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Steve Noble

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Posts posted by Steve Noble

  1. Just now, Windy37 said:

    I’m not into radio controlled cars , but I’ve seen on Twitter a new Tamiya Escort MK2 RC car . It’s a proper forest arch shell . I don’t know exactly how accurate it is , but wouldn’t it be good if they produced a 1:24 kit as well . 
    Gary . 

    It has been known for Tamiya to mimic what they do in R/C in 1/24th. It would be nice to have a Tamiya Escort Mk2, but I'm not confident...

    • Like 2
  2. Looking good Gary, i bought the Rothmans version, looking like I'll have to have this one as well!! Can't understand why they did the tyres like that, looks a bit odd. I've bought some tarmac rims from aftermarket to replace the kit rims. I'll have to check what they're like and see if they are thicker at the rear...

    • Like 1
  3. You can use any hardener if you're in a pinch, I've used other brands in the past. I believe Zero paints are Lechler auto paint rebranded. Lately I've switched to using Mr Colour GX100 clear in the little glass jars and also Gunze Premium aqueous clear, again in the glass jars. The safety concerns of using 2k finally made me switch.

    • Like 1
  4. 26 minutes ago, APA said:

    Hi

    Yes it's an inkjet. Thanks for the tip about cutting too close 👍

     

    I think I'll be happy with printing and cutting out the decals and reuse the sheet until there are too many holes 😂

     

    A

    I sometimes cut them out and then brush another coat of the Microscale product, just to be sure they are well sealed at the edges, before I dip them in the water. It's a bit belt and braces, but...

    • Like 1
  5. 1 minute ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

     

    Never had it jam or come off (touch wood), I just use Tamiya tape, and only one piece on the upper/leading edge these days.

    I'm going to have to try this in the future, thanks for that!! 🙂

    • Like 1
  6. 11 minutes ago, Cheshiretaurus said:

     

    The way I approach this is to print first out your decal sheet on the centre of an ordinary A4 sheet of paper, now cut out a piece of decal paper just bigger than the area of your wanted decal sheet and tape this over the image with masking tape.

     

    Feed this back into the printer and print again. now you decals have been printed on the same place on the A4 sheet but they went on to the decal paper that was taped over the top.

     

    Leave to dry, apply decal film, apply to model. admire model, smile!

     

    CT

     

    Does it still go through the printer with no issues? Being two times the thickness and what tape do you use? I've never thought to do that, but it's genius and would save a lot of wasted decal paper when I'm only printing a few decals and not a full sheet..

  7. I assume you're using an inkjet printer to print the decals? If you are using a laser printer no sealing/varnish coat is required. You can use them straight off of the printer. With inkjet though it is essential to seal them. I always use the aforementioned Microscale liquid decal film, brushed on with a large flat brush. It dries very quickly and works very well. Remember when you cut the decals out not to go too close, because if you break the seal, the inks will bleed out when placed in the water.

  8. Just now, Black Knight said:

    I'll throw a spanner in the works

    I'd get the paint either off the shelf or mixed at a car accessory type shop, eg Halfords, into a rattle spray can.

    Yes, you could get the exact colour then as well..

  9. Vallejo wouldn't be my first choice for airbrushing a largish model in 1/16 scale. Personally I'd go for a lacquer paint through the airbrush, or Tamiya TS aerosol paints. Just think a much nicer finish would be had than using Vallejo on a body..

  10. 38 minutes ago, Windy37 said:

    Still undecided about the colour of the spoiler / splitter . Really ought to be pale yellow , as on actual car , but don't have a colour to match .

     Gary . 

    I always mix Tamiya XF-4 yellow/green and XF-12 Gold in equal parts for that kevlar colour for the front splitter. It seems to match pretty well. I've seen it look more yellow on some restored cars and a lot lighter, almost beige on some period photo's...

    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, bmwh548 said:

    Mine was the WRC '99 and yes, the side decals were a major pain in my backside.

    I'm building the '98 model but converting it to the '98 Rac rally.

  12. Just been having a play around with the Super Clear GX100. Been building a Tamiya Subaru over the last few weeks and finally got all the decals on and dry (4 days total) Mixed up a batch of the GX100 and applied it sparingly with 5-10 mins between coats, about 4 coats in total. Came back to it this morning all good. So I mixed up another batch and proceeded to lay some wetter coats, not hosing it on, just wetter coats. I noticed straight away some small bubbles appearing in some of the decals where they appeared to be lifting. It reminded me of Tamiya TS-13 when I've tried the same technique and had a similar result. Luckily the bubbles levelled off as it dried, so no harm done. I switched to Mr Top Coat from an aerosol to finish the clear coating and this was okay, but not as shiny as the GX100. Anyone else had any issues over decals with the GX100? 

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