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Troy Smith

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Everything posted by Troy Smith

  1. I checked the instructions today, suggests a 1/4 oz of Plasticene for nose weight, which surprised me. Need a last seam check, did dip the canopy in Kleer, and then found it did not deal with the scratch, so had to polish that out. Had a go at painting the crew, they seem very small and not great mouldings... I did have a google to find out what night fighter crew wore, went for leather flight suits, and noticed the instructions call for this as well. Also been faffing about mixing up some RLM 76, (yes, I know it varied, but the more you go about mixing/matching colours, the better you get at it) though I have a very old pot of Aeromaster RLM 75 which is spot on match to the 72nd scale faded chip in the Monogram Guide to painting German Aircraft. thanks for reading cheers T
  2. This is a pic I found online, not very large, but does show the Merlin 29, which has what I presume is the generator in the same place this is at the NASM, model not listed. Not having much luck find a decent pic of a Merlin 29 Any Merlin 29 pics in the file @dogsbody @Carl V?
  3. This is what I think is the answer, just a different set up on the Merlin 29. Needs a bit more research, what is odd is how this does not seem to have been noticed before. I'm sure it has been, just not noted in the usual places. Next on is what the other tubes/rods are....
  4. from @airjiml2 blog https://www.ascalecanadian.com/2015/06/the-sea-hurricane-in-canada.html these look to be the DH Hurricane prop/spinner interestingly there is some colour film of these Sea Hurricanes. see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8ui1Wt9Nc this is a still Canadian Sea Hurricane Mk.Ib. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr the other footage in the film has been discussed on here as well, @Adrian Hills this looks again to be standard Canadian factory finish. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235049441-canadian-hurricane-5656/ the other is this https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235049405-hurricane-footage-on-youtube-desert-scheme-repaints-in-colour/
  5. 1362 is a Mk.I, they were the only ones fitted with Battle props, and you can see the cowl fasteners, only 4 5624 is a Mk.XII
  6. I have a aviation mag (Flypast? it was a freebie from someone) that Ray Hanna thought the La-9 was better than Sea Fury and Bearcat! Neat model
  7. AFAIK the standard factory finish on all (except for the very first batch) Canadian built Hurricanes was Canadian made Dark Green/Dark Earth/ Sky, the first batch had aluminium undersides. A few later were Green/Grey, as mentioned in that Random Thoughts Canadian IPMS pdf you have, but I'll @dogsbody @airjiml2 @Carl V if they know any more. HTH
  8. Hmm, just spotted this on Screwfix site https://www.screwfix.com/p/zep-hardwood-laminate-floor-refinisher-gloss-1ltr/5758j from the reviews, high gloss, fills scratches, sound liek it's the may do the same job. Not tried it, only just seen it, but maybe worth investigating... Hmm.. my kitchen floor needs rejuvenating so I might get some for that and see if it has any bonuses
  9. Troy Smith


    I'd disagree, they work just fine, but do need more coats. I use Screwfix No Nonsense satin multiple coats, thin with a little water, rub down with a worn sanding block. between, then wipe with a damp microfibre, apply next coat as soon as touch dry if you can, (in warm weather this can as little as 10 mins) as not fully cured, it bonds to the previous coat. Do 7/8 coats, when cured is gives a very tough but soft to the touch wipe clean finish. I did a stair handrail, (more coats, maybe 15 ) and a old coffee table my daughter used for years as a little table, still going strong with another little girl now. Both high wear/use and it worked really well. Easy clean up. Did the hardwood parquet like this as well, 7 coats, good tough finish. If on bare wood the first couple can raise the grain a little, but this soon goes with added coats. Same deal with for acrylic paint indoor and out. Not great if you want a high gloss though. I like the satin finish personally. DIY tip, if you want to match some woodwork with the walls, or just want a little of a colur you have as an emulsions (eg a tester pot) adding acrylic varnish to emulsion turns it into acrylic paint. Alkyd products have their uses. but I use acrylic when I can. I just did a neighbours dormer window that gets a lot of weather, so used oil, reminded me how much I dislike using it and clean up. Same deal with model paint, I see "acrylic are crap" on here frequently, just you need to know how to use them. funnily enough I just spotted this on Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/zep-hardwood-laminate-floor-refinisher-gloss-1ltr/5758j sounds like another take on Kleer/Future...anyone tried it yet?
  10. These two are only Hobbycraft, and the moulds are 'lost' . They never got re issued by Academy. The Sea Fury was about cheap 10 years ago in a Kitech box. The Hurricane is now fairly rare. The Hurricane has it's points, but the Sea Fury compared to the Airfix kit is like a 72nd kit scaled up, as is the Hurricane. One ex Hobbycraft (now Academy) that is better shape wise then the modern Hobby Boss kit is the F8F Bearcat Not very accurate, very basic. The Gavia/Eduard La-7 is not ideal but is a lot better,. and not likely to be much more in cost. maybe the best of the bunch, but again, not cheap. There are wat be I-16 kits for not much more. The two real contenders are the Corsair and Hellcat, but again, we run into my 'false economy' equation. While both are really well shaped, and have engraved panels, but you can find a Tamiya Corsair for under £20 and a weekend Eduard Hellcat for similar, I know the Otaki kits got reboxed by ARRI, Matchbox and Airfix, but unless they are like £5, why bother unless you want a shelf model. Other kits, Eg Spitfire VIII, Bf109G, fw190, again, all can be got in Eduard weekend boxings and they just leave them in the dust... I see the Eduard Bf109 G6AS and G-10 weekend kits for £15-18, while not perfect, a lot of bang for your buck. Some good and still still fairly cheap new, Hobby Boss Fw190D family, and and Me262 family. I believe that their MiG-17 is decent as well. Notable oldie. Monogram F-80 Shooting Star, but not so easy to get these days. One final point, well worth keeping track of kits that have useful leftovers, which can act as 'free AM' for older ones. Edaurd are particulary good for this, you could say use a load of the alternate Spitfire parts to greatly improve a ICM Spitfire (wheels, gear legs, canopies, exhausts for example) Sorry to whine on, but back to kit research. Find out what in the box, and what you want, and take it from there.
  11. Really, I'd go on a case by case basis. Personally I like research, and kit hunting... and now have way too many... and you can always ask here for specifics, apologies if stating the obvious, the site search is not great, but adding Britmodeller into a google search term works very well. For your specifics, it's worth having an idea of what you are looking for in case you run across one, while ebay has got expensive, it's worth having a look though what is being listed, get an auction sniper and take a punt at something that catches your fancy. The sniper means you walk away without getting into a bidding war, you might win, but you will have already decided what is your maximum price. Bear in mind that kits went really high in price with lockdown, and some will end up being flogged as not of interest, and sadly seems we maybe in for a recession, you may find the price will drop, supply and demand... so you may find some new kits at a good price, plus there are new kits that are under £30 and just leave anything else standing, like a Eduard weekend MiG-21 .... again, here, research is the key. Beware of false bargains, a £25 Eduard MiG-21 is always going to be better that a £15 Academy MiG-21 for what you get, in the same way a Edaurd Spitfire VIII/IX/XVI just leaves everything else in scale way behind, so while you can get an ICM IX for under £10... the weekend Eduard kit can be got £15 and is more than £5 better... Always worth asking here in the wanted section, some folks may have an older kit an now have the newer one... and scour our sale pages,(set up an alert for new listings) I have had many a great deal from here. If not afraid of a bit of work, then look for some of the better vac forms, for example I have seen the Aeroclub Canberra for sale for under £30, and I gave a low whistle when I opened mine up, I suspect it's the best Canberra in scale. (main parts have with great detail and then a mix of low pressure plastic, white metal and resin, it was £40+ when available 20 years ago....) Other would be kits that that have been superseded, say the Dynavector Sea Vixen or Javelin. I'd suggest making a list of subject you would like and see what the 'hive mind' turns up, some good suggestions already. Bear in mind that older kits may have poor decals, so 'a bargain' may not be if you need new decals.... but, again, you can always hunt, or ask for decals here. HTH ... (or confession a stash-a-holic...)
  12. Thank you Giorgio... Now we know where HR Geiger got his idea for the pilot of the derelict ship in Alien from...
  13. Study photos Chris less facetiously, I find doing guns in Tamiya Nato Black (dark grey w hint of green) or Rubber Black (dark grey w hint of blue)md then go over over the paint with a soft pencil seems to work. This is how I did the Bren gun. I think the base is NATO black (and before I remembered the trick of making ultra matt varnish..add talc) HTH
  14. Hi Gary, meant to post in the GB chat, but re the kit, first, internal colors, see There are also some areas to watch in construction, I think filler could be reduced with a load careful trimming, scraping and shimming... Having dug the remains out a while back this is what I thought these days, I'd certainly check the fit of the nacelles to the wings, and the wing/fuse joint. I'd suggest NOT gluing the wing leading edge inboard of the nacelle, and add ledge on the fuselage wing section, for the wing to sit on, as otherwise you get a step, and a lot of filling to blend. the other is scrape and adjust the nacelle to lower wing, as that was another troublesome area finally, check the fit of the canopy and nose glazing early on, before joining the fuselage halves, as they might need a shim to fit properly. finally... the turret, is made of sections of clear perspex glued together, like the B-25 Turret, what you sometimes see in photos that look like frame or panel pane lines are the opaque glue joints. There are no frame lines. it's all clear! PS edit see this post, and the subsequent ones on fit, and suggestions https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234921509-148-revell-b-26b-marauder-finished/page/2/#elControls_1081288_menu regarding is that not the missing bit of tail one of the 3 loose parts between the wings, above the clear part, the top left loose bit??
  15. Based on the Scale Bureau kit (without permission) IIRC. As is the Ark kit. Then the Mikromir is not for you. It's all a bit vague in positioning, the resin all came out before the Ark kit. I do know that the plastic wheel well or kit wing roots both need a massive amount of thinning to get anywhere, and it's classic short run moulding. No real location marks for the cockpit. I got bored doing the preparation and it awaits a return of enthusiasm... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234976991-mikro-mirs-new-la-11-148th-scale-in-box-review/#elControls_1905213_menu "One of the chaps at hyper scale reported a serious fit issue withthe wheel bay insert fouling the wind to fuselage join. So yesterday I thought I'd see - and he was spot on correct: It doesn't fit, full stop. After 2 hours of non stop cutting, sanding, filing, pairing, more cutting, more sanding etc, I got it to fit, but BE WARNED - if you have this model or intend to buy it - tackle this area first. Basically you'll need to reduce the height on the wheel well insert, thin down the plastic on the top so it's wafer thin, then thin down the plastic on the underside of the fuselage wing root flanges, and then remove a lot of plastic from the inside of the lower fuselage halves: Then it will fit!! Just!!" This is not a joke. it's a lot of work. re the Ark kit https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235066815-148-lavochkin-la-9-fritz-la-11-fang-by-ark-models-la-9-la-11-released/page/3/#elControls_3822703_menu "The Scale Bureau mathematical model (as it is written in the original - note from me ) was used, which was reworked for high pressure injection molding. All errors and inaccuracies were corrected. Which are still present on the so-called cut-star analogue*, which is, in fact, a (not) cheap replica of the resin model ( Scale Bureau - note from me) , reworked by "cunninghand" (as it is written in the original - note from me ) craftsmen for low pressure casting." From this message it follows that all La-9/11 models are based on the same mathematical model first implemented in a resin kit from Scale Bureau La-9/11, which was then "creatively" (according to the author of the cited post) copied with all errors in short-run model from MicroMir, but in ArkModels all errors in the original mathematical model have been corrected. You posted in the linked thread. The Hobby Boss most likely will build well, but is based on whatever drawings HB could find online, which was also discussed here extensively. (even though they have them in museums..) From re-reading the linked thread, bets bet is to start with the Ark kit, and see how much the panel lines annoy you. may well be a case that Mr Surfacer in them and some sanding will reduce them quite easily. HTH
  16. I don't know that cakes were all that really... just those of certain age have these literary creations lodged in collective unconscious... which you can share as well.
  17. They work very well, but they are not the same as enamel paint. Expect them to be and they will be 'useless' I brush them, as do others on here, but you need to know how they work. Small flat brush, thin coats, but as they dry fast, you can do that quickly. Yes, they are fragile, and I find they work best over a thin primercoat of Tamiya acrylic which has a bit more 'bite' , as yes, they do not stick to plastic but form a thin film. The fragility ceases to be a problem once varnished. This is all brush painted with Vallejo Model Color (though i did have to mix the colours) except the UC legs and tyres which are Tamiya. Absolutely they won't do some thing older enamels will do, and i have plenty of old kits and bits done in those, and they were very forgiving, tough one coat finish.... paint white over black, but unless I want to go hunting on ebay for vintage paint, they are unavailable now. but I also don't have to deal with a tiresome clean up, I just used some oil paint on a neighbours window, and that reminded me why I avoid them if possible. They started to me make feel sick, and I was working outside. I do use lighter fuel, but in tiny amount, and it does not have the same heavy odour. But, again, this is why I have my sig line. I have seen several members here complain about acrylics, in the same way I know a painter and decorator who does not like acrylics, while they are my default decorating choice. Hope of interest.
  18. A look at the Mk.I manual shows a what looks to be the same controller, so I think this applied to all marks. Bear in mind the Hurricane airframe was nearly all the same from early 1940 onwards. by this, apart from changes to the engine and systems, and armament fit and systems, nothing else changed. @dogsbody has a decent photo of a Canadian Mk.I cockpit that might show this, but given it's postion, starboard cockpit wall just behind the IP, it's not often photographed. it's item 62 in in this image from the Mk.II pilots notes @Black Knight Thanks for the info on the morse, a detail I'd not really thought about.
  19. AFAIK a position light. Small clear from the amazing walkround here my only complaint is is not a Mk.Ia ..... just Mk.I
  20. Neat base, but not like anything I have seen on British BoB airfield... this is likely meant to be for a Eastern Front/Russian forward strip. .... if you have a printer, and like playing with photos, ther is a site, Geograph, that has photos of all of the UK, I spent some time hunting for backdrop images, and there are masses on here for example, I put castle Camps into search (used a satellite airfield for RAF Debden in 1940) this one https://m.geograph.org.uk/photo/3480710 if you look for more sizes here https://www.geograph.org.uk/more.php?id=3480710 you can get high res images, print out over a few sheets, trim the foreground, a bit of grass matting, and a neat back drop I just stuck 'airfield' into search this is neatly neutral, and a good British summer backdrop https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6479922 or https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2443364 you get the idea. I've not around to getting some printed out, you have seen my 'hi-tech' background of faded card table and out of focus park/trees.... Just a suggestion HTH
  21. Dark Green I suspect... Look at the canopy frame, above, and here, also not the lighter tone of the underwing of JV*- compared with JV*I /BP158... could be shadow.... of JV*- was delivered in TLS ,and had had the Dark Green replaced with Middle Stone, and the serial left in a patch of Dark Green with the undersides staying Sky or Sky Blue ? Bear in mind they were being used at low level, and the film is from when they were training. Hmm.... BP188.... a pic we all know and the main discussion is if the Z is red or black , and this makes a good case for black.... but Now look again, at the canopy frames, is this another previously TLS plane still with Dark Green canopy framing, Also, note the 'border' between the DE/MS by the serial. Finally there appears to be a name (?) beneath the cockpit as well. Any ideas? Also From @Geoffrey Sinclair production list, BP131 is a IID, and the Air Britain BP131 6/FE SOC 22.2.45 Makes more sense, as in BP131 is IID, as opposed to being listed as a IIC... This maybe of use as well, from the 1974 PSL Hurricane book, to1/24th scale. Only drawing I have seen showing the rear D door, as opposed to the C wing so many books show (again, an error repeated in the recent Valiant Wings book) cheers T
  22. Note, they just supply a C wing, you need to fill a couple of panels and adjust the underwing a bit, the Fly kit provides a new wing. see here https://flic.kr/p/Wc69cX Varies. They were supplied with light blanking plates. Sometimes one, sometimes both. May depend on what scheme. There are other apart from BP188... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235071194-hurricane-iid-6-squadron-leading-edge-wing-stripe-and-some-marking-observations/ Very neat work on the Fly kit Bruce,
  23. I remember trying to build an Airfix Firefly using Copydex* .... But I was 7 and it was the only glue in the house..... Another retro kit I picked up to actually build properly... . PS *For those not of a certain age or not in the UK, Copydex is a rubber latex glue, not unlike liquid mask solutions, and I think can be used in place of them.
  24. An Airfix magazine annual in the late 1970s did a Mk.IX conversion, using the two stage Merlin engine from the 1/24th Mustang which I suspect maybe part of the source here. Very neat work @Grizly, be great to see some close up shows of the engine and details of the conversion.
  25. Try seeing if they mix. You can then vary what you want, making use of both their properties. , I use glue mixes, say brush on some TET, and then use a some tube glue, TET will thin tube glue, (it's just the little tubes from Airfix starter packs, but works well) , Or use a little tube glue to make initial join, giving you a bit of bond ad wiggle room, and when setting, use capillary action of TET make a stronger join, it will slightly reactivate the tube stuff. Sometime I even just run a little bead straight out of the tube... proper old school. A little TET then brushed on can even out the tube glue. HTH
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