Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Delayar last won the day on January 8 2016

Delayar had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

498 Excellent

About Delayar

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

873 profile views
  1. Thank you. I am not very good at figure painting, and on macro pictures, the eyes look a bit awkward. But in reality, it is not as bad Cheers, Markus
  2. Hi folks! I finally managed to paint the Elan13 figures to complement the wonderfull WNW Sopwith Camel. The WIP: It is OOB, except for the seat belt. Rigging was done with EZ Line and Prym knitting elastic. The grass mat is from Polak models. Here it is in all its glory: Cheers, Markus
  3. Thank you for your praise. To get a nice chrome surface, the plastic part should be really smooth. Then there should be a very glossy black coat. I used Tamiya spray paint. I let it cure for a few days. If it is not absolutely glossy, you should polish it, because the glossyness of the black is the basis for the reflectiveness of the following chrome paint. The final step is the Alclad Chrome paint. Apply it with low pressure in multiple light passe. However, the chrome coat is very delicate. Fingerprints can remove the chrome, and masking tape will peel it off as well. Furthermore, if you clearcote it, it will loose its shine. So I handled the rims and the exhaust with cotton gloves to prevent them from damage For the speedometer, I ended up clearcoating it and using Bare Metal Foil for the sides. Cheers, Markus
  4. Hi Folks, I recently finished the Tamiya Harley Davidson Fat Boy in the silver-gray paint, which was available in the first production year 1990. It is the older Tamiya kit from 1996. I didn't build it new, but rather tore apart a kit I built about 20 years ago. The parts were stripped from their old paint, chrome parts were cleaned. Covers of the gearboxes and brake disks were cut from acrylic sheet with a laser cutter. Rims, exhaust and speedometer were stripped of their plating and rechromed with Alclad. For the body and frame colour I used Tamiya Mica Silver from the rattle can, coated with a very thin layer of clear yellow to give it a warmer sheen. The WIP can be found here: Cheers, Markus
  5. I was a bit lazy in uploading my progress reports, but the build continued and by now is already finished I painted the body parts using Zero Paints 2k Diamond Gloss. Once the micro screws arrived, i could finish the gear covers: The rims were painted with Alclad Duralminium (flat parts) and Airframe Aluminium (shiny parts): The brake discs were also painted with Alclad and attached to the rims with allen head micro screws: Assembly continued once the lacquer was dry: Fork attached: Brake handles were also stripped of the chrome plating because of the ugly mold seams. The handle bar and mirrors were attached using steel pins for strength. The exhaust pipes were painted with Alclad Chrome. Here is a picture of the finished bike: More in the ready for inspection section. Cheers, Markus
  6. After a very light coat of clear yellow, I started with assembling the frame: The orange reflectors were sanded and painted to match the pictures of the real thing. Furthermore, I found no pictures of dark green dampers, only black ones, so I ignored the Tamiya call out, which is for XF-27 I also found some time to work at the laser cutter and make new brake discs: They are made from 1mm black acrylic glass. The covers for the gear boxes were cut from 0.5mm acrylic glass. I tried using styrene sheet, but the laser melted the fine structures. And in place on the engine: I have yet to make the mounting bolts. The engine and gear box was attached to the frame. As the parts holding the rear swing arm to the frame were broken during a fall off the shelf a few years ago, I had to craft another solution. To make this durable, I used a 2mm steel rod and drilled a hole all through the siwng arm. So there is one steel rod going through the mounting area. It will be held in place by the original plastic bolt heads. Cheers, Markus
  7. I promised a sketch how I fitted the bullet: 1. Drill holes (0.5mm) through the bullet. 2. Thread the rigging material through the bullet as shown. It should slide easily through the holes of the bullet. 3. Drill holes through the cabane struts at the joint of the top wing. Glue the rigging at the lower end of the struts. 4. Thread the rigging through the holes in the cabane strut. Pull it tight, until the bullet sits in the (vertical) center. Don't pull it so tight that you can't pull it any further. Just so that the rigging is taut. Glue the rigging at the cabane struts.  5. Push the bullet upward into the final position. Put tiny drops of superglue where the rigging exits the bullet.  This works with elastic rigging. With fishing line or similar unelastic material you have to choose another approach.  Cheers,  Markus 
  8. The aircraft is not yet in the RFI section, because I decided to make alittle vignette. I ordered a grass mat from Polak models Elan13 pilot and mechanic figure: Cheers, Markus
  9. The build continues... I painted the yellow parts on the rocker boxes. I masked the area, applied metal primer and then a coat of Insignia yellow (FS 13538, Gunze H 329). As i mentioned in the previous post, I stipped the chrome off the rims, as well as the instrument unit housing. They were pinted gloss black in preparation for the alclad. The frame and body parts were painted with Tamiya Mica Silver (TS-76) Cheers, Markus
  • Create New...