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mickcpl

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    Bury

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  1. After several days , allowing the decals to dry and second coat of gloss to completely dry. Next step is to seal it all with Vallejo Matt thinned with Tamiya thinners. The Flory wash really shows up well Could not help myself, had to make a start on the rigging. Grey hair courtesy of my old cat, not mine!
  2. Onwards all glossed with decals on .I have had problems trying to get a good gloss finish over the years , until I started using. Valleyo gloss varnish. Comes in a 500ml.bottle purchased from Amazon. Thinned with Tamiya thinners. Good 'ole Flory wash .....
  3. The mask is called Parafilm "M" . Can be stretched and moulds perfectly to delicate surfaces leaving no residue.
  4. I have recently been a convert to using a black base with white marble effect over the top. For the the black I use Stynylrez Primer thinned with Medea airbrush cleaner (1/3), after a couple of days this is gently buffed with polishing cloths which reveals any highlights such as Rib tapes. Using Wingnuts own PC 10 mix XF62 (x2) + XF10 (x1) several light costs were airbrushed on then again buffed. Followed by final finishing coats. For the cockpit/engine exterior I thought paint instructions for Battleship Grey (dark & light) too dark. These were substituted with XF82 (dark) & XF75 (light). Liquid mask for the engine access panel much easier than using tape! Result, the rudder was painted as I find their decals a real pain when getting them to confirm around sharp edges.
  5. So good I have ordered one because of your build.
  6. Thanks guys they are such a pleasure to build. I know what you mean about the seat belts , rather big !
  7. Funny how time flies so here is an update. Getting the cockpit/engine assembly together really tried my patients, but won in the end. With all Wingnut kits there really is no need to glue it to the fuselage the fit is that good. The beauty of this kit is that most of this will still be visible when finished😀
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