krow113

Good stuff well done!

Thanks Sgt.Squarehead. Skillset stems from decades of custom fab experience. A series of mishaps and happenings as well as the whole covid thing , well , its been really tough to get back to it. So with the mindset to get it finished laddie Im looking at this with finality in mind. Starting with the custom fuse decals , I am sourcing white decal suppliers , 5 have been found , answers on the way. Teaser shot:

Thanks Natty 4 suppliers contacted with one response and quote returned. Bedlam Creations. Light Industries. Kadee Waterslide Decals Arctic Decals. Presented as suppliers only.

Sad. I just read a little of his life. He was in Dallas on Nov 22 1963.

I did searchs and found three suppliers. I'll wait to hear back from them. Anyones experience with a supplier would be appreciated. Thank you.

Something that contributed to the cessation of activity on A Gotha was these white printed decals. As is just visible there is a slight double image and I cant reconcile myself to use them. They were done for free by a friend , not too worried about offending anyone as they are quite detailed and may have stretched the printers capacity for tiny detail. Not sure of the limits of white decal printing either. They look proper - an amalgamation of several reference pics - and they are so close to being useable , but.... My question is : Does anyone know of a company that can print the white ink for decals?

650 mer'can

I just sold this kit. Pretty rare from my research. Just thought I would drop it into this thread...

The part with the 2 sink marks is the cover for the ignition coil. The 2 HV leads to the plugs indicate that. The heel/toe shifter is usually 2 pieces , the heel behind the toe on the shaft , each with a bolt and a gap , no seam. Some early shifters may have been in one piece , easy google search's would sort that out.

Nice work, Having this same scenario going on and seeing comments regarding forward visualizing , I can mention that I became aware of how much alla that photo etch weighs! Some landing gear re-inforcement is prolly gonna be needed.

Good luck! Still wonder why in this day that there are few options for 1/48 in flight figs. I am aware of many of the available figs: Some rares can be found:

Pranksters all over the planet are calling establishments and paging Mike Hunt.

Prolly just offers some confidence that you wont go through the first gloss coat into the color coat during the rigorous polishing method.

Not neede Annealing was brought into it by you. I mention using the runners as test pieces, the best advice here. By the time the railing has gone through an annealing process and quenching , which will restore SOME of the tension into the metal, it may be useful as an old cargo net! lol

For a railing? lol Just bend it past , let it spring back. Good practice shaping parts.

Mastering the 'overbend' is helpful. Bend the part past where it needs to go and see how it springs back to where it should be. Some practice at this will familiarize you with the properties of the metal used for the p/e , as most of it is different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Also once you anneal , you will not be able to regain the inherent springiness or stiffness to the metal. Practice these methods on p/e runner metal before trying on the parts. Its about familiarizing yourself with the metal.

Thanks . Since doing that series of wheels I have purchased a laser engraver. I used it to replicate a 1/6 throttle lock screw a detail missing from the Tamiya Fat Boy Lo kit , I am sure the files for the sprockets could be cut out of a piece of plastic rather than the whole master/casting work. Real one and 1/6 scale replica: I did determine after a lot of concentrated effort ,was that metal casting of rims and hubs to fit the kit tires was a good first step. Spoking methods all crap out at the point of spoke nipples , mostly because of the 40 for each wheel that have to be exactly the same and are sooo tiny. I've been through the work on wheels and the chains to the point of determining what methods wont work and methods that will work. Not tryna hijack your thread , just giving you info to make good decisions about your model.

Doing good work. Wheels and chains are the biggest reason these killer cool kits rarely get built. As shown re-spoking is possible from a number of different methods. I have the Gilera and the BMW kits as well and have pondered these problems. The kits are great for their time , arguably some of the first multi-media kits. The progression , though the series of kits , of the chain and wheels design can be clearly seen. Some are ( I use the term unwillingly) ghastly , while later kits there is improvement. For the chains I have used Top Studio RC11 chain sets and repurposed MFH Brough chainsets as well. I made sprocket masters to suit from layers of cut vinyl , stacked and then cast in metal , laid out to match the chain pitch. Here is the mask vinyl cut and layered for the drive sprocket masters on my 1/9 Hillclimber: Good luck with the finishing of the model. Hit the link below to go to my fbook page ; Custom Motorcycle Modeler Page.

Google it , tons. Specificly the chain guard parts and the single cut out in the barrels gave it away. OHV gear drive so cool.

Took me a while to figure it out. Its a Crocker. Really , really cool , iconic American V twin.

Top Studios RC211 chainset worked for my 1/9 Bobber: Evident in the pic is the rear wheel , cast hubs and rims from kit parts and handmade patterns. Laced using the lacing instructions in the Harley service manual with brass spokes in a space age Elon Musk approved , NASA certified lacing apparatus: Rims and hubs cast in resin , DONT do that , the inherent tension in a spoked wheel is counterproductive. Resin cast hubs on my Hillclimber: Switched to metal cast: MFH Brough chainset ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) for the final drive chain: Lots of ways to do stuff.

Fit wires inside the tubing. Generally I will bin the generic black tubing that somehow represents all of the cables , oil lines , brake lines etc which are not all the same.

Those resin ones in the tutorial do not look like weld beads to me! You will need to spec your weld bead dimensions and find the ones that fit the size for your model.

B 17 crew. 'nuff said.

Scribing with a caliper can work . Then the 'roll' method to cut.