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Steve Noble

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Everything posted by Steve Noble

  1. I've just purchased a small jar of Gunze Mr Hobby aqueous clear premium to try. I tried some yesterday thinned with their own aqueous thinner and it sprayed very nicely. Also tried it over decals and again no problem and a very nice finish. Left it for a few hours and flatted and polished it. Worth a look. Very little smell and a good finish.
  2. They're not the correct type for the Metro. Rothmans Rally in white on the front and side and Rothmans Rally in blue on the rear tailgate and spoiler.
  3. Do you have a link to them? Can't seem to find them at Spotmodel?
  4. I usually mix 50:50 equal paint to thinner as a starting point, then check how it sprays. I'll add more thinner if it's not spraying well enough.
  5. When they did the Monte Carlo Rally they used Marlboro on the car in the principality of Monaco itself and then removed them and replaced with 'Tommi' on the actual stages..
  6. I think it carried them for only a couple of rounds on the British Open Championship. But the BBC wouldn't show the car at all on the TV coverage because of the logo's. They then switched to the Racing logo instead..
  7. I must admit I'm going to add the Rothmans decals even though it never carried them for the Rac rally. I know that technically it's incorrect. But they look so much better than the plain 'Racing' decals..
  8. I'm surprised none of the main decal companies have produced just the Rothmans logo's at a sensible price..
  9. You can easily get the Rothmans font for free on the web and make your own if you have a printer.
  10. Hi, I have bought one set of decals from them for the Opel Manta Heat for Hire. They are nicely printed. The whole sheet is one and you have to carefully cut around each decal closely to avoid excess carrier film. They are coated in a clear coat across the whole sheet. I asked what type of clear it was and they said it was a "hobby clear" so I'm not sure if it's acrylic, enamel, lacquer or what? May make things difficult if you apply them and use a conflicting clear over the top of them. I personally think they are ridiculously expensive for what they are. They could be half price and they'd still cost a lot. I paid £28 for the Manta decals. I could get almost 3 sheets from Shunko or S27 for that price.
  11. I use Tamiya enamels for brush painting parts that I cannot spray, mainly the metallic shades and they are excellent paints. The chrome is good, but not as chrome as the Molotow mentioned above. The only thing I find with the Molotow chrome is that it does take a while to dry properly and also if you rub it hard/handle it, it takes a little of the shine away. You need to lay it on fairly wet to get a nice chrome effect, if you're brush painting and go over the same area a lot I find it also looses the chrome look as well. Otherwise it is a very good chrome finish..
  12. Following along, I have one of these in the stash. Nice start so far
  13. I don't think they do any thinner for Model Color as they are intended for hand brushing and are already at the correct consistency for that. They make thinner for Model Air as it's intended for airbrushing, however I find it's already thin enough to use straight from the bottle..
  14. You can buy special mesh filters specifically for paint, or use some fine denier stockings, they work the same way. If you compare many different brands of the same colour paint you'll always find differences in shade. Maybe one is the perfect shade? Who really knows? If you take into account that on many aircraft you can sometimes have many shades of the same colour where it has been touched up-repainted, then they could all be correct. Personally I'd just go with whichever paint you believe is correct..
  15. However you polish it you're probably going to thin the smoke layer. If you thin it more in one place and less in another it will appear as different shades. Many years ago I tinted a screen on a Tamiya Suzuki Hayabusa kit with Alclad smoke. It laid down perfectly with no orange peel texture and needed no polishing.
  16. Personally I'd always use the airbrush myself, but I know some people can get a great finish using a brush...
  17. Just paint it as you do plastic. Tamiya primer is good, as are all the usual paints/clears.
  18. Have you tried using a sharp needle and pricking the creases? The setting solution will be able to get into the decal and work better. Also a cotton bud dipped in almost boiling water and used directly onto the creases as a sort of iron can help, but it's not without risk. Also, as already mentioned, a stronger decal setting solution could help..
  19. I'm curious to ask, what are you priming that you used a whole can of Tamiya primer and it's still not finished? Must be some project...
  20. Depends on the type of paint? You can use oven cleaner on enamels paints, or, as already suggested IPA on most other paints will work fine.
  21. Gary, it's part number H18, your hubs are toe out, so, it's too short. If you lengthen it, just a little the hubs will be straight. You only need it to be a fraction short and the hubs will toe out. Cut it where I've put the red mark and adjust accordingly..
  22. It's not the arms themselves, it looks like the steering rack part, I think it clips onto each side of the hub, no glue? If you unclip it and can make the hubs straight/square in the arches, it's either too long, hubs toe in, or too short, hubs toe out. I've had this happen on a few models over the years, even some Tamiya kits. It's a simple fix to cut it in the middle with side cutters, align the hubs into the correct position and use a sleeve of plastic tube to rejoin the middle together. Takes a couple of minutes only. It's difficult to explain, but easy to do.
  23. I find the best clear is lacquer type such as Mr Color, but I don't think they are good over Vallejo paints. Have you tried Gunze Aqueous? I use this over Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics and always get a decent finish. The new 'premium' type is very good..
  24. Very nice progress, coming on well!! I don't think it's the steering arms that are too long, more the steering rack that is too short and not allowing the hubs to go fully out. If the steering rack is too short you can easily cut it in the middle and use a piece of hollow plastic tube to rejoin it, sort of like a sleeve arrangement. Don't glue it at first, simply push the two outer parts back into the 'new' centre sleeve, adjust them until you're happy with the alignment, then use some Tamiya thin or equivelant to glue it together when you're happy with the final position. You could even use a piece of rubber tubing if you want it to be permanently adjustable.
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