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stevehed

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Posts posted by stevehed

  1. I have never soldered but can see that a more rigid joint would be the outcome. But to suggest an alternative in case of problems I have used brass horizontal booms with Contrail struts as the uprights. CA gel proved more than adequate at the joints and the plastic card elevators were secured to the metal booms by the same glue. My builds are all 1/72 and this method was used on small fry like the FE8 and a large three engined whif that was built from a Vickers Vimy fuselage and HP 0/400 wings with brass and plastic booms. Must be six or seven years since construction and they are both in one piece. HTH

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  2. Starting to get somewhere now. Top wing went on no problem although not quite as level as I'd first thought but I can live with it. Once the interplane struts were secure I snipped the cabanes into separate items and reset the angles. Again not perfect but I'm not going to dismantle it now. Rigging is invisible thread. I've got to build the rear skid support struts and I'm going to use 20x40thou strip for the undercarriage legs.

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  3. I've got a couple of the Airfix jigs. They came with the Pup and are best suited for scout size. I have made larger versions from cardboard but I have to admit I like lined paper as a guide.

     

    The C1 inches forward and I've got a windscreen and the rear gun ring in place plus Franz has now joined Emil on board. Upper wing was successfully made whole by adding two 2.5mm lengths of 20x40 strip to act as spars. cement to get an attachment and fiddle time to make sure the wing was level and CA to secure the connection. It's now cemented in place using two struts and I'm going to add the outers next and get a secure fix. It looks like I'm going to have to reposition the front cabane struts as they are too far forward.

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  4. Have resumed work on this one today. Got distracted by what was supposed to be the fall back build while paint dried. Not much to add but I've attached the radiators and drilled the location holes for the struts. Windscreen and cabanes will be next, not forgetting some rigging holes before the lower wings are attached.

     

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  5. Getting into the part that makes the kit start to look like an aeroplane. Usual make do support structure while the wings set. Have to be careful but I used a thin smear of poly cement to allow wiggle time to get the wing butt into place. Then I allowed it to tilt over so I could add CA gel which firmed the joint lovely. When the wings were in place I realised the elevators weren't straight so remedial work was required. The upper wing halves are joined together by two strips of 20x40 card as the spars. I hope they'll be strong enough to handle as one wing is easier to position than separate wings that seem to have minds of their own.

     

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  6. On 4/12/2021 at 7:17 PM, Marklo said:

    Yes apparently it got to 60m then promptly crashed.

     

     

    I did actually find a webpage with a 1/144 scratch build if it. If were to build one I’d probably stick to that or maybe 1/72 ( but it would be about 15 inches at that scale)

    I'd go for it. Spanwise it's less than the Airfix 0/400 which scales at nigh enough 17 inches. Mind you there can be hidden costs when the big boys are tackled. I have Zeppelin Staakens in the stash, span 23 inches, and a scratch built DFW R1 on the shelf which is also 17 inches. Not forgetting a Roden Felixstowe flying boat. No way these get built and displayed on normal shelves so I had to treat myself to some easy build industrial shelving for the man cave. Best of luck and I'm enjoying the Oertz and having similar thoughts to Phoenix.

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  7. Similar thing happened to me. I painted an Airfix Camel brown using Humbrol paint. Not sure which, might have been HU113 or whatever the equivalent was about ten years ago, but there is no doubting it is a shade of brown. Photos came out brown but some had a definite green tinge. Could have been the flash but as I've always been a brown PC10 advocate it made me think.

  8. Great work so far Ray. The Roden seems to be prone to lower wing droop but I see this one has a centre section which I would imagine will provide more support. As for glue hardening in the metal delivery tubes I have a simple solution but as no one has mentioned it I'm wondering if I'm doing something terribly wrong. I heat the tip of the tube with a lighter flame. The glue burns off and normal service resumes.

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  9. mbHJ79S.jpg

     

    I ran out of suitable iron crosses which led to a slow down in production. I made the ear type side radiators. There are sections on the card that have grille patterns to use. I shaped a couple and added 10 thou strips to the outer edges and a couple of pieces of strip as the base which allows a gap between the radiator and the fuselage. Apparently this gap improved the efficiency compared to earlier sorts used on the Roland's for instance. An over engine reservoir is again required and this one is a slightly different design. It was shaped from a bit of card and sits on rod pipes.

     

    I have built WW1 kits for close to fifty years but still regard rigging as a chore which I try to keep to an acceptable minimum.

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    Working my way through the tricky bits before adding the wings. Tail units are butt jointed with struts supporting the elevators. Evergreen 20 thou rod which is also what I used to make the cabane framework. The side radiators are provided as a single piece but the individual units can be separated for better effect and then the water pipes are added to the rear. The side radiators require a water reservoir which sits over the top of the engine. In this case it is simply a pipe which only needed a piece of 35 thou rod. A single pipe at the front and two at the rear complete the layout. I've drilled some rigging holes in the fuselage and hopefully can get the lower wings on soon.

     

    Ian, I like Joystick and think they are compare with the better Formaplane. The early types, such as the Lloyd CII and this kit lack white metal engines but I think most modellers will find enough kit to be able to build something half decent.

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  11. On 4/7/2021 at 9:59 PM, pheonix said:

    Just found this Steve. I too have followed some of your vacuform builds over the years and must write how I respect the way in which you turn lumps from plastic sheet into very good models. This one looks as though it will be very similar.

     

    PS I thought that the character in the Airfix Hannover was Frederik.

    Thanks Steve, you should really try one. BTW Franz und Emil are the observer and pilot respectively. My source is PM Grosz of WSDF fame. Frederick is probably a von somebody.

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  12. 16 hours ago, pheonix said:

    Just seen this Steve - see my post in the chat thread.

     

    I have one of these on my to do list (scratch builds), and am interested to see how this comes together. Did you replace the engine in the end or just tart up modify the kit parts?

     

    P

    It's a tart up as I've ran out of engine parts, for example the half Roden pieces that were left over from the Austro Daimler/Mercedes choices in the Albatros D kits. There is a kit supplied white metal exhaust which is handy because it is not the normal run of the mill pipework. As I had spare manifold pipes from a conversion the decision was made to spruce up the kit moulds. Seemed the easiest option.

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  13. Resin tended to take over from vac form. As with all genres there are good and bad but the best are excellent. However, personally, I find them expensive and struts and undercarriage tend to need replacing. That makes them little different from vac forms. If you compare Joystick, for example, to some of the East European resin makers they are often half the price.

  14. Thanks Adrian. Most of these aircraft had natural wood fuselages so I'm going for that. I have been using Revell SM382 to replicate ply recently, particularly on Austro Hungarian types. Using a dry brush with paint only on the tip I lightly tap the surface to try and get a wood effect. This time I would like to get something nearer to the warm yellow description hence the addition of HU 7. My colour guide is the WSDF 77.

     

    Regards, Steve

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  15. Thanks Ray. Many years ago after working my way through the Revell and Airfix WW1 ranges I discovered vac forms and aircraft I'd never heard of. Have been a fan ever since.

     

    Got the fuselage together and am going with a sky camouflage pale blue with grey top surfaces. First coat on but think the second should be a little darker.

     

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  16. On 3/27/2021 at 10:34 PM, leyreynolds said:

    Thanks DC.

     

    So if the PV-6 was converted from a Wapiti, can the kit be converted to a Wapiti?

    It has been the go to kit for a Wapiti for decades. This was posted about six months ago in the WIP section.

     

     

  17. A little progress to report. Cockpit internals installed. Extras include a control column and rudder pedals from spares. I'd have liked a control wheel but there's none left and tiny wheels would drive me to distraction. In the rear cockpit I've added a flip up seat and a black box to act as the radio. Gunner is Franz from the Airfix Hannover. The upper section of the engine is also in place and the wings are going to get another coat of Spanish Blue.

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  18. Hi All,

             While waiting for paint and filler to dry I decided to start another kit as I usually have a couple on the go. My shelves are short on early German designs so I've gone with one of the early C types. I've built Joystick before and been quite impressed. To date there has been cockpit floors and seats etc and strut material. Mine have had white metal parts although not all have the engine. This kit is one of them and has the cylinders as part of the fuselage mould. I've got spare manifolds and there is a white metal exhaust so I'm going to try and improve on the original cylinders. There are Iron Cross transfers and touch wood those previously supplied have been ok. Made a start with the cockpits. Added a seat for the observer, three sprue ends as magazines and a piece of sprue to represent a hand held camera.

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    Have made a start and cut out the main parts. The lower wings are painted using Hu 65 Spanish Blue which isn't a bad match to the WSDF colour patterns. Internally there is a floor with a petrol tank and the seat sits on top. Three bulkheads will come in handy and I'll probably add some strip to aid with aligning the fuselage halves. White metal parts include the prop and spinner, exhaust, axle claw brake and a spandau and parabellum. No ring for the latter but I have a spare. There is also a Benz engine but I'm going to model the winter version which has most of the engine hidden behind the raised cowling. I'm saving the Benz for another project so I'm going to use the cylinders and tappets from an Eastern Express Starstrutter. These just have to show a little above the top of the wind guards so should be ok. I'm going to crew up so I'm not going overboard with the internals.

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