Damocles

Does anyone know of any UK stockists of Archer Dry Transfers ?. Chris.

Compression spring for spent cartridge chute. Chris.

I got mine from a company called 'Pecision Labels & Decals'. I think they are mainly focused on Railroad modelling, but the chap (John R Peck) was most helpful and I had them 2 days later. Cost was £8.50 for a 500ml bottle (I don't know how this compares with other suppliers, but when I found a supplier with the 'original' in stock, I jumped at it). I got 3 x 500ml bottles, and the P&P was a straight £1.50 per order. He also rebottles the product into 100ml bottles for £2.50. www.precisionlabels.com/payment.html?2.50&100ml-Johnsons-Klear www.precisionlabels.com/payment.html?8.50&500ml-Johnsons-Klear Chris.

Try Legend Productions, they do an excellent M134 set, which has 2 sets including 'bendable' resin feed belt and ammo can. I have a set, and the moulding is excellent, picture below. ($12 USD from Lucky Model) When recreating the spent cartridge chute, try and get your hands on some very small extension springs, I got a box set of various minature springs (from RS Online, althought it was £35), and there are some just made for that job, and the tight coil represented the ribbed chute just right, and a little metal wire up the middle allows you to bend the spring into shape. If you are stuck for the springs,PM me, and I'm sure I can spare one or two. Chris.

Think I will Chris, there is nicely molded female driver with impressive proportions, clearly dressed for a summer campaign, supplied with the kit. It looks like she is desiged to be posed standing in the cab, but as i decided not to get distracted with trying to detail the cabin, the hatch is well glued down. I little filler, and here pose can easily be changed. I have scrapped my original diorama idea, so a bit of thought needed as to where she will be positioned. I'll put up a picture tonight of the lady in question. The Lady herself (as yet unnamed, suggestions welcome) Chris.

Hi Jonners, That's great, exactly what I was after, great starting point. I'm going to be cheeky here, but would you know what proportings would be applied with the flat base to get dead matt ?. Chris.

Disclaimer first folks, I know this is an exhausted topic, but having read the numerous topics about the almighty 'Klear', I had to go and get myself some, so 3 bottles of the original shiny stuff arrived in the post yesterday, and then I realised that I have not fully understood the uses, why's, benefits and what it can be mixed with. I appreciate that there is a load of information on the topic on the froum, but I was hoping that someone, could give a quick overview of the basics or alternatively direct me to a post which covers the basics. Also, if someone could confirm that the Klear if got, is the original formula (picture below). Cheers, Chris.

If the truth be told, my first attempt with the new airbrush was a disaster, paint was indeed comming out, but I couldn't understand why paint was actually dripping from the nozzle, after some debate I decided to clean it out, set to one side and then do the sensible thing and read the instructions for the first time !.........an guess what ?...... I was spraying with the travel nozzle on !. Needless to say, it's been a steep learning curve, with a big slice of humble pie. Chris.

Camo applied, a bit ropy at the edges, but as I have not used an airbrush in over 10 years, I am well happy with the finish and with the amount of weathering to be applied, I can cover my mistakes/errors. Appologies for the first three pictures, camera does not do well in natural light !. Chris.

Again Gents, really appreceate the feedback. I have a funy feeling the tip of the needle is bent a little, however I took the advice, applied the comments and started again, and to be honest, whilst the finish is not perfect I am well pleased as I have not used an airbrush in over 10 years. Here is a quick picture, do consider that this subject does not exist, as neither does my camo scheme !. Thanks again, Chris,

thanks gents, I'll give that a wizz. Chris.

Can any one advise as to why, the paint is splattering at the edges, as shown below ?. I am using a H&S Infinity with 1.5mm needle, at about 15psi. I have tried LifeColour and Vallejo Model Air, with the same effect. Thankfully I had the good sense to experiment first. Chris.

A little more progress, having difficulty with airbrush doing the camo scheme, paint splattering at edges (pressure / mix / bent needle ???), so am not going to rush just yet. completed base colour from side completed base colour from above Chris.

The big plus with the resin parts, was that there was very little cleaning-up required, in total probably less than an hour. Some parts where quite warped, but a little hot water sorted it out.

Primed next three, are the partial 1st coat of LifeColour UA 204 Dunkelgelb. Havn't airbrushed in quite some time, and it was beginning to go bad, so I kocked it on the head. Will complete base colour and camo tomorrow. Start of base (not quite sure, where I am heading with this !. Chris.

I used a standard scalpel blade, safety glasses and gloves highly recommended, broke two blades in the process. There is a tool for carving out leather you can get, like a scalpel blade but bent into a 'U' shape. Knowing when to stop is the hard part, think I went a little OTT, especially as once it's sprayed, I'll have to paint all the cuttings to be fresh steel or rust. Chris.

Thanks for the comments, it is looking like this will be my first completed model is quite a long time !. Here are some more pictures before I primed it, all detailing finished, some more PE and brass tubing (a little artistic licence here, but given the subject matter, I think I can get away with it). Chris.

A quick update of progress so far. Legs are complete and primed with Halfords finest, and all placed in a rough layout for the base (main body will sit higher when finally glues in place). A few more resin parts and PE to be added. Chris.

I'm just going to continue with this post into the build stage instead of creating a new work in progress post. Progress has not been as swift as planned, but I got all the major components put togeher, filled and sanded down. So to start, I went for the left leg. Adding some battle damage to the knee plate and foot, I replaced the resin hydraulic hoses with springs and added a few spare PE parts and brass wire for fictitious detail. Just to highlight the 'battle damage' better in the pictures, a gave the effected areas with was of 'Mig Dark Wash'. Photo's below. Chris.

Excellent Review Mike, and thanks to your good self, I am now £30 lighter with a combined 12 pot 'German WWII Military Vehicles Set' and thinners winging its way to Belfast. Chris.

Certainly is inspirational, ohh to be a full time modeller !. I have plent of minature brass tubing, that'll finally ger some use. Think i'll give that sea salt trick a go.

Two big aluminium (about 8 inches), with resin muzzle breaks (made of 2 halfs). Childrens taxi service today, do will put some pics up tonight. Chris.

Well I ordered a 'Jagdluther' from AFV Shop. Service was to say the least exceptional, I ordered it yesterday at 14:28, received email at 16:16 that it had been dispatched, and it arrived with me at 12 noon today !. Product boxed up very well, moulding excellent and well cleaned up, all set into moulded plastic tray. Here are some pictures. Going to put everything to one side and really get moving on this one. As this is a bit of a sci-fi topic, I'm going to go my own way on this, with some spare PE parts for detail and maybe some lighting. Chris.

This is just a quick review of the 'Dioramas Plus' 3 Story Apartment Block (DP12), out of the box and unassembled. This is a 1/35 scale 'Hydrocal' cast product by American company' Dioramas Plus, and I got it from John of Cove Models, Farnborough. I had seen these via a link on 'Armourama', but the price, high postage costs and potential import costs had put me off, and then I came across Cove Models whilst searching for soemthing which I cannot remember, as I clearly got side-tracked. Kit Cost cost £28.50 + £2.25 P&P The kit depicts a 3 story apartment block, which is damaged after what looks like a significant pounding. The kit will certainly provide a basis for any middle east / African diorama from the 70's onwards. 1st impression is of a sturdy and well packed box, with nice photo of the finished product. Internally, the protective packaging is plentiful and carefully done. Kit contents includes separate wall sections, balcony section, bag of rubble, laser cut 'shattered' glass, a length of wire for the damaged 're-bar' and superb 8 page colour and B&W instructions. There is also a section of black board provided for a flat roof or internal walls/floors. Some more board would be required if you wish to model a complete internal structure, but standard foam mounting board would certainly to the trick. The casting is excellent, with clear and defined detail in the 'Hydrocal' plaster (only apparent cleaning up will be some cutting back of flash around the internal face of the window reveals). Although the casting feels strong, it should still be treated with care as I am sure it wouldn't take much to break. There were a few chips/broken sections, but I would stress that these where minimal (and to be honest, a lot less than expected given the material) and will be very easy to fix, and in some places added to the 'damaged' look. Overall impression is of a very well made and packed kit, which due to its size has loads of potential for development and expansion. 10/10 for Dioramas Plus' and Cove Models for an excellent speedily service. (I also got the DP7 'Apartment Ruins', DP9 'Cornered' and DP8 'Rubble & Bricks', which are of equal quality as this). Some pictures below. Chris.

Finally some modern and excellently crafted modern British soldiers, designed for their Jackal & Coyote kits, but could be used for any modern British vehicle set. Accurate Armour are on to a winner here !. Chris.