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Ripaman

Gold Member
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Ripaman last won the day on January 22 2013

Ripaman had the most liked content!

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About Ripaman

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 11/06/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island, BC Canada
  • Interests
    All types of modeling

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  1. Thanks very much everyone for you kind comments and likes do appreciate them, I very much enjoying working on this great Schooner. After the wheel was completed (except for painting) I starting making the steering linkage system, I pinned and glued a piece of rod to the rudder then drilled a hole through the deck, then cut it down to size as per drawing provided. Made a jig so that I could build the linkage off the model, made the same size rod and glued it to the same angle Started with the bracket which went on the rudder shaft, machined the collar then machined two half circles 180 deg apart so that I could solder two small tubes for the connection arms Did not use the first shaft I made because the nuts were to big so threaded some brass with a 1/16"-60 Whit die (got these from my Dad a long time ago), threaded both parts but I know one needed to be a left hand thread and I didn't have one. Then made the top shaft connection bracket, started with a 1" long piece of round brass, then taking another piece of the same size brass machined one of the side connection with the step, filed so that it would fit the round brass, for the other side I drilled a hole and inserted a piece of brass rod then soldered both parts, put it in the lathe and drilled and then taped with the same size 1/16"-60 Whit after that I saw cut to the size as per drawing. Arms for the lower part were up next used .010" brass sheared to size, drill holes then made a spacer and soldered together then carefully bent them to shape, made the bottom shaft connection same as top except there are two step side pieces and also I did not tap. Last thing was to make the top link arm using .010" brass, shear to size, drill and filing to shape and the back bracket So now to put all pieces together on the jig As you know I like to see how parts work and then build them in miniature, it was a lot of fun to make will be painting all parts before I install onto the rudder shaft. Regards Richard
  2. Well time for another update, carrying on with the cabin I was looking at the drawing to see what smoke stack to use and I noticed it said the bent pipe may have been used when Bluenose was racing, so I look at another book I have bought which is for the Bluenose 11 by LB Jenson (great book) and in it there is a page for the original Bluenose which shows it with a Liverpool Head. I scale the drawing approx and here is my take on a Liverpool Head, started with smoke pipe and made connection plate to top of cabin Then took a piece of tube three sizes bigger and machined four slots in the 0, 90, 180 and 270 deg then cut two small piece to fit inside the part I machined then two more to fit inside the small pieces to get the size all these parts were soldered together. Got the gap I was looking for from the slot to the inside pipe Then machined the head and cut two more thin pieces of tube to go on the outside of smoke stack and soldered all parts together Will paint it sliver Wheel house was next, followed the drawings provided also found a picture on the web and in a book I bought showing the same as the drawing provided, date of pictures where of the Bluenose when she was sold in 1946, again made all parts from Boxwood, pictures are to help with my build if not allowed please remove thanks.. Cut the four sides but before putting together machined a .030" ball for the groove should have done two small grooves but did not have a .10" mill, then I made the lid , it is made so that it would fit without gluing Made the coaming for the bottom and as the picture rounded the edge on the top, also put the chamfer on the front edges Cut the slot for the wheel shaft and beveled the edges front and back to the lid, got to make those small hold clips the groove is a little to close the the coaming but I will leave it as is. Here is a picture of the steering wheel which came with the kit, it didn't look the greatest so looking at the drawing supplied I decided to machine my own, drawing scale was 3/8" = 1'-0" and it gave a nice drawing of the shaft and linkage I thought why not have a go making all parts. found another picture on the web (of Bluenose 11) which gave me another view on how it went together. Started by machining the rim (which in the real world was cast) in the lathe and machine the first face leaving some material so that once I parted off I could turn it around and machine the other side, then it was in the mill so that I could drill the holes for the spokes, drilled the holes bigger than the spoke so I could add tubing two times the size of the spoke, then parted it of in the mill with the table/chuck laying down The largest tubes I soldered to the rim Machined the hub and drilled 8 holes, cut some small tube which will go on the hub, then made a jig so that I could solder all parts together without it moving, picture does not show the small tube by hub Did make the shaft using small bolts and tube Here it is after soldering needs to be cleaned up Next up was to make the handles out of boxwood, I took a 1/4" tool steel and ground the shape Now it is cleaned up and also made the unidentified round object, made that out of apple, made the lid to go on top Until next time Regards Richard
  3. Another very nice build coming along Kev Regards Richard
  4. Just catching up Steve lots of likes I like working with metal too, very nice updates Regards Richard
  5. Wow brilliantly done John Regards Richard
  6. Been awhile but good to be back thanks very much for all your nice comments Having the hatch slide back and forth I thought why not make the doors work so made some small hinges Then made the doors out of Boxwood and machined the grove with a .030 ball cutter Still have to make the pins for now just stuck some .010" rod to hold Then made the compass housing out of box wood cover I made by cutting small strips of wood to go around shape Glued the bottom of compass housing to cabin so when I make the compass I can add, compass top fits nice and snug Did notice I had the Catheads sticking up to high so now made them closer to rail as per drawing Until next time Regards Richard
  7. Very nice work Pat, Regarding your mould and casting how much are you going to do, regarding bubbles in your rubber you could use a vacuum to pull the bubbles out before pouring over your masters and when casting once you pour resin into mould you could install into a pressure pot and that will remove any bubbles in your casting Here is a picture of mould pulled with a vacuum, you will see no bubbles but I also put it in the pressure pot for 2 mins Vacuum pot Pressure pot I used was a pressure paint pot not an expensive one, with a couple of changes. This is how the resin cast came out Hope it helps Regards Richard
  8. Brilliant job Rob it looks so life like Regards Richard
  9. You are doing a grand job on a grand lady Jim Regards Richard
  10. They look troublesomely small but you got them to look brilliant Regards Richard
  11. Thanks Kev for the poke been awhile eh Thanks Glynn its time for an update. Last post had me saying next up was to make the companionway so here we go, started by making the sides and adding the first step Next up was to make the hatch Then I thought I would make the hatch slide so machined a .020" slot in each side and added a piece of .020" wood to the hatch and got it to work If I had the hatch open someone might look inside so made the cabin with sides and planked a floor and made the stairs Then made the companionway fit the stairs so I could remove cabin top tp look inside Until next time Regards Richard
  12. Sorry I missed your build Beefy you did a lovely job on her Regards Richard
  13. 2 months gone by and look what I missed amazing detail in such a small boat Regards Richard
  14. Amazing PE work will look fantastic once you have a coat of paint on them. Regards Richard
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