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Everything posted by krow113
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Is there a clearly noticeable difference between 1/35 and 1/32 scales?
krow113 replied to Qtebakqsth's topic in Chat
1/32 Ta 152 , 1/35 Verlinden figs : Dont worry too much about it , have fun and mix it up! -
Your second option is the one. Use red letters and seal them good prior to the gold letters going on. Whatever method you use for the red -seal it in well. These are letters from n automotive- hot rod- race generic sheet.
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lol
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lol
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3M double back tape.
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Do you take those wheels apart to deal with the center seam ? There should be a rim lock opposite of the valve too I think. Keep up the momentum!
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How many pics of useless p/e rigging would you like to see? As a custom fabricator of 45 years experience I am able to understand and execute procedures to the best end possible. This is not possible; after 3 weeks of trying and ending up with the same result. 1/32 Biff. Rigged in 3 days after clearing off the mess left by the previous effort. Prym is available , cheap , gives the closest profile to RAF flying wires and can be successfully completed without wasting time.
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Cool. The only prob with the kit chain is it is impervious to pretty much anything but looking at it. Tough to form , wont hold shape , absolutely no glue on planet earth will bond it , I even tried melting it together! The best bond was with black tire cyano , I used that to glue a skirt on the seat and it held. Super chain-boy , think yer pretty good eh?! LOL Chain work is only half the work , sprockets must be engineered and made as well. I did make some for The Hillclimber : That pic shows a resin sprocket cast from a master made up of 7-8 cut vinyl pieces ,which is a viable method for a master. This pic is of a chain assy jig , one of many I tried , and a pretty good assy procedure , using plastic rod for rollers and heating the end which mushrooms nicely: I could not get it sorted in time for the contest that year and the chain cost me m/c first and perhaps the BiS that year! Some Bobber '47 shots for your wiring reference. I worked in a custom Harley shop for 2 decades and was privy to a ton on info on this bike , my specialties were carb work and custom wiring the bikes that were built: Wiring here is of varied types , none of it is the stupid black tubing every model has in it. All of it is different materials , sourced from all over the world. And you can see the chain is slightly under scale and does not match the sprockets , but this only is an issue if yer gonna compete. Want any other pics let me know.
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Hey Natty. Yes I did use the RC 211 Top Studio chain for my '47 Bobber rendition of this kit. I'm not one to occlude others threads with my pics , not without asking first anyway. The kit has challenges even without the previous 'work' done on this one! I applaud the effort. I have moulds for casting hubs and rims for this model as well as number of other details relevant to a bobber model. I did pop for the MFH chain for another model , actually 2 of them as it was for a Hillclimber with an extended swingarm. You will notice any chain set of merit comes with a jig and specific building instructions. When Eduard kindly supplied me with 1/8 scale links I had problems all the way through , roller supply , jig set up etc ,etc . Google ; krow113 and Bobber '47 , or Hillclimber some comes up. Hillclimber blog: Auto Modeler :: HARLEY HILLCLIMBER (kitmaker.net)
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Dimensions taken and another file for the Gotha accessorie series for the mirrors. Cut out of chrome/mirror sign material:
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S'more fuse detail work. On the IP doghouse adding the 2 mirrors and sorting the windshield. Mirrors are mounted ,the left by drilling out the marked hole inside the doghouse and guessing where the right one went , both mounted slightly angled up and to the outside , care given that the 2 faces are parallel when viewed from the side. You can see the windshield in the pic laying there. I suggest that the windshield be fitted when the doghouse work is started. It fits problematically and needs special care to get it sorted: P/E bezels were used to replicate mounting flanges..
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Fuse details; Specifically the gunring , gunring door , and the debris guards: A pic to show the a/m guard screen (not used , as well as the other 80% of the useless a/m set): No ref pics for the a/m screen , lots for the kit parts. Set up for painting.
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Thank you. Detail work continues , big surprise , interior gun ring detail was made from flat black vinyl : Hardware was embossed and drybrushing done: In-stalled: Gun ring p/e plopped on for a look:
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Thanks Rod; Front fuse detailing continues with custom printed loadout and warning decals applied:
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Mind numbing busy work. Double glueing the 40 odd eyelets into the top wing , rib tape decal repair and paint touch ups , readying the top wing for its install. Also thinking about strut attachment to the bottom wing.
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Drybrush masks were used to do the steps and window frames: Dbrushed in four colors: A good time to point out the useful demarcation provided by the cockpit coaming. I have a mask for this as well.
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Final details on The Deathhead:
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The Deathhead final configuration; He looks a little stark hangin' out there , plenty of details to keep him company coming up!
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Thanks for looking in. I cant go any farther with the AB . Jaw shape looks a lot better and it looks more in line with the pic: It would be silly to try and make the dhead exactly like the pic, pretty much impossible anyway , so I'll get it as close as possible. My Sotar went down to 3.5 lbs pressure , clogging almost immediatley but soldiered through the minute color applications. The masks worked splendidly , easily modified , easily stretched into shape removed and replaced numerous times. Next will be the use of the brush with the single hair! No brush like that will work. I used watercolor pencils to out line and drybrushed some texture on the work: This is prolly the best I can do with it.
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Thanks BBogus. And everyone else looking in. The Struggle is real! A very complicated set of masks and an unclear procedure begets some hesitation and reworking: Worth it: You decide: Still needs work , only at about 50%. The lower jaw profiles need some work and then on to the final tiny details.
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Thanks BBogus. And everyone else looking in. The Struggle is real! A very complicated set of masks and an unclear procedure begets some hesitation and reworking: Worth it: You decide: Still needs work , only at about 50%. The lower jaw profiles need some work and then on to the final tiny details.
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Thanks fpr looking in. Deathhead work begins. A very complicated set of masks , I'm setting procedure as I go. Wheeled off the outer mask , mostly to check if its centered and it is: A very good and encouraging start. I'll go ahead with this. Got this far and I'm happy with the lines, they look like the photo.
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Bombs and rack get finished: White plastic card for the wooden FOD's of the day . Double drybrushed with DS Grey and then chrome silver:
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Test fit proves load out wont foul the rear fuse:
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BBogus - Thanks Rack gets painted and the undercarriage rigging gets started: And back in to strap up the bombs , I'll leave them as they fit real nice and were a bit of work to get sorted: Thanks for looking.