Ripaman

Hi Col, thinking of what you have said, quote (I'd be sad to see such beautiful construction clad in either the kit parts or even clear resin such is the stunning effect of seeing the bare structure as you have it at the moment) so still not sure which way to go, but thanks for the kind words again, also thanks to AngloSaxon. Well guys I have been working on the tail plane for a little while, scaled a drawing I had to 1:24 and using pictures I have. Started by making the main spares out of brass tube and .003" brass shim then glued together, then made all the connecting spares out of plastic round and .005" sheet. made a jig so that I could keep straight and at this moment making all the connector plates out of .003" brass. I will post more as I build, hope you enjoy. Well until next post, Regards Richard

Hi Sean, Thanks for your kind words, you should post your builds. Well I have now added the frame work on the tail so that the tail spares would not move, still need to add some more braces, will make a mold of the tail and make a clear resin casting, then cut out the plastic leaving the tail fin in place so that the construction will be shown. Now just wondering if I should keep going and do a wing or what? Hope you enjoy Then I added couple more bracing as seen in this picture, Until next post Regards Richard

Thanks Mick just trying to make as close to the real one as poss. Well just a small update, I bought a CD of the Hurri from England and it had four good pictures of the kick in foot step, also I had a drawing which I scaled to 1:24 so I built it out of .003" brass shim including the brackets, after I took the pictures I added a small spring so it now it will open and close. Hope you enjoy I have to see want else to build before I start putting some paint on her. Best regards Richard

Hi Ezio, What I intend to do is were the canvas would go on one side is to make a mould from the kit, I have bought some clear resin so I will make a casting from behind the cockpit to the rudder, then I will be able to show all internals. Regards Richard Thanks Shaun Thank you as well Artur Slow going but coming together as I pictured it. Regards Richard Hi Radleigh, I just use CA from UMA models, or Zap CA. Best regards Richard

Thanks Nobby, what you do in 1:72 scale is Just a small update to my build, the last pictures I built the back bracket which holds the cables twice the size it should be, so I have changed that and added the top bracket. Added the bracket under the radio (for the cables) then made the frame work for the retractable foot stiirup. Machined a small pully wheel and made the bracket to hold it. Just a few more brackets here and there before I can start painting. Until the next post Regards Richard

Hi Nobby, wow love the scratch building you are doing, and you are doing it in 1:72 scale bloody hell I'am trying to do it 1:24 I will be watching with interest. Richard

Thanks Si more to follow. Regards Richard

I appreciate your kind words Moofles, I did start this as a kit and then found the engine was wrong and it went down hill from there Regards Richard

I'am glad you are enjoying my build, I'am really enjoying building it. Regards Richard

Thanks very much Mike, just trying to build as per the drawings and pictures I see. Regards Richard

Hi Motley, welcome to the site, not been here long either, thanks very much for your kind words, there are lots of very good modellers here as you will see. Regards Richard

I did make them so they could move but one bit of glue stopped that !! so no they will not articulate, regarding the radio they are not wired yet so I don't know Regards Richard

Hi Col appreciate your kind words, hope when it comes time to paint I do it justice. Regards Richard

Thank you very much plimsol hope you liked what you see.

Thanks for your kind words Woody, Moofles and Crookedmouth. Done a bit over the weekend, made the oxygen bottle with cage which I just used a bit of tack to hold in place, will need to take it out so that I can paint it. then made the junction box and frame, glue in the handle for the radiator coolant flap door also added the connecting rod to lever arm. Started making the power box whic goes behind the TR1133. Put some thread from the lever arm to the elevators (end of fuse) so that I could work out were the frame work went to support the cables. Hope you enjoy Regards Richard

Thanks Lenny still a long way to go. Hopefully not to long in time. Richard

Hi Kev, No not a watch maker, I'am just a steel fabricator by trade, thanks for looking in and your compliment. Richard

Done that before Fozzy, very nice gun though, you could make a hinged panel just over the gun so it woould be able to open Regards Richard

Thanks very much Gav, it takes alot of patience to scratch build and if you get it wrong, you just throw it away and do it over until it looks right to you, once you do this time and time again you get better, well thats what happened to me. Give it a try but don't give up. Richard

Hi FZ6, you are correct the radiator, seat, map holder, flaps, and a few other things are in the etched set which is worth buying, I should have said all the brass, white rod, plastic card are all scratch built, I was not going to go this far, but once I started, and bought books, drawings, CD I just find I cannot stop!!!! Love to see your progress. Richard

Hi Ezio, welcome to the site and thanks for your compliment, I have not been here to long either, glad you like what you see, I really like doing the small detail. Richard

Hi Dave, thanks for the kind words and for looking in on my ongoing WIP, what part of Calgary do you live in? Richard

Hi all, have not done to much to my Hurri these past couple of months, weather here has been very hot, my Son got married and had family come over from UK, so it was showing them around the Western part of Canada. Thanks Col, Vulcanicity, Terry, rmcclure and FZ6 for the kind words, Col your question do I intend to do a wing, we will see once I get past the fuse. FZ6 I did buy the etched set but what you see in my pictures is all scratch built except the cockpit frame work. Well I left off by showing you a picture of the Radio equipment from a book so I have built these without dimensions, just tried to scale of the pictures I have so hope they will do. Still got quite a few things to build which I will post my progress as I go along. Started off making the IFF, then the control box with gauges, impact switch, then the TR1133. Hope you enjoy until next post Regards Richard

Just a small update to my build, I bought 470 drawings from Warbirds resoration and received them last week and what a help they were, so I have started to add some linkage rods from the control stick to the elevator lever. Now I have alot of drawings with dimension I had to change some items I had already made from pictures, so now they are made to the right scale. Also have added the angle which will hold the plywood then the radio gear. In these picture below I will make what I see, the only items I do not have dimensions for, if anyone has some it would really help me. Regards Richard

Hi Hi Radleigh, Sorry its taken me a while to reply to you, I use micro tubing which you can buy on line or at any model shop, also .005"/.010" brass sheet which I cut with and small shear and knife, I bought the shear from Micro Mark from the USA. Also I have a Sherline model lathe and Sherline model milling machine. So with these tools I can make near enough make anything I want. I use jewelers hand tols to hold bend etc and alot of very small files. Hope that helps you a bit. Regards Richard