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Greenshirt

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    Left side of the pond...
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  1. Wings spread and no tie downs tells me it’s shore based. Could be a photo at the factory before the recognition markings were added when it got to the Tico. just a thought. Tim
  2. I assume I missed it, but what’s with the 2 spinners? Tim
  3. I used the following Tamiya mix: XF-17:6 XF-8:6 XF-53:1 on my ArmaHobby FM-2 -- pic here: Tim
  4. I’m certain they did conduct flight ops just to keep the air wing and flight deck crews proficient. Likely every few hours each day they would turn into the wind, launch a flight, then recover a flight, then continue onward. Pilots in the air knew where to find the carrier at their scheduled return time. After a few days a carrier pilot can begin to feel rusty. A proficient flight deck crew can launch and recover 20 or so planes in 30 minutes. Safe ops requires a lot of practice. Tim
  5. When I built my Kate I worked w Nick Millman for paint info as well as read the latest on the J-Aircraft site. What I came up with made perfect sense given my background in Naval Aviation and carrier aircraft maintenance. All IJN carrier aircraft were an overall “gray” or Ameiro (that warm caramelly gray). Tactically the IJN planned to repaint their aircraft upper surfaces in a dark blue-green when hostibegan, so paint was onboard the carriers to make that happen. The low level aircraft such as torpedo bombers were indeed hastily given an upper surface coating of a dark green that was a blue green en route to Pearl Harbor. Because the paint was applied at sea, in a humid and salty environment it would not adhere as well to existing paint as properly applied paints (which take much longer to apply). This meant that any Kate that survived PH would begin to show wear on the green paint, with it peeling and flaking off. The amount of peeling/flaking would depend on length of time since PH as it appears touch ups were not done. The underlying Ameiro gray remained so when the green flaked off that became visible. Replacement Kates would receive upper surface green paint properly either at a maintenance unit or factory, so would not show peeling/flaking. I documented my build here at Greenshirt Modeler. A poor pic here:
  6. I think you meant May ‘41... I got the above from this site. Emphasis is mine. in 1/72 scale, the Admiral/AzModel Kit nr 7234 has markings for No 14 SFTS. I don’t have it, this is a build thread here. Tim
  7. Options for filling: 1. ⁠Water based acrylic fillers — can be brittle, but with practice you can fill and smooth with a wet finger. Sand dry w very fine sanding stick. 2. ⁠Primer — mask it off and spot apply. Then sand and polish. 3. ⁠Mr Surfacer — 500 for really deep scratches, 1500 for really fine ones. Buff and polish after a day or two of full curing. Might be able to use IPA to smooth it and keep out of panel lines. 4. ⁠Sprue goo — mix some sprue into some liquid cement like Tamiya extra thin. Keep adding sprue until it is a thick goo. Use a toothpick, apply a thin layer, let cure for 1-2 days until hard. Sand, buff, and polish. 5. ⁠CA — can be brittle, might not stick well. 6. ⁠CA mixed with baby powder — not as brittle, sands, buffs, and polishes well. Easy to rescribe through as it is not brittle. Must be sanded within 2-3 hours or it dries too hard to sand. For sanding marks, either Mr Surfacer or sprue goo are my two preferences, with sprue goo being my first choice. For filling gaps I like to press cut up bits of sheet styrene into the gap, snip off excess, spread some sprue goo, let is t set then sand it down. Tim
  8. Based in that lengthy thread I’d target a light chocolate brown. Either C43 or C310 with some white to hand if too dark. Tim
  9. Bird strike? Cowl doesn’t have chipping in the paint so I’d have to assume a soft mass, not a crunch on the flight deck. Tim
  10. Mr Color behaves similar to Tamiya as far as a paint goes. I cannot easily get Mr Color so I stick with Tamiya. I’ve never used White Ensign paints so cannot comment on it. For my build I masked, nothing freehand. My usual method when masking (or using salt in this case) is to thin about 4-6:1 thinner:paint and mist the color on in a number of coats until I like the opacity. PSI about 12-15, less if more thinned. I attempted to make mine have that bluish primer that has a metallic sheen look. I painted a silver then misted a very thin coat of Tamiya X-13. Tim
  11. My build of this subject also with the help of Nick a few years ago. I documented the colors I used in the link. I mixed my own Ameiro based on Nick’s suggestions, as well as creating a blacker blue-black for the cowling. For the uppersurface green I used Tamiya XF-11 IJN Green. For the interior I used XF-71 Cockpit Green, but once closed up it just looked dark in there as most of it is not visible unless you bring a magnifier and flashlight (hiss). Ultimately one of my better builds. It received a first place at MarauderCon in 2018. I’ve not matched that since. Tim
  12. I have a mental image of a [insert fighter-bomber here] rolling inverted, pulling its nose through the vertical to strike a target that it had just passed over. Pause this and insert the acrylic rod. The model can show off those rockets, bazooka tubes, or bombs to good effect but also show it in its most lethal pose, about to strike. I haven’t done one yet, but I want one of my Typhoons, Thunderbolts, Fw-190s, etc, in this manner. Tim
  13. HQT is their (AZ’s) molding technology. ISTR, and could remember wrongly, that it is a ceramic mold with a metal lining. Easy to make, longer run of sprue shots than a short-run but not as many with a classic steel mold.
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