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RJP

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Everything posted by RJP

  1. Delightful pictures! I particularly enjoyed seeing the details on 6087, previously R9893. You can even see the overpainting of the previous owner's serial numbers on the fuselage and rudder. I can say that the Mk.V CF-HOT also had the same fitting, visible in photographs dated 1980 in the red/white/blue scheme of a corporate aircraft owned by Inco. It was re-registered that year to Canadian Warplane Heritage at Mount Hope and painted as RCAF machine 12417 when they refurbished it, though an Air Britain caption makes it 12103. The wire used by CWH does not appear to be streamlined, just round section cable, tightened by a turnbuckle. After many years as a flying display aircraft it was stored outside. I was at CWH just today hoping to get a close look but it was not to be; apparently it has now been disassembled and stored though I have no useful idea about its condition.
  2. I don't think that's Monogram, theirs was 1/48. I know it isn't Airfix from the parts breakdown but Lindberg did a Kingfisher and it looks like their work.
  3. RJP

    Plan 'D'HC

    I was prompted to pull my half-built Airfix Beaver from the back of the closet and have a look. Those rivets really are too prominent - off with their heads, says the Queen of Hearts. Something else to look out for - the prop warning stripes on the floats are moulded as raised lines where they really should be painted on. Easy to fix.
  4. In cooking, you remove the backbone of a fowl so it can be flattened. It will look odd but it cooks more evenly. In rubber glove culture, you slit the glove along the thumb side so it can be opened flat. It yields a bigger piece of material to work with, so less matching of seams.
  5. He wasn't suggesting that there was no variation in real life but only that he wasn't interested in pointless criticisms of his models. As for me, I am perfectly willing to accept the idea of full-size masks. Reliable witnesses beat latter-day opining all day long as far as I am concerned.
  6. My friend's concern was with variations on his models. There will always be some eagle-eye with an opinion. This way he avoided that using only a minimum of care.
  7. Many years ago, a friend was on a bit of a Spitfire kick. He figured otherwise innocuous variations in pattern between models on a shelf would be annoyingly obvious. So he bought some household rubber gloves, spatchcocked them, drew out the pattern in ballpoint pen and cut them out with kitchen scissors. I forget what he used to stick 'em down but he was able to re-use them time and again. The hardest part must have been transferring the pattern to the rubber and I wondered later if he'd used a paper pattern and a photocopier. Cheap, easy and re-usable.
  8. Low tech works well for plastic surgery. If the cut is a straight one may I suggest a backsaw like an X-Acto saw or something similar. Full strokes with a longer blade makes a more stable (therefore accurate) cut than short blades and short strokes. If you take it slowly a basic saw won't get away from you. If you do go wrong it's easy to stop - and easy to correct with filler - before the piece is ruined. Marking the cut line with a sharp 2H pencil is a good start. Use a straight edge if the cut is a long one. I like stiff cardboard for that, from a good quality file folder. The lines are erasable too if you aren't satisfied. Then the saw. Clean up the cut with a good file until the parts dry fit well.
  9. That Modeldecal sheet rings a bell. There is also Modeldecal set 17, also from Hannants at 4.99. Besides the RAN A-4 there is a camouflaged one from the RNZAF, plus a Danish Draken, an RCAF T-33 and a Mosquito FB.VI postwar in Germany. The description on the website is incomplete.
  10. RJP

    ...

    The SAM article was by Peter Lockhart, December 1984. The base kit was from Heller and the conversion from Falcon.
  11. Merit released a 1/48 Bulldog in 1957. It was later reboxed under the Artiplast and Smer labels. It was distinctly crude compared to the entirely unrelated and completely new one from Inpact (never 'Impact', a common error) released in 1968. This later kit was also reboxed under several names - Pyro, Life-Like and finally Lindberg. Inpact had a series of interwar British biplanes - Hawker Fury, Fairey Flycatcher and Gloster Gladiator. Inpact also released some pre-WW I types, most (all?) of which were reboxed by the same names as the 30s fighters. All worth searching out.
  12. Does the sticky surface attract and hold dust?
  13. I built the kit when it was new and liked it very much. It was a step ahead of the usual rivet treatment we saw back then, just a few fine raised lines that fell to a basic scraper in seconds. The parts fit and the colour shceme made it different from anything else on my shelf. A few years later, Replica in Scale (mid 1970s?) had a short piece on the kit and suggested some improvements. The cowling was solved by wrapping it in card to bring the diameter out level with the cowling gills. Once that was done there was some easy file work to open gun troughs, exhausts and an air intake. The cowling leading edge had to be recontoured, putty being the suggestion. That done, the whole cowling had to be mounted 2 mm aft of the kit location. The prop needed replacing and the suggestion was for one from the Revell Bf 109E, which also supplied mass balances. Longer guns from the spares box. Nothing in the article seems too onerous. That said, I have no way of comparing overall shapes and accuracy but it was pretty sharp in among the more common Mustangs and Spitfires. Would a new kit be welcome? Certainly, but there's modelling fun still on them bones.
  14. The Alan Hall article included drawings by Richard L Ward, a useful thing to have. The article was probably less a challenge for modellers back then - 55 years ago! - than now since the entire fuselage was carved from balsa and the grain sealed with talcum and dope. I suspect, in this day of resin and aftermarket, the skill needed is an unopened - or burnt and buried - book. I know I never mastered the art. Ian Huntley had useful drawings in SAM September 1986.
  15. Was there a serial number?
  16. A couple of points with respect to surface finish. Shiny is nice but too shiny can be too much. The shine ought to decrease with apparent distance, just like colours can be muted for scale, so a model ought to have a sheen - a soft shine - rather than a sparkle. (The idea of scale colour has its adherents and detractors - wear armour if you venture into that discussion!) The shinier the surface the easier it is to see any slight imperfection - they'll jump right out at you. Don't assume that the surface sheen on the real thing is uniform. Different sheens can show up even on camouflaged machines. The insignia sometimes can be seen in pre-war gloss but the rest of the airframe is in brand new matt paints. So where possible model from a picture paying attention to what you see rather than what you assume. I have noticed that covering a mix of gloss and matt paints or decals does not always give the uniform finish I want. It's tempting to go for heavy coats but beware buildups of varnishes that can go white on you if you are using matt. And too much gloss tends in my hands to look like a glazed doughnut.
  17. The Revell Germany kit from 2007 had the door operating links too. Given the location, the dark colours and deep shadow surrounding the undercarriage I'm not surprised they don't often jump out in pictures. I have a downloaded one of R5727, the pattern example for Victory production, in brilliant sunshine at Dorval with the links in plain view. As I think about the mechanism, what could be a simpler way to manage the doors? They're just doors, they don't actually have a complicated job to do. They go up, they come down. So no screwing around with little motors or anything else, just a simple unpowered link. Another little detail to look for the next time one gets to Hamilton or Windsor. A plug for CH2A, now renamed Canada Aviation Museum, at Windsor. Work on FM212 is really moving ahead and much of it can be viewed up close. It won't be long before a lot of the innards are hidden from view. The natives are friendly and any time I've been there the guys are only too willing to answer good questions. They also maintain a really good Facebook page with plenty of detail pictures. A first rate job being done. A link: https://canadianaviationmuseum.ca/
  18. Profile 153 The Armstrong Whitworth Whitley by Philip JR Moyes published in 1967 has a photograph as well, starboard side from below. The caption reads "Mk. V T4149 with underwing RATOG containers; used by R.A.E., Farnborough."
  19. Just visible is the hyphenated underwing serial presentation. MJF Bowyer (Bombing Colours, 1973) records the first dozen Blenheims had this feature, the serials being 30 inches in height and placed nearer the wingtip than later examples, illustrated by an Alfred Alderson drawing on page 37. In addition, the aircraft letter is illustrated by Alderson at this time as very light grey. Perhaps it is though the picture looks more like white (thinks: white?). Elsewhere in the book Bowyer refers to squadron codes on Battles as being in various shades of grey. I guess this means not what I always thought was Medium Sea Grey - perhaps the standard hadn't settled down yet. I shall have to pursue this before committing grievous offence on a Battle. The squadron number is recorded as red although he states in the same volume that all he recorded himself were in yellow. FWIW in the picture it looks red to me. Flight colours?
  20. I was idly playing around in Google and found this: "One of the first Blenheim Mk Is handed over to 114 Squadron at RAF Wyton was K7040 which was delivered on March 22, 1937. The aircraft escaped operational service without incident. Its tour with 114 Squadron was short, as it was renumbered 1042M on April 8, 1938 and continued to serve as an instructional airframe with 1 SoTT. Andy Hay/www.flyingart.co.uk" at this reference: https://docer.tips/raf-inter-war-bombers.html
  21. On your recommendation, I just had a peek on Amazon Canada. The hardcover is listed as Unavailable - "We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock." But there is a Kindle edition available for immediate download and the price - ten bucks Canadian - is a bargain.
  22. My father was a district manager with MacMillan Bloedel Limited, one of the forestry companies that invested in Forest Industries Flying Tankers, the company that brought the four surviving Mars to Canada in the early 1960s. Dad got hold of publicity and informational films produced by the company for showing to community groups about forest management and there was one strictly about the Mars. A real eye-opener for a bunch of kids from the 'burbs.
  23. May I add a tweak to the answers above? I agree, absolutely don't touch the area until the glue has not just dried, but cured right out. Test the surface by running a finger over it very lightly. If you feel anything standing above the surface cut if off with a razor blade. Not a hobby knife, for this you need something actually sharp and flexible, and the best blade for that comes from the drug store. And a sharp blade will make a smooth cut and leave a clean surface, no further roughhousing ought to be necessary. Steer clear of sandpaper at this stage - you cannot (well, I cannot) remove high spots without collateral damage to the surrounding area. After that you can very easily use your favourite filler to bring the surface back up to fill any depressions. Here's where the sandpaper comes in if you need it. Then finish as usual.
  24. I bought the Xtradecal sheet myself, trying a theme approach to stash clearing. I have all the kits I need except the Lightning. True to form, I considered getting a Lightning to complete the group, ignoring the obvious object of actually reducing the stash. Admirable restrain has been exercised. Sigh.
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