  18. My god it’s been so long haha thanks dude hope your well man. Well a few of you may have noticed I’ve been away from this for a few years now and had a very stop start return back to the bench but I am well and truly back in the muddy fields of Britmodeller (what a wonderful place to be ) . Its fun getting back to the many kit battles I’ve started. So many threads left stalled I can’t belive it but I’m circling them all again now. So it’s been about 4 years ! , I am in the process of making these smaller B1s for fun but also as a practice run for a bigger venture. The two other B1s may take longer and I decided to proceed with the much nearer complete frog inspired B1 that I have copied the wing shape from and reduced to 1/200 scale. this will then be used as a form for a mold to prove or disprove the way forward for a 1/144th vulcan B1 of which 2 forms are in progress. If these work and it is deemed worth the cost in silicone my improved and much larger 1/96 frog vulcan that has had scratch built intakes , modded spine and improved canopy, bomb Aimers window and other improvements will then also be molded as a mass piece leaving only the wheels and other small components as separate items. So it’s down to this we 1/200 Vulcan B1 to prove the therory before it’s bigger relatives can see the light. Much like a 707 I guess !, Removing aged Mr. Surfacer 500 is hard work but made very easy with nail polish remover. I need a good filler so I’m using an aged Tamiya cement to melt dragon plastic sprue to make a filler of the same material that will sand at the same rate as the rest of the Model. cheers Rob
  19. There must be someone. You are looking for someone who wears a napkin on their head and has pencils hanging out their nose who's vocabulary is limited to "wubble"
  20. Till I get some varnish which amazingly I don’t have any. Ive blutaked it together and sprayed up some concrete. The concrete is not for this but jsut me messing with colours and pencil. Cheers Rob
  21. Thanks mate. Only if you look for it. But I well expect the real things had the odd touch up here and here occasionally. Just need some enamel varnish now. My test proves that klear is not real barrier for a rattle can. cheers Rob
  22. Agree with all that and I’d also buy 45 Vulcan B1s if I could afford it. that’s if the kit is any good of course. If not I’ll stick to my resin one. That would be nice wouldn’t it. However this could be achieved much more easily with the old Kader / Lincoln international kit and a suitable airliner fuse to adjust to suit. Some progress on this then: Canopy and bomb Aimers window filed to fit and dipped in klear (they don’t fit good as is) The outer wings are exceptionally thin so easy with the glue or you will be going back with Mr Surfacer for the few sink marks created (I will be yes ...) I think on the next one I’ll be using araldite for this section. A few drags with the Tamiya saw to allow me to fit sewing needles for pito tubes later. Lower wings on , glazing on, and tail tacked on for now. Seams being tidied and holes outer of the intakes drilled open. Here it is with the old Kader in which they didn’t do a bad job of at all. Just odd they made the Valiant and Victor but no vulcan. Let’s hope Mikro Mir and Airfix don’t follow their lead. cheers Rob
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