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Posts posted by robw_uk
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12 hours ago, echen said:
On one of my posts someone suggested moving the idler to accommodate the length of the tracks. I thought it a bit drastic but doable if really necessary for a neater finish.
I moved the drive wheels about 1mm rearwards.... It works.....
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53 minutes ago, echen said:
Great work on the tracks - and all the rest.
I find it very puzzling that, with all the work that goes in to developing these kits, so often the tracks are too short or occasionally too long!
It really beats me as to why.
I agree, some come.with adjustable idler wheels.which makes sense,.but if they don't then you would hope they would get the tracks right..... It's more the issue of link and length.... Indi link if you have enough you can at least add an extra one....
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Nice start. Built this kit a few years ago, tracks were a pain but the rest went together well
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26 minutes ago, Hamden said:
Very very nice Rob you're raising the bar with this one!
Stay safe Roger
thanks Roger... the tracks are about 3mm too short (the idler wheel(?) isn't adjustable so will have to work out how to minimize the gap - think gluing tracks to wheels then applying tension ... but feeling more confident with whitewash and slowly getting there with weathering...
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1 minute ago, Maddoxx77 said:
Nightshift and sprewsnbrews have some great tutorials on yt on painting figures and faces. They helped me alot.
NightShift is my go to - will try the other as well
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1 minute ago, Maddoxx77 said:
Looking greatso far Rob. As for the figure's face. Just take your time. Adding a bit of retarder to your paint helps alot.
I usually work with 3 colors. Base of cavalery brown, highlights with flesh, cheeks with a very diluted redbrown.
thanks... similar colours to what I thought to use - used retarder in the green which did make a difference, will do the same when I do the face an dthe brown on the hoster and hat
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did you get this one finished? tempted by it, sort of put off by the rubber band tracks in the kit but thinking what if the prototype the russians captured was put in to their service... 4BO, big red stairs and red russian slogan.... think it would look immense
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Very very nice. Am just building the same kit.... Can you remember if you added any weight to the nose?
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20 minutes ago, PeterB said:
Hi Rob,
When I was building mine I thought it might not need ballast but then I noticed a little "weight" symbol hiding in the instructions. It does not specify how much but mine was fine with 7g - probably 5g would have been enough but it definitely needed some! I guess the photo nose is a bit longer so it may even need less and there will be more room to add it presumably.
Pete
the key has the weight symbol but can't see it in the instructions - will add some... the PR nose IS longer yes BUT it has clear parts and the cameras in it so space is limited. I can get some right in the nose but the rest will have to go over the front wheel well.... just need to find my lead figures that I used to use for weights...
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6 minutes ago, theplasticsurgeon said:
thanks... really odd looking plane isn't it...
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50 minutes ago, Mr T said:
Takes me back a few years. I built one when the kit came out. It was a nice kit as I recall, typical of Fujimi kits of that period.
thanks. not built a plane for many years, and never tried natural metal, lets see how well I do, perhaps I will get another plane if I enjoy it
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1/35 Takom 1/4 tonne truck (ie A Jeep)
in TLC - Transports, Loaders and Carriers
Posted
Body work coming together ... Will paint the engine but it will be under the bonnet so only the bottom will be seen....