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Greenshirt

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About Greenshirt

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    Lifelong - long lived!

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    http://greenshirt-modeller.blogspot.com
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    Male
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    Left side of the pond...
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    Do I need my umbrella?

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  1. Options for filling: 1. ⁠Water based acrylic fillers — can be brittle, but with practice you can fill and smooth with a wet finger. Sand dry w very fine sanding stick. 2. ⁠Primer — mask it off and spot apply. Then sand and polish. 3. ⁠Mr Surfacer — 500 for really deep scratches, 1500 for really fine ones. Buff and polish after a day or two of full curing. Might be able to use IPA to smooth it and keep out of panel lines. 4. ⁠Sprue goo — mix some sprue into some liquid cement like Tamiya extra thin. Keep adding sprue until it is a thick goo. Use a toothpick, apply a t
  2. Based in that lengthy thread I’d target a light chocolate brown. Either C43 or C310 with some white to hand if too dark. Tim
  3. Bird strike? Cowl doesn’t have chipping in the paint so I’d have to assume a soft mass, not a crunch on the flight deck. Tim
  4. Mr Color behaves similar to Tamiya as far as a paint goes. I cannot easily get Mr Color so I stick with Tamiya. I’ve never used White Ensign paints so cannot comment on it. For my build I masked, nothing freehand. My usual method when masking (or using salt in this case) is to thin about 4-6:1 thinner:paint and mist the color on in a number of coats until I like the opacity. PSI about 12-15, less if more thinned. I attempted to make mine have that bluish primer that has a metallic sheen look. I painted a silver then misted a very thin coat of Tamiya X-13. Tim
  5. My build of this subject also with the help of Nick a few years ago. I documented the colors I used in the link. I mixed my own Ameiro based on Nick’s suggestions, as well as creating a blacker blue-black for the cowling. For the uppersurface green I used Tamiya XF-11 IJN Green. For the interior I used XF-71 Cockpit Green, but once closed up it just looked dark in there as most of it is not visible unless you bring a magnifier and flashlight (hiss). Ultimately one of my better builds. It received a first place at MarauderCon in 2018. I’ve not matched that since. T
  6. I have a mental image of a [insert fighter-bomber here] rolling inverted, pulling its nose through the vertical to strike a target that it had just passed over. Pause this and insert the acrylic rod. The model can show off those rockets, bazooka tubes, or bombs to good effect but also show it in its most lethal pose, about to strike. I haven’t done one yet, but I want one of my Typhoons, Thunderbolts, Fw-190s, etc, in this manner. Tim
  7. HQT is their (AZ’s) molding technology. ISTR, and could remember wrongly, that it is a ceramic mold with a metal lining. Easy to make, longer run of sprue shots than a short-run but not as many with a classic steel mold.
  8. Downscale the P-38 or P-51B to 1/72. A boy can dream...
  9. I’m looking forward to the day I can safely travel domestically.
  10. I wish all judges did. On debrief my model of a Camel was dinged for having the wrong finish on the roundel. Photos showed it was either glossy or smooth, the camo being a matte and the contrast obvious. However I did not include that in the description and the judge assumed I did not know the “correct” finish. I haven’t competed since. Tim
  11. I’ve built a number of CMR resin Spitfire kits. I found them quite easy to build and a great entry into resin kits. The detail is quite good but the the smaller bits are very fragile. Filling may be necessary on the fuselage seams. I learned on my first one that using a CA+baby powder mix (my preference) was too hard and the resin gave before the filler. Since then I use car body fillers (bondo) and lacquer thinners to smooth and wipe away excess. Highly recommended (but I’ve not built the XII yet). Tim
  12. My navalised Mustang what-if follows a Seafire train of thought: Sea Mustang (Mustang V) — hooked Mustang IV. Essentially the mods done for testing but with a small production run. Seahorse I — Navalised Mustang sans folding wings Seahorse II - Add wingfold, rockets, bombs Seahorse III - Navalised P-51H but with Griffon engine, raise the cockpit for better approach visibility Seahorse IV - “Definitive” Griffon engined Seahorse w contra prop and other refinements Seahorse V — Dart powered Seahorse IV as interim until jet fighters arrived. Both Seah
  13. VF-3 would sport 3-F-# where # is the plane-in-squadron number. 1 means first aircraft (CO) Of first section and would have full red cowl ring, red chevron, and red fuselage stripe. Battle Efficiency E is/was unit wide. If Black it was usually specific to a sub area of the evaluation Like maintenance, red Usually being engineering (na for squadrons). If White outlined in black it was an overall measure of excellence in weapons delivery (guns & bombs), flight operations (formation flying plus ops at the boat — landing grades), and later included safety (mishaps) and maintenance (
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