Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

80 Good

1 Follower

About styreno

  • Rank
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

926 profile views
  1. styreno

    Ju 52 SCW

    Orso: I used the Heller kit as it was in my stash I've robbed an Airfix kit of the spats. This is a project that started life as a Ju 52 bomber, but stalled for several years as I could not find aftermarket resin to do the ventral gondola (I know, Owl had it included in another set,, but now OOP). I'd still like a Ju 52 bomber in my collection. The cargo door was not a problem. Owl included a resin passenger door (not used) and replacement panel for the starboard freight door. Although the corrugatiions are not a perfect match, they are close, and I can live with them. Scribing the starbord door is a simple job, using the PE template supplied. Heller has given the modeller the option of clear rear windows, or clear pieces with corrugations and a clear circular centre. I think a small amount of thinned putty and paint will work well here. KE
  2. styreno

    Ju 52 SCW

    Thanks for replying, Artie and Orso. I'm leaning towards a dull silver-grey as a compromise. KE
  3. styreno

    Ju 52 SCW

    Starting to plan the paint for a Ju 52 in SCW period. I have the Owl decals, and am using a 1/72 Heller kit as the basis. I plan on doing 22*101. https://eshop.owl-czech.eu/detail/1-72-ju-52-spanish-transport/ I have not been able to find a photograph of the specific airplane. The Owl instructions seem to indicate RLM 63, but I wonder if L40/52 would be a better match? I've checked the the M. Ullmann book as a reference, without much joy. Any assistance or help much appreciated. KE
  4. Cannot comment further on the Shark colours, but as I have just recently completed this model, I can pass on my observations. My model was a Russian re-pop, with Frog decals (in surprisingly good condition). Flash was pronounced, and required care in removal. After prep, the parts were in fair condition, with the exception of the struts, which tended to be warped (curved). Engine is no more that a flat plate with a some lines on it. I substituted a discarded engine from a Frog/Academy Wildcat (14 cylinder P&W). Assembly went together well, until time to assemble the upper wing and the rest of the airframe. Because it has Warren Truss struts, it is not possible to block the assembly between the wings to provide alignment. Additionally, the struts did not seem to be of the correct length, with indefinite location holes in the wings. Consequently, the final assembly was really inaccurate, with the upper wing exhibiting a negative angle of attack. At this point, quite dismayed, I removed the upper wing. Both upper and lower were dissasembled into inner and outer parts, and reassembled as a folded wing model to hide the wing problem. I have since read on-line of others having this problem, so it may not be exclusively my fault. To avoid repeating my mistake and to assemble in flight mode, I would attempt to start joining the upper wing to the fuselage at the carbane struts, ensuring parallelism of upper and lower wing. It may be necessary to fabricate ALL the struts afresh, as the model parts are a bit dodgy. It results in a rather nice model, despite my problems, and if the wing configuration can be solved, a unique addition to an FAA collection. I, too, would like to find a canopy (plus alternate engine, cowling, prop) to do an RCAF version. Maybe someone will manufacture resin and vac parts in the near future. Good luck with your build. KE
  5. 72 Modeller - the Merlins are narrower and less deep in profile than the Hercules. Consequently, on the upper side of the wing, the fairings aft of the in-line installation are smaller in length, height and width by a significant amount. I'm not sure about the underside details. You would need to completely modify the wing/engine fairing shape to get a Mk. II from a Mk. I. I've contemplated doing this conversion, and keep coming back to the High Planes kit as the only sensible route. KE
  6. http://www.cmrmodels.co.uk/cmr72-234/blackburn-b46-firebrand-tf-mkv'mk5.html Go to the bottom of the page, and click on the linked images. There are several drawings that should give you the dimensions. KE
  7. I've built the Scimitar and the Hornet NF . More challenging than conventional injection styrene kits, but highly detailed models that makes effective use of P/E and cast metal parts. As noted, the canopies are the weakest part of the kit. Mine have yellowed, and there are no aftermarket replacements. I would suggest finding alternative decals. As far as accuracy, at the time of issue, they were representative of accepted standards, but some quibbles have since been voiced (see previous comments). I believe the canopy of the Hornets to be the most disputed area. Certainly worth building, but some modelling skill required.
  8. styreno

    Me 262 colours

    Thank you Troy. Those two photos are a great reference.
  9. styreno

    Me 262 colours

    I realize that this a recurrent question, but with the advent of the Airfix Me 262, I think pertinent. I am having trouble with two specific colours, RLM 81 and RLM 82, as applied to Me 262 airframes late in the war, 1944/5. I have seen photos of reconditioned museum examples, and the paintwork is quite bright, especially the light green 82. I also have Ullman's treatise Luftwaffe Colours, and have referenced IPMS Stockholm. Nothing agrees. Is there an authoritative answer, or at least consensus, as to the hue and shade of these two colours? Can it be stated as an FS number? Is/are there commercial model paints that come close? I notice that Airfix quotes #251 for RLM 81, and #252 for RLM 82. Close?
  10. styreno

    Spitfire to Seafire

    A few years ago, before there were any Seafires OOB available, I embarqued on a conversion build, for the Merlin Seafires. Albeit in 1/72, you may find the process helpful. https://modelingmadness.com/others/features/elliottseafire/elliotseafirefeature.htm Styreno
  11. Martian: photo from Sturtivant as requested. Enhanced contrast as the printed image is very low-res.. and profile from the M. Willis publication Blackburn Skua & Roc (which was not yet out when I made the model. I may have selected a different scheme than I did. Floats colour?????) BlackAck - From Sturtivant, the following list are Rocs fitted with floats. Not necessarily all-inclusive. L3057; 3058; 3059; 3060; 3069; 3084; 3091; 3100; 3109; 3148 I may have more background in an old HD. I did the research and made the model ages ago (when the Frog Skua was the only option). Opening a mouldy can of worms
  12. It appears that you've found my attempt to produce a 1/72 Roc TT floatplane. http://www.ipmscanada.com/ipms/Member Models/Elliott/Elliott_Page/RocTT.html. Base kit was a Frog Skua, with resin wings and tailplanes. Floats, naturally, came from the Frog Shark. Strutting was modified Shark bits. Canopy, a vac, source long forgotten. Internal detail was improvised, as I could find no references. Colours and markings based on a photo in Sturtivant's Squadrons's of the F.A.A., 1st edition, of L3100, as a landplane, 773 NAS, Bermuda, 1943. This was the subject of much debate on the defunct FAASIG web forum (so many years ago). As with so many obscure 2nd line types, impossible to be 100% certain of colours. You are not alone in attempting this one Martian, just the first in 1/48 that I'm aware of. KE
  13. Thanks all for the sensible suggestions. Assembling the complex pattern of the no-walk areas from straight-line decal I do find a bit daunting Yes, I have heard that the Print Scale products can be finicky; I have used one of their sheets and the individual decals were extremely fragile, tending to fold over on themselves. Otherwise good. KE
  • Create New...