Steve Noble
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Posts posted by Steve Noble
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13 hours ago, colin said:
After getting a couple of bottles of Mr Color 171 and 4 of their Brilliant white, I can confirm that Mr Color 171 is a closer match to the Tabu decals than the Tamiya TS36
It's probably a tad brighter than the decals but will give the colour swatch a couple of coats of gloss clear as 171 dries satin, hopefully that will bring it spot on the decals
Thanks for the heads up Steve Noble
No problem. I love those Mr Color paints, so easy to use and they have some fantastic colours in their range. I just wish I had a local store that stocked them...
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Definitely sprayed it too dry. Personally I would strip and repaint it, but that's the most time consuming method. When respraying make sure the paint is properly thinned, check air pressure, check that you're spraying close enough to the model and wet enough. As suggested plastic spoons are great for practice. You can see how different techniques work out without commiting to the model.
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Can you post a picture of the problem? It's so much easier to diagnose, if we can see the problem..
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18 minutes ago, Bill1974 said:
I have Stynylrez and will stick with that for general painting and spraying (as it's absolutely fantastic stuff).
It's the white ‘system’ that I need to figure out exactly ‘what mixed to what’ type thing.
I'm not getting the super thin paint finish I want and have seen others producing and just for the white finishes I'm willing to stray from the acrylics I have so I can get a finishes that is needed to achieve this.
I have mixed my own whites for my harrier recently, I copied and pasted the comment below.
My three whites have arrived.
Crafters choice titanium white
Ariste metallic titanium white
Liquitex titanium white ink
All three with some gloss varnish for the underside and I have yet to mix the grey / sea grey / royal blue as I don't have the exact colour. I'll mix enough for the top and some spare for touching up after.
I still have this mix and it is a beautiful white but it's still a little thick over rockets and missiles even when sprayed lightly. To get the full opacity white it gets thick and I want to same finish others have.
The thinnest finish would be lacquer gloss white straight onto the plastic with no primer and no gloss/varnish coats.
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34 minutes ago, Bill1974 said:
Hello modellers
I posted a question about spraying and brushing white and a lot of people responded with mr hobby mr surfacer white primer 1500 thinned with 50/50 with levelling thinners and some tamiya lacquer retarder.
I have no idea what these are and an Internet search doesn't really help as there doesn't seem to be easy information about these.
I take it they are lacquers / oil / solvent based?
These would require me to buy the upgraded air filter and spray booth.
Comments and suggestions on painting with these to get a thin white and where to buy them at lowest cost would be appreciated.
This would be something I would try only after buying the new filter and spray booth extractor. 🤓
Mr Surfacer is a solvent/lacquer based primer/surfacer, it's not white paint such as I would use to paint a body of a car model for example, it's more a primer that you apply before painting to get a smooth surface for your top coats. Levelling thinner is thinner by Mr Hobby it has built in retarder, hence the "levelling" in the name, the paint will level and smooth out as it dries. Not much point adding extra Tamiya retarder into a thinner that already has retarder in it in my honest opinion just use the levelling thinner.
It depends what you are trying to achieve? Do you want a white paint that will be gloss for a finish or are you looking for a top primer/surfacer that gives a great basecoat ready for paint? Use the Mr Surfacer 1500 for the latter, or use any good lacquer white gloss over the Mr Surfacer for a gloss finish top coat of white.
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56 minutes ago, CFster said:
That you think your booth extracts everything is irrelevant.Giving the type of recommendation that you did to someone new to the hobby is just irresponsible.
Yes you're 100% correct. Wear a mask when spraying, because no extractor fan can extract all the fumes from any paint. Even acrylics can give off vapours. Let's all be safe when spraying. 🙂
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21 minutes ago, CFster said:
Not that it matters, but Benchvents range anywhere from 192cfm to 389cfm. Which isn’t all that much more airflow than a $125 Amazon booth. There’s a reason why Phil Flory has two of them side by side…Additionally, because you may not smell it, doesn’t mean it’s not there.
When I worked in a body shop years ago, we had MASSIVE downdraft ventilation. And you better believe we wore respirators too.
I don't doubt your obvious knowledge. But I know my own booth and it extracts everything. I would never feel the need to use two of them side by side. I did also quote in my first post that I do still wear a mask.
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6 minutes ago, CFster said:
This is simply untrue.How so? Do you have the Graphic-Air booth yourself? I have one and there is zero smell when airbrushing, even with lacquer paints.
6 minutes ago, CFster said: -
To be honest if you get the extractor booth you don't really need a mask. The Graphic-Air booth is so good there is zero smell with any paint when airbrushing. You can still wear a mask though and I often do. Suppose it's "belt and braces" and really can't do any harm.
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The lacquer based paints are not really suitable for brush painting to be honest. You can touch up small areas by brush, but on larger areas they dry quickly and you end up pulling the paint you already applied off of the surface.
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I can highly recommend the Graphicair/Benchvent booth. I have had one for nearly 20 years, no smell from any paints including lacquers and automotive paints. Brilliant, reliable bit of kit that I'd never be without.
Primer is very personal. Some people's favourite is other people's worst. Personally I prefer Tamiya aerosol primer. I've never had any success with primers through an airbrush and always get a gritty/dry/bobbly finish.
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You can get proper paint filters the same as used in autobody repair shops, they will work fine to get out any bits in the paint.
One of the reasons why I only mix the quantity of paint I'm using. I've never been fond of mixing big batches of paint and storing it. The thinner and paint separate over time, or, as you found out, the paint can dry in the bottle and cause all sorts of problems later on.
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You're not doing anything wrong. If you place the decals on a white surface they will be fine, but on a coloured/darker surface you probably won't see them at all. One work around is to print them onto white paper but you need to put a background of your chosen colour around them. For example, I made some Yamaha decals for a motorcycle project. They were white letters and they were going onto a red bodywork. I used white paper and printed a border of red around the white Yamaha letters. I then cut around the Yamaha leaving a tiny edge of the red I'd printed, as close a cut as I could do. Once applied to the red bodywork you could not see the red edge and I was left with a near perfect white Yamaha logo.
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I used to do something similar when spraying 2k clear. I would apply 3-4 wet coats and to each coat I would add more thinner being very careful to not make it run. On the final coat I was probably at 80% - 90% thinner, almost no clear. Once the final coat was applied the finish was like glass with no orange peel at all. I've had some paint jobs that needed no polishing at all using this method. I'm not sure it works anywhere near as well with acrylic clear such as Vallejo, my gut feeling tells me that it's working best with solvent/lacquer clear only
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The best paint and easiest to apply for the McLaren F1 cars from the 80's and 90's and also the James Hunt M23 is Mr Color #171 Fluorescent Red. Nothing comes close for colour shade and vibrancy in my honest opinion. It dries semi-gloss so needs clear for a true gloss finish.
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32 minutes ago, Skodadriver said:
Are we long-lost brothers? That describes me to perfection!
Quite possibly. I think we're all brothers and sisters in some form or another..
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7 hours ago, Mike said:
If criticism isn’t too hard to cope with for you, you’ve put this in the wrong place, so I shall move it to Chat, as it’s got nowt to do with vehicles.
Certainly not Mike. Thanks for moving it to the correct place.
Thanks for all the replies also about the question I asked. Some very useful responses from everyone. To be honest my worst critic is myself. I'm that person who will strip a perfectly nice paint job because I know I can do it better. I've always said to myself that on the day I build any model and I'm 100% happy with every part of it, that's the day I'll stop building models. I've come close a few times but never 100% happy with anything I've done...
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3 hours ago, galaxyg said:
Nice. Given the costs of the Tamiya Escort and the hard-to-find/poor quality of the Heller Citroen, I could happily get either/both of these.
You're correct. The prices of the Tamiya Escort have really sky rocketed and got out of hand..
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I wondered what people's thoughts are on offering constructive criticism on people's builds, is it okay to do this or not? I ask because I did such a thing myself yesterday, not on this forum but somewhere else and I did it in a very nice manner, not nasty or bluntly in any way. The person took great offence to the fact that I had criticised their work, told me to 'shove my suggestions up my own a*se'
If I'd been really nasty or hard then I would understand this. Myself, if I post a build and someone comments with any kind of advice, words of encouragement etc for improving my builds then I'm all ears.
I'd like to get people's opinions as to how they feel about this?
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The Ford Escort WRC is a must have. The Heller kit of the Citroen is not very good to be honest, I sold mine off a long time ago. I'll take a lovely modern Citroen kit anyday over that Heller offering....
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Looks fantastic, great work so far. The paint in particular is stunning!! Love that Zero 2k clear, just wish it wasn't so toxic..
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7 minutes ago, sroubos said:
For the Tamiya route, when do you apply the decals and how do you seal them in?
Always apply your decals onto the painted surface. I allow a minimum of 2-3 days for the decals to dry before hitting them with clear. Of course, you don't have to seal decals with clear coat. You can apply them onto the paint and leave it at that. Many race cars don't have the sponsor logo's clear coated over. The one and only reason I clear coat decals on a model is purely to protect them.
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Looks great, the Cibies add a lot to the front end and I love the whale tail spoiler, very cool!!
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Gotta love a Lynx!! Looks fabulous, very impressive. The Eduard set looks great. I've just ordered some photo-etched Eduard details for my Harrier GR.3 in colour. I've been away from aircraft since the early 90's and had never seen the coloured etched parts before...
Paint from Jadlam
in Paint
Posted · Edited by Steve Noble
You know, many years ago, I used to order Tamiya TS sprays (aerosol) from Hobbylink Japan and they would ship via airmail without issue. Now you can't send any paints via Royal Mail via road. It's total rubbish. There's pretty much zero risk sending a small jar of paint via road as long as it's properly packaged. The whole paints transporting thing has gone mad...