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Greenshirt

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    Left side of the pond...
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    Do I need my umbrella?

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  1. My annual Airfix prediction list (unchanged since 2018 updated for 2023): TBF/M Avenger — I want a -1c but they’re more likely to do a TBM-3, their existing kit is long in the tooth, potentially lots of marking options TBD Devastator — more a hope than likely — it would start to fill in their short list of early US Pacific Theater subjects. D3A Val — Zero, Kate, Val is the trio for the early Pacific Theater. Just the one missing. Ju-88A-1/5 — if not already on the docket, likely never now that Revell released theirs. But it would complete the BoB bomber set. Removing this one as I doubt they’ll do it. A heavy — which one? Stirling would be out of left field. Hampden May be a better option. Battle — unlikely now that FFROM announced theirs. P-51B Mustang — won’t be better than Arma Hobby’s so they missed the opportunity. Yak-9 — for John Thompson Post war jet — I’m not enough of a jet guy to predict which one. Plus a few repops w new decals All 1/72 of course. In 1/48: Post WW2 RAF/FAA jet. Plus a few repops w new decals Tim Rarely right but never wrong.
  2. I wish I understood that. I do know a cuppa = tea, but no idea what the phrase infers. Tim (dense American)
  3. A friend of mine, who was a flight engineer, says the differences are internal. Some specific avionics are different and he thought an antenna might be different but he wasn’t sure of that. He’s a modeler and says the UK variant is close enough for his tastes in accuracy, which is usually quite high. Tim
  4. Well, I was able to recover 2 of the original 5 photos. I took a few quick pictures to salvage the post. Post is here. I confirmed the original photos for the earlier progress posts made it. Those posts are: 18/6/2011 - Spitfires 21/6/2011 - Spitfire Mk III radiator 15/2/2013 - Spitfire Mk III Redux 12/1/2014 - Spitfire III Part 3 Tim
  5. Ruh roh. I’m moving to a new site and trying to get my photos moved. I’ll be back soon when I find the originals and upload to the new site. Tim
  6. “Easy” is like most things with this hobby: do it enough and it is easy, do it once and it’s a challenge. Aircraft flying and landing wires (aka rigging) and control cables are quite thin, so modelers’ objectives are to get the thinnest possible solution that is also resilient enough to withstand the expected handling. There are a few ways to add wires to aircraft: ⁠Hair — dark, from an old hairbrush. Free. Stretched sprue — hold over heat and stretch as thin as possible. If too thin to use plastic cement it is likely thin enough. Free. Ceramic “wonder wire” — extruded wire that is very thin and retains its straightness if bent slightly but is very brittle so if bent too much will shatter. 2 lb fishing line — cheap. Invisible thread — thinnest you can find. Comes in “smoke” color which is best. Some are elastic. Nylon thread — you can take old pantyhose or nylons and pull individual threads out. Stretchy so it is a bit more forgiving of handling. Elastic Nylon thread for models — Uschi, Mig, or EZ Line. Come in a variety of sizes. I drill a tiny hole (not all the way through the plastic) just larger than the wire before assembly and paint so that it is ready for me to rig when assembly and decaling is finished. If using threads, I use medium viscosity CA (superglue) and accelerator. I use a very fine needle to apply the glue very precisely, then dip the end of the aerial in accelerator. Then I touch the end of the aerial to the CA and it sticks. I prefer Uschi so then repeat for the other end by putting a slight tension on it (I cut it short by about 1/8”). For sizes, I like 0.001 for aerial wires or control cables and 0.003 for bracing wires on 1/72. I size up for 1/48 or larger to 0.005 for bracing wires. I continue to use 0.001 for aerials as those are very small on the real thing. If using ceramic wire for interplane rigging (my current preference for 1/72) I simply trim each wire to just fit without a bend, then add a bit of thinned PVA to hold it. Tim
  7. Well, I’m glad I chose a different vac to start this year. looking forward to building this one! Tim
  8. Thanks for the shout out @Troy Smith. I finished my Mk III way back in 2016 and unfortunately it appears my photos disappeared from my blog. My approach was to use the M&S refs and pics, then chopped an Airfix 1/72 Mk Ia kit (newest tooling) at the firewall. I made a scale 4” plug and after it was sanded smooth I rescribed. I then replaced the windscreen from another kit to get the internal armored windscreen. Tailwheel came from the spares box (Academy XIVc ??). Wingtips were the easy mod. I chose the deeper radiator design with the boundary layer (?) splitter by making a box that was open on both ends, then mounting that to some sheet cut to fit the base of the radiator. It took 3 tries but the outcome was satisfying. Careful study of the limited refs did not convince me the cowls were different nor the thrust line changed. Just a simple shift forward of the engine on the existing thrust line and use of existing panels wherever possible. My thinking is that it would only require a minor lengthening of the mounts with a little strengthening plus longer sheet metal on the panels. Ultimately a mod similar to what resulted for the 2 stage Merlin Marks, and given the Mk III was related to that development it made some sense to me. it does stand out on my shelf. I’ve had more than one visitor ask if it was a Mk XIVa! Tim
  9. I would not. Both these colors are a bit darker and grayer than Non-specular Blue-Gray. Your favorite PRU Blue would be a much closer match. Mix I have used that looks okay to my eye: Non-Specular Blue-Grey From Tamiya Kit 61034: F4F Wildcat XF-18 MEDIUM BLUE: 3 XF2 - FLAT WHITE: 1 I would lighten it more for a well worn finish like at Midway or Guadalcanal. It faded quickly and unevenly. Tim
  10. As noted by others, rounded seat and Sutton harness. My handy notes on my iPad did not have that detail (does now), so I had to be vague. Easy enough in 1/72 to modify the kit seat. I prefer masking tape harnesses for 1/72 so I view that as easy as well. Tim
  11. From raf-112-squadron.org: My notes show similar info, indicating the Kittyhawk Ia was externally identical to the P-40E with 6 guns. Whether the SH kit will work, likely yes requiring only a more accurate harness, maybe a change of seat. I’m still dithering on that one. Tim
  12. @Ed Russell I’ll need 4 and will then hope I don’t find more Academy Cats in my stash. Tim
  13. According to Scalemates, there are 4 mainstream kits of the D3A in 1/72 scale. Airfix — from 1965. Also released by MPC, Plasty, Lodela, and Craft Master over the years. Lots of rivets but currently available. Fujimi — from 1985. I’ve built this one and it’s actually quite nice. Most of the cockpit cannot be seen through the small openings even though it has a greenhouse canopy. Cyber Hobby — from 2012. Also released by Platz recently. I’ve seen the sprues and it looks a bit fiddly. Ability to fold the wings and open the canopy. My experience with other Cyber Hobby kits is they don’t quite go together well and have to be treated as a short run kit. ZTS Plastyk — from 2005. Also released by MisterCraft. Parts breakdown is similar to Fujimi so it may be a clone but it is different in sprue layout. Additionally, there is a recognition model dated 1942. If you want one with folding wings, get the Cyber Hobby. Otherwise, the best OOB kit remains the Fujimi kit. We need a new kit of the Val in 1/72. It’s something Airfix should do given they’ve done the Kate and early Zero already and been on my wish list for Airfix for years now. Tim
  14. Well, I haven’t travelled much, missed 2 Telfords so far, so spending my travel money restocking my stash. Tim
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