Simon G

I've not had a problem myself . . . However are you applying the varnish before the decals?, would be better to matt down after. Clean any access dried Microsol with a damp piece of kitchen towl then varnish over the top. Si.

Very nice. Si.

I started this kit about 5 years ago, the intention was to sand and re-scribe, use etched sets for extra detail and after market decals to represent a USAF machine. That was the plan! I started, get fed up and left it on a shelf, dug it out and did a bit more, got fed up again and so it went on. I recently resolved to finish it or bin it, the bin missed out . . . . just. Various frustrations with this one. The etched brass didn't really fit and I hate working with the stuff in any case so apart from the seat most of it got taken back off or ignored. The Alclad finish marked at the mere thought of touching the model, even after several coats of Klear. The Eaglestrike decals laughed in the face of Microsol, on a second application they wrinkled and stayed wrinkled!, when the worst offenders were removed for replacement that took some of the paint with them . . . In the end I just stuck all the sub assemblies together and left it at that, I dare not attempt any weathering as the surface is so delicate. I don't expect the result will grace my shelves for long as I keep seeing the mistakes! I know the markings are probably wrong for this version of the sabre but it is 'representative' of the type. Si.

Hi Tony, I know the feeling! First thing I do is to make sure the joint is really dry, 48 hours after glued to make sure that there is no further shrinkage as the dissolved plastic of the joint hardens. If there is a problem with seams that resist sanding I will actually scribe the joint deeper with a knife or scribing tool and then fill the resulting trench with superglue, leave to dry hard and it sands at a similar rate to most plastics to a hard plastic like surface . . . . Si.

Very nice, Si.

Very nice indeed, I like that a lot. Si.

Hi, I've built the early version P51-D from this kit, I finished it in the end but I'm not rushing to build another! Good luck with yours. Si.

Very nicely done. Si.

Really nice, love the finish and weathering. Si.

To answer the question over the quality of the varnish, try some of the same batch on a test piece to establish if it's that at fault. on very rare occasions I've had a problem with one of the under coat colours that's stopped anything put on top drying properly, if that is an issue try a disimilar product, perhaps acrylic based? Si.

Tempted but I'd never sneak it in past the wife. Si.

Hi Rick, I found Rustins Driers on Ebay, less than £5 for what looks like a lifetime supply!, really seems to work as Xtracolor was touch dry withing a few hours and felt really hard (maskable) in 24. The fins on this aircraft are white, adds a nice contrast to the other drab colours. Si.

Hi, I was lucky that this aircraft had a painted nose, I tipped epoxy coated lead shot into the nose interior before adding it to the fus. The kit instructions suggest weights can be added under the cockpit floor if going for the glazed version, will certainly need something. The front U/C leg is very delicate so I had to be a little careful not to overdo it!. Si.

Very nice job, looking forward to seeing your future builds. Si.

Very nicely done. I can see from the U/C layout that nose weight was always going to be a challenge! Si.

Very nice indeed. Si.

Finished this week. Built out of the box, using kit decals. I found this an odd kit, some parts were an excellent fit while others were strangly vague, Happy with the result though. I added heavy weathering to this one although the pictures don't really show this up too well. Xtracolor enamels with a couple of drops of Rustins Driers added to the mix before spraying (as suggested in reply to a question asked on another thread) really works well in speeding up drying time. Si.

I had a tin of the relevant Xtracolor to hand but it came out way too blue in shade, I had the equivalent Humbrol and went with that. I'd had the Xtracolor ages (unused), think it must have been a bit of a diff batch as I had a second tin also the same wrong looking shade. I've subsequently ordered a fresh tin and that tests fine. I've not tried WEM Colourcoats, do they dry gloss? Si.

Just completed having spent some years part built after it was packed away for a house move and forgotten about! Out of the box apart from resin seats. I had problems with the finish on this one, not able you use Xtracolor enamel which would have been my first choice I ended up using Humbrol Satin paints. No amount of Klear would give me a gloss surface for the decals and I had real problems getting them on without silvering. I'm still experimenting with shading and washes which worked reasonably well against these light colours. Si.

Lovely work. Can you explain your materials/method for the dark wash over the green on the seat and bulkheads? look just right and I'd like to try it . . . . . . Si.

Looks good to me. The wash technique does take some practice . . . as I'm finding out myself! Si.

Interesting scheme, Nicely done. Si.

Hi, Just finished this one. Revell boxing of the Hasegawa tooling. Goes together well, a few mistakes in the Revell instructions to contend with but got there in the end! Built out of the box, painted in Xtracolour enamels and weathered with a watercolour wash and powdered pastels. Not sure about the wash, only my 3rd attempt and a little too 'stark', I'll have to experiment with more subtile shades. Si.

Finally finished, I'll post more pics in the ready for inspection section. Si.

Progress continues . . . . After decals were applied I used a watercolour wash to bring out the panel lines . . . . only tried this technique a couple of times and I'm not yet convinced It works for me. Then a coat of matt varnish (xtracrylic), thinned and with a few drops of light grey added was sprayed to seal every thing in. The resultant matt surface is the base for the final stage of weathering, this is done with powdered artists pastel applied with a brush. In the picture below one wing and centre section are done, the other wing has not been started. This technique will be used across the whole airframe, some light grey pastel being used on the upper surfaces to aid the faded look. Si.