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Troy Smith

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Everything posted by Troy Smith

  1. The XVIII did not carry rockets IIRC, it was already carrying a 6 pdr gun with ammo feeder! They may have carried slipper tanks. I have Tse Tse monograph so can check later.
  2. This sets alarm bells ringing. If it listed BS283, with the FS595 in brackets.... but a look at epaint https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp?cRange=BS+381C&cRef=BS381C+283&cDescription=Aircraft+grey+green 34226 Nasa Primer is listed as "noticeably different" in the link. Anytime I now a see a paint being listed with FS595 for a WW2 RAF colour I'm wary. to have a BS381c/FS595 is also a a cause for concern. It may well be fine. Some of Mig Ammo 'matches' were seriously wrong, the pics have not gone. This is what was used in this build, and it look OK. from https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235060825-172-airfix-lancaster-as-w4308-uv-c-for-charlie-lost-23-january-1943/page/2/#elControls_3541749_menu HTH
  3. A question, you list 36186 Olive brown as RAL 7008. RAL 7008 is listed as Khaki Grey https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-7008-khaki-grey RAL 8008 is listed as Olive brown https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-8008-olive-brown the Revell sites does not list a RAL code https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/colors-accessories/aqua-colours/aqua-color-olive-brown-matt-18ml.html I ask as RAL8008 is the colour used by the Israeli AF in the blue/brown scheme of the late 1950's to late 1960's , so which is 36186? Thank you
  4. try mixing some H 11 silver in, or white. Or both. or add some pale grey or white to silver 11. Pre war period colour. This is what you are aiming for Early Spitfire at Hornchurch 1939. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Spitfire Mk. I by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Good. if it works for you, I have an airbrush, but as that's another learning curve, I use brushes. For acrylic I have found a small flat brush works well, no idea about enamel but maybe worth trying. careful thinning and multiple thin coats. Some colours are just hard work to brush, like white and yellow, which you may need a primer for. HTH
  5. pleasure to have helped, it was an interesting bit of digging about as well. Build has turned out superbly. cheers T
  6. I'd suggest you idea of a practicing on a scrapper first is wise, it's what I do to get an idea of how it works. Just to note, I was trying to make the Jeep and truck look like they had a good coating of summer dust that had been rainwashed off at points as well in Normandy, aiming for chalky dust, Normandy is part of the same band of chalk the South Downs is, so I had an idea of what the dust should look like, the soil here in the summer dries out to a light grey with a very subtle brown purple hue... I probably should have just used some real dust! In the case of you Spitfire, I'd go with the less is more approach, photos of the model before and during can help here as give a different perspective to what on the bench. HTH
  7. Chalk pastels will work better over over something with a bit of 'tooth' which is a matt coat. I've mentioned before, I think there is a lot to be said for a variation of sheens on a finished model, chalk pastels are good for exhaust deposits which tend to be very matt and sooty, the exhaust on this is paste chalk, my first go, an dark grey base, and then some lighter grey stippled over, I also use some light grey dust to try to show the lighter fabric areas, which was not as succesful, you can see some chalk over the L1952 if you look. and for dried mud. My method would be to get very fine abrasive and get some pastel dust, mix to a colour you like, and then add some lighter fuel and dab on for exhaust deposit, or with more lighter fuel it goes on as a slurry. You can remove most of it with a brush damped in LF as well, but you won't get the last off. does a good job of dust setting into crevices I find. you can the dust on here, this before the oil wash and pastel chalk HTH
  8. from, and not tried it https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235072750-172-sea-harrier-frs1-x-2-airfix-vs-italeri-comparative-assembly/#elControls_3677016_menu "My "patent" for too wide "trenches" is very easy. I've already use it on the old OEZ Letohrad 1/48 Su-25 model and I think it worked:" First thing I do is deepening (!!!) the lines with engraver. After that I cover the deepened panel lines with Mr. Surfacer 500 (quite thick, dense coat). When Surfacer will be dry I sand it from the lines. They should be much thinner and shallower after that. Soon we will see if this operation was successful... OK, it`s dry, so I could start sanding. I use normal sandpaper on flat surfaces and sanding sticks around the details. When this was done, I started cleaning the lines. I used a toothbrush. The next step was to cover the sanded parts with a layer of primer. As you can see the panel lines on Airfix model look much better now. They are narrower and more delicate. possibly use Tippex, as this may shrink a little. HTH
  9. On this example at least they were doped over, possibly just with paper so spent shell cases would rip through easily, which coukld save you a load of work. RCAF Hurricane XII, c1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr the removable panels, these note this drawing is not very good there are no slots in the gun panel, but behind, and the centre panel is too wide, and the side ammo box hatches are the same size. The gun bays are fitted around the existing wing structure, the drawing shows the centre panel as being wider than the structure lines. see below the outer gun bays were worked around the existing wing structure HTH
  10. How good it would be for 'Fury' i don't know, but as you do 1/48th planes, you maybe interested in the 1/48th Tamiya M4A3E8 kit https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-32595-m4a3e8-sherman-easy-eight--1138360 the 1/48th Tamiya kits are noted for being easy builds, so as a non-armour builder that may appeal, along with scale compatibility though likely as much as the 1/35th in price, ah, a look at Jadlam shows the £22.50 kit IS the 1/48th model, the 1/35th Tamiya is £34.95 @Kingsman maybe able to add some info on what is in the box, though 1/48th is not his area. HTH
  11. Nah, Rodney was in the SS.. 2nd from left... what am I on about? A very young Nicholas Lyndhurst was in an episode of the 1970's children sci-fi programme, The Tomorrow People "Hitler's Last Secret" as a teenage SS member... And a link to time of great German accent https://youtu.be/2qHUS2ytlMs?t=151 Neat bit of figure work @LankyPanky Do think his mum knitted the matching scarf and gloves? cheers T
  12. Not meantvas a slur against a nation, The actual paint is fine, it's their colour matching I have an issue with. Vallejo, AK and Mig all seem to have serious problems in matching paint standards, hence my comment about Spanish companies. A noted colour researcher supplied samples and advice to AK, had problems and later found out they wre using daylight bulbs to match. You think a large model paint company could afford a spectrometer and obtain the relevant paint samples, but apparently not. Since the OP was using Vallejo i mentioned this. That said, Xtracrylix, a British brand are poor on many of their British matches, and Humbrol are hit and miss. Tamiya are poor in their stated matches. I don't care where the paint comes from as long as it works as paint, and it says it's say, RLM 02, it actually resemble paint chips that I have. If I liked enamel, I'd just buy Colourcoats as their owner @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies is the only paint company I know does proper research and is a regular poster here and not spend time mixing acrylic paint to match.
  13. this would only work of they were re-engined with an A or AM engine. The DB605 AS and D engines HAVE to have the refined cowl on the port side, they have a larger supercharger and this needs a larger engine bearer arm, which is why they came up with the refined cowling, as this then blended in the buele bumps at the same time. The port cowling of the DB605A engine cannot fit over this new engine bearer. You could fit a DB605A into a G-10, and then fit the earlier covers, and on paper it would be a "G-10" but really a G-10 is a late model G with a DB605 D engine, there are various different G-10's, both new builds and rebuilds, as well as factory specific differences, each factory had it's own type of cowling, the WNF and Messerschmitt are very similar, the Erla cowling has various quite different features. Late war 109's are very very complex in detail, and add in post war rebuilds.... HTH
  14. Used to be sold as MEK PAK. it's one of the main parts of TET, someone posted the safety data sheet, IIRC for the quick drying TET, it was 40% MEK, 40% Ethyl Acetate, 20% acetone. I recently bought a lire off MEK off ebay for £12 shipped, as I know MEK works. It's very volatile, note Pets's comments about good ventilation, and also very thin. Someone on here dissolved clear sprue in it to make their own 'tube cement' I put some into my empty TET jar. Same with TET and other liquid glues, note the ingredients list for TET. easier with a candle. hold say an inch above the flame, rotate between fingers, when the plastic starts to get shiny and sag a bit, remove from flame and pull slowly. the speed of pull and type of plastic will affect how thin or thick the stretch is. there are various videos on youtube eg https://youtu.be/jl9F10fp-go?t=46 its easy as soon as you have the knack. And it's not like you have a shortage of the base material. The build which use stretch sprue and the sprue goo, I'd say for an even gap, try a strip of plastic card, and then trim down. One of the things I wish i'd know when I was younger regarding modelling was taking a holistic view of the process, an example would be test fitting and adjusting an integral canopy early in the build, so it will fit easily later, and seeing if breakable bits can be fitted later, now I search up and see if there are tips and tricks on builds. ]Your two builds are a good compare and contrast, the 70's Airfix will have less accurate fit than a modern took kit like the new Airfix Spitfire. Sounds great, but the new kits can fit so precisely that a missed sprue nib, mould line or even a coat of paint can affect fit, in the new too Spitfire this can mean the seat and instrument panel bulkhead can not recess fully, and the fuselage not close up. Inevitably there are some inattentive modellers, or old ones who don't know this, who then blame the kit. To be fair, the pictographic instructions don't spell out how crucial an early step can be, or the consequences of small cumulative errors. The new tool Airfix Hurricanes require that the wheel parts are very exactly aligned, this can be done by using the upper/lower wing parts taped together as a jig to hold a part in the right place, and very careful use of liquid glue. Get it wrong and 10 steps down the line the wing won't fit the fuselage and it's a mess... There is also the art of minimising filling. Test fit, trim and shim as needed, look for potential problems and how to eliminate or lessen them. I post this thread up frequently as it's really elegant in the analysis and resolution of various problems, that could easily turn the kit into a mess and slog of filling and attempts at restoring lost detail. Common complaint, "the 1/48th Eduard Bf110 kit cowling are a poor fit" And here's a write up of how to avoid this and other problems https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235077259-a-twin-that-did-not-get-away-eduard-148-bf-110c-finished/#elControls_3789423_menu and some of the following posts. This is quite a complex example, but you can see how this careful preparation pays dividends, and how not doing this would lead to "it doesn't fit and it's crap" cheers T
  15. How are you applying it? And is it just liquid poly? as in the Humbrol? Liquid poly is thin, but not as thin as other glues, like Tamiya Extra Thin. Revell Contacta with the metal applicator tube is a good as well, the tube is quite long and good for applying a drop in the right place. There are different liquid glues. Learning what glue to use when is not always obvious. When doing some old Matchbox vehicle kits, I was finding that Tamiya Extra Thin (TET) was not doing it, and some tube glue gave both grab and some wiggle time. But, I also found that some TET to just soften the plastic on a small join, allowed a drop of tube glue to get a better grip. An old fine paint brush is often a much better than the supplied brush. You can mix liquid and tube glue to vary viscosity. Tube glue is basically liquid glue with some added plastic to make it thicker. As mentioned by Mark @2996 Victor you can use tiny drops of superglue/CA, put some on a surface, and pick up a drop with a toothpick or get a sewing needle, break the top of the threading eye, and use that. CA is very strong in traction, so you can stick something down and not pull it up, but it's brittle, eg stick a flat head nail to a surface, you won't be able to pull it up, but a sharp blow to the side will fracture the bond. This property can used as well, I have done this with butt joints, like a tailplane, tack in place, drill though location holes from inside, then you can cleanly snap off the tailplane, and attach later using pins in the predrilled and correctly aligned holes. So you can use tiny drop of CA to align, and if happy, then use the capillary action of liquid glue to finalise the bond, dip small brush in glue, and then just touch onto the joint, capillary actions will draw it in. This can give very neat joins. Go easy on liquid glue, as it can soften too much, and later create ghost seams. I have used those mini tubes of CA in the way you used to use tube glue, running a fine bead and than just joining parts, but you need to be sure that everything is going to fit or it can be a real mess. If you get it right it's like being 9 again, and you can press on in a minute with construction. There is no one size fits all glue, they all have their uses, advantages and disadvantages, just requires a bit of thought about what you are doing. HTH
  16. I note the box art has the fuselage cross and swastika painted out in green, but i don't see any real tonal difference between the 74 gray and the over painted areas. Maybe as the AZ are Czech they know something, and I have no knowledge of the Slovak G-6's apart from the above images, and I'd not seen 6 before either. there maybe more in this, but not i book I own or have even browsed. http://modelingmadness.com/scott/books/osprey/slovakaces.htm
  17. The classic Kleer/Future is reputed to work better applied with a soft flat brush, as it self levels, that's why it worked as a gloss coat on floors, and work for filling imperfections in canopies. No idea about the Pledge, but perhaps worth trying. this is brushed Kleer over brushed Tamiya (as a primer) and then Vallejo, so several brushed coats of acrylic, so not a really smooth base, but the Kleer brushes out really easily. The blue Seafire look great HTH
  18. Just bend over bend it a bit. try it on sprue first. Get a long bit. Bend it a little, if flexes, and then retains original shape. This is elastic deformation. bend it more, it will keep a bit of an angle, but not as much as you bent it. Bend it more than you want, and it will then keep the lesser angle. Over do it and it snap, but unless it's really brittle plastic, it will take a lot of bending. This is plastic deformation. EDIT and unless the plastic is white, you will see a colour change where the material has been bent, it will got a lighter colour, as you have damaged a bit the plastic and you see the stress mark. Do this with scrap until you feel comfortable with the properties of the material, but it it does seem to be forgotten how easy it is to just flex polystyrene to a new shape.. see link below for more. You can aid this by scoring the lower wing part where you want the new angle. You may need to scrape the upper wing roots a bit to allow a comfortable fit. It's the sort of thing that take far longer to type out than do. Thinner plastic card? I have some 5 thou, which seems hard to find. The Spitfire XIX wing was thick, which gave decent mounting surface, I can't recall what the old tool Mk.I wing is like though. I also added some plastic strip for the main spar and chamfered the edges of the leg part of the well. Anyway, all a learning experience especially if you are a returnee. Despite only completing a few builds, I have done a fair bit of tinkering with kits to work out corrections. An example, and also has some plastic bending, see the part of reshaping the cowling sides https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968337-two-148-mkvb-spitfires-tamiya-and-airfix-new-spitfire-collection-expansion-project-finished-photos-now-in-the-rfi-section-080615/page/3/#elControls_1763656_menu HTH
  19. It is, with the right filler. cheap superglue mixed with talc. You can use plain superglue, but it's needs to sanded as soon as initially hard, as when fully hard it's harder than the plastic. More talc makes is stiffer and softer. easy to sand or carve, sets in a minute or so. The other is 'sprue goo' scrap plastic dissolved in liquid glue. advantage, it's the same as the kit once set, disadvantage it takes time to set. lighter fuel. quicker and much less greasy than white spirit. also, get some foam backed sanding pads. Very useful. A cheap way to get them is this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392994468757 "OFFER IS FOR 100 x WET AND DRY SANDING FINE GRADE OFF-CUTS STRIPS GREAT FOR Model /Crafts ETC WILL BE VARIOUS FINE GRADES THAT CAN INCLUDE FINE ,SUPERFINE, MICRO FINE ULTRA FINE , P1000/800, P1500/1200. P400/320, P600/500 WHEN THE PADS ARE MADE WE HAVE VARIOUS SIZE OFF CUTS FROM THE TRIM PROCESS, THIS ALSO INCLUDES ANY DAMAGED PADS AND SECONDS GRADES SO PADS CAN HAVE IMPERFECTIONS, THEY ALL GET MIXED UP IN A HUGE CONTAINER READY FOR LAND FILL SEE PICTURE, THE PACKER JUST TAKES 100 OUT AT RANDOM FOR DESPATCH" I got this or similar a while back, I got a small box packed with offcuts of sanding pads, the strips are 1-2 wide and about 4 inch long. no connection to seller, they evidently make them, and these are the scrap bits, which are rather handy for the modeller. They do other variations, this looks to be a good balance on price and amount. Seller has 100% feedback, and a huge number of sales. The box I got would last me years of intensive building. HTH
  20. asisbiz lists this as a G-4, but they didn't have the 13mm cowl guns, but looks like the box art except 6 rather than 2. https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Bf-109G/JG52-Slow.html the only other I can recall is the one Slovak insurgent one with the Tri-Sestry markings tri sestry= three sisters, Slovak mountains, the black line on the white and red bit @SafetyDad @G.R.Morrison @David E. Brown may know of others.
  21. I trust neither Vallejo or AK, or any of the Spanish paint companies to accurately match anything. Vallejho do make paints that match standards, but then call them something else... OK, not always, they seem to match FS 595 OK, but, there are lots of colours not in FS595... and miss matches often enough to be wary. the 71 look OK, the 02 looks a bit light, but maybe a wash will tone it down/tie together, and may just be a bright desk light. wartime colour I suspect the darker green on this is RLM 70. note the 02 on the the 109 and on the trainer in the background. RLM 02 is a olive grey. The colour shot below is a little too blue. To "do" colours you need something to compare it to. I have fallen a long way down the colour rabbit hole, and now have a selection of colour chip to play with... Sadly unless you get lucky, these are not cheap resources to acquire, or even to find in some books cases. In the case of RLM, quite a few colour map over to RAL, and you can get a RAL K-7 deck here https://www.e-paint.co.uk/RAL-colour-guides.asp note, many of the revell Aqua range range are RAL matches Note Revell 45 is a very good match for RLM 02 @Casey maybe able to add some more. they tend to shrink, except for Milliput. Which is great, but slow and can be chore with the mixing. I highly rate superglue and talc. consistency can be varied, workable in under 2 mins, sand, carves, feathers out and scribe able. Depends how you get on with superglue. Very neat and crisp work on the 109
  22. Fantastic write up Rob I'm a big fan of warts and the odd disaster build, because I see a lot of new member intros who are returnees or just getting more interested, and there are some quite intimidating builders, in skill and tools/materials used. So a honest 'not done this in years and here's how it went' build is great, as it shows others that they can post up a build and learn in public in s supportive environment. I go in fits and starts, and really have not completed many builds, I see you have discovered one of those things not always pointed out, see what is visible through the canopy before going overboard on detail. You may find my Spitfire XIX build of interest/amusement. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235073488-spitfire-pr-xix-airfix-72nd-as-i-thought-it-would-be-easy/ If nothing else for a simple way to do the wheel wells. One other thing, a simple dark wash and light dry brush can really make detail 'pop'. I see you have found @AdrianMF who makes tarting up old kits looks easy, but does explain and illustrate techniques well, like representative cockpits from scratch, that work very well, but when you see the breakdown are as much about 'seeing' how to create the parts reasonably simply. On the subject of techniques and the like, the first one that I completed https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki-oob/ anyway. HTH
  23. Tamiya XF-52 is hopeless, too red, too light (so too much white) Humbrol H29 is OK, but not great, is this acrylic or enamel. Revell 82 Dark Earth is close, as are the other Revell Aqua colours relevant for either scheme The DE is measure of how close to the paint chip, under 2 is very close Revell Aqua 36182 Dark Earth RAF | RAF Dark Earth Difference: 2.39 DE Revell Aqua 36168 Dark Green RAF | RAF Dark Green Difference: 2.85 DE 36174 - Gunship grey | RAF Extra Dark Sea Grey Difference: 0.59 DE Revell Aqua 36179 - Greyish blue | RAF Ocean Grey Difference: 1.59 DE 36167 - RAL 7009 - Greenish grey | RAF Dark Slate Grey Difference: 2.02 DE Revell Aqua 36159 | RAF Sky Difference: 1.63 DE from HTH
  24. EN398 IX 3989 CHA M63 FF 13-2-43 402Sq 18-2-43 416Sq 23-3-43 Station HQ Kenley 4-4-43 AST mods 416Sq 16-4-43 421Sq 27-7-43 AST 26-8-43 CAC ops 24-9-43 AST 83GSU 23-3-44 Scottish Aviation 22-8-44 9MU 9-1-45 80OTU 24-5-45 29MU 21-3-46 sold scrap H.Bath 10-11-49 (WgCdr Johnson shot down 16 of his final total of 34 enemy aircraft) From http://www.airhistory.org.uk/spitfire/p035.html This is the mostly aluminium paint internals era. HTH
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