Neo uk

A little update. There's a fair bit of plastic surgery required to fit these new aluminium joints. Replacing some of the missing edging, trapping the joint.

Here's a build I'm doing of K-2SO I'm using a Jakks Pacific Big Fig and adding parts to make it better, giving it a better paint job and changing the pose. After a lot of sanding and filing of the seams I gave it a coat of primer. Then I got busy with the lathe and machined some aluminium rod down to replace the hinges and joints. The first picture shows the replacement joints I made and then there's a couple of pictures of the old joints cut off and replaced with the new ones.

All bits present

Not really sure where to put this, so it might have to be moved to better suit the topic. I picked up this busted Predator Polystone Diorama off facebook recently. So I thought you'd like to see the process of repairing it.

Not really sure where to put this, so it might have to be moved to better suit the topic. I picked up this busted Predator Polystone Diorama off facebook recently. So I thought you'd like to see the process of repairing it.

The latest finished kit. Now I've got the tough decision of what to build next.

Or said something to me about it rather than me seeing it getting stripped and re-painted on a forum I'm on (where the original build up by me was posted) Cheeky turd.

No, I wish I was though. Bit of a kick in the teeth.

With all that work involved you might as well just sculpted the entire figure.

Must get mine out of the stash. Got to start building or selling

Starting mine now

He said he was happy with it Chris but had it stripped and re-painted within a couple of weeks.

Added back some of the detail that wasn't sharp enough for my liking.

Not really done much on this lately. Did sort out the flashing nav beacon for the back of the bridge area ( A deck ?) Rather than use a short length of optic fibre I wanted to use a LED so to get it small enough I put it in the chuck of my drill and reduced it down as far as I possibility could without hitting the element. The middle one was the successful one. You can just about see it poking up at the back.

After finding a new transparent dome of suitable curvature and persuading them to stick together, the end. Then comes the tedious masking procedure.

.Here's the next kit to land on my workbench. It's based on this publicitly photo

I'm doing different parts of the model once I feel I'm becoming bored with the piece I'm currently working on. Because I think this kit is primarily designed just to be built and painted there's a lot of work required to light it. Other than that nearly every part as needed work done on it in one way or another. Here's the impulse crystal photo etch cover. This consisted of two parts (inner ring with spokes and outer ring) that had to be soldered together.

I think with all the builds I've seen (that use photo etch parts) people put the slotted deflector ring on the outside. Looking again at the prop I noticed the it's not. So I cut out some semi transparent plastic from the bottom of a pot I had lying around, Here's the end result . I think I achieved the same look.

Started on the deflector dish now. I've got a lovely photo etch surround for this from the photo etch set by Eliot Brown. But because the kit part has a big thick ledge around it that wouldnt let light through (pic 1) I had to hollow it out. Once I'd finished with the heavy tools I then sanded the inside with my special improvised sanding tool. (pics 2-3)

Corrected

Not that I want to get into arguing with admins but were there any complaints out of the 577 people who've seen it ? It really wasn't that offensive (it's also another name for a donkey)

Well after hours and hours of sanding here's what I had. Test fitting the B deck I saved from the original. After hours and hours of panel scribing (I hate doing this). Any tips would be welcome.

I put up a wall around it a let the last layer just settle without touching it, to get it rally smooth.

The saucer is 20 inches across.

Next stage was to coat it in fibre glass mat and epoxy resin ( had to use epoxy as the other type would've melted the foam).