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Troy Smith

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Everything posted by Troy Smith

  1. You need Eyes For The Phoenix by Geoff Thomas, photo reconnaissance in SEAC. It has IIRC a few pics, I don't think they were PRU Blue, but some local mix. Book not hand. Despite the name, it actually has a lot of detail about colours, like tables with various colour references like Munsell and Methuen, and markings in it, it's the best guide I know of on SEAC colours, let alone the PR stuff, like PR mods. Also covers FAA, so colour section cover US colors as well. I think it's OOP, but pdfs of it are floating about HTH
  2. Needle in a pin vice, or a scriber, keep scribing and deepening the line you want until you cut through. Should not take that long.
  3. I found the Mk.I manual It indicates a star shaped adjuster for the rudder bar, visible here on R4118, just below the compass, to the right of the control column, which would explain the comment about it now being more accessible on the Mk.II this is the trim tab on the unrestored Hurricane in Finland from https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235099841-hawker-hurricane-mkia/
  4. Are you aware of this book? https://www.hyperscale.com/2016/reviews/books/japoliberatorbookreviewfw_1.htm Not one I have, and now OOP, you could contact the publisher? I suggest editing your thread heading , look for the ... at the right, you can edit your post and heading, suggest "B-24 120 (CXX) Squadron RAF.. Coastal Command 1941 / 45, searching for photos of AM925 and LV341" as this shows at a glance what you are asking. No harm being very precise on here. HTH
  5. Pilots notes. There are ones for both the Mk.I and Mk.II Mk.II 23. Rudder trimming tab control. I have a book with the Mk.I notes.... somewhere. I'm pondering where I last saw it.... @dogsbody may have a pic is his files, @StevSmar is interested in the nuts and bolts and may know.
  6. Why there were two sailors wandering around I don't know, but there were... unless it was some private joke? Possibly as by this stage the Hurricane was basically obsolete as technology, and the reason for the painting was likely part of press access to the factory for propaganda. Elsie Hewland being employed as a war artist Since you seem to doubt my comment as to the veracity of her work, and its value, compare, her Typhoon and look at the details, this is someone with a very sharp eye for detail, and colour with a period colour photo Hawker Typhoon. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr back to this and period colour, note from a press visit slightly later, from the serial Hurricane IIc, 1943 by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr I think the woman on the left with green top is the one below and, another, later press visit and again and next batch... and the final batch.. PZ865 last down the line....
  7. This lists what the Revell Aqua range match, or are near matches for Be aware Humbrol are very hit and miss in quality, if buying paints new, I'd research. Especially in the case of Airfix, who recommend Humbrol, it can be easier just to find out what the real colour is, and find a match, for example, in Revell Aqua range. Natural light is very good, as a natural backgrounds. And with digital it's easy to play around. HTH
  8. Really interesting thread up on Hyperscale https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/aleutian-tigers-p-40e-camouflage-colors-t542982.html Lots of great images, a fair few in color, and ones with British type Dark Green/Dark Earth camo, with the nose art and white fin stripes, this is a blow up so a bit blurry, but colors visible and a fascinating scheme! well worth a read, IIRC @ilj has done a series of Aleutian's models.
  9. you just clean up the attachment and touch up the missing paint. Considering you have just used the kit paints and I assume, brush you have got a decent result, you have the basic skills needed, just need to hone them in a few places. decals need a smooth surface, you can smooth matt paint, or add a gloss coat. warm or hot water can help, but not all decals are the same. Worth paying attention to where markings are placed as well, on a Spitfire they were factory applied in specific places. you may find this interesting, https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Camouflage-Markings/Supermarine-Spitfire note the camouflage and markings drawing on page 7. brush painting works fine, but for acrylic, you need to thin correctly, and using a small flat brush really makes big difference for larger areas. This is a skill to learn, for any paint. I add paint to a palette, you don't need much on a small model, and then use a syringe to add water drop by drop. I make a syringe of water with a tiny amount of flow improver, which just breaks water surface tension so flow better. A tiny amount of washing up liquid may work if you don't want to get flow improver. Test out on something else first with anything new. it needs to flow smoothly, think full fat milk. Again, practice on something else first! Ideally the same type of plastic. Acrylic paint dries fast using thin coats, but does take several days to fully cure and harden. Airfix/Humbrol do themselves no favour with their starter pots. Some are OK, some are poor. I don't know what paint you can get easily in Germany, the Revell Aqua range are decent paints, though a limited colour range. Quite thick but thin and brush well. Vallejo Model Color brush well, but their colour names are not to be trusted. Long running complaint. Humbrol 30 is a blue green, RAF Dark Green is a dark olive green. Adding some water to the paint can help if you must use it. See tips on paint thinning. You can hand brush canopy frames if you have a steady hand, you can use a damped toothpick to neaten up. It's worth painting the mating edges of the canopy, as this cuts down on internal reflection. the canopy on this is freehand, and I did the internal colour first, I did need to scrape the odd bit of paint off but overall the paint went on well, this was Vallejo Model Color 20240229_163955 by losethekibble, on Flickr Build here, https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235136191-hawker-hurricane-iic-f171f188-novo-78104/Also shows the difference not just doing a photo on a cutting mat makes... High tech photo set up needed..... I'm joking, this was done by pushed stuff about on desk, bit of Faller grass matt daughter insisted on buying years ago, on a box, and a blue paper folder shoved behind, overhead desk light.... taken on a smartphone! You may find the description of processes used helpful? I don't know what is available in Germany, @tempestfan @Jochen Barett maybe able to advise, but you read about people using Kleer/Future or something similar. It was sold as floor varnish! What was important is it is a self levelling acrylic varnish, and can be used for dipping canopies, the one in the photo looked frosted before the dip, it made a big difference, also as a gloss coat, and help with decal application. It too me years to actually sit down and finish a kit, so I had plenty of time to mess about a read build on here, picking up hints and tips. It is well worth doing a Work In Progress, or join a group build, https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/106-current-groupbuilds/ There are several going on, if you have a eligible subject join up, ask for input, well worth looking up how other have done the same kit for hints and possible problems as well. It's a very helpful, encouraging and pleasant community on here, you soon get to know regular posters, Does take a bit of time doing photos and a write up, but they can be interesting to look back on and see how you did something. HTH
  10. the KW batch were being made from November 1942. This id not early in Hurricane production. The underside were either Medium Sea Grey , Day Fighter Scheme, or Azure Blue, Desert Scheme. So, no, not Sky. Sky is Sky type S, same colour, same paint, the type S refers to it being smooth, as were all the other paints, but for some reason the suffix type is often used. From where specifically? Did you read the linked post?
  11. the unofficial squadron records book says it was link to time in video, https://youtu.be/P3il6dJaMt4?t=223 which has images but since the entire vid is just under six minutes, worth a watch.
  12. Been much discussed. AFAIK with the Mk.II/IV there was a switch in the KX/KZ batch, with interior going over too all grey green, and wheel wells in underside colour. Images of a IID at the NII VVS show monotone cockpit. Images of LB and PZ production show mono colour interiors. A colour painting of KX productions shows all grey green internals, so best guess says everything after KX is like this. The artist is near photographic in detail and colour https://artuk.org/discover/artists/hewland-elsie-dalton-19011979 Some very early Mk.I's look to be all grey green internally, but all the wrecks in France show aluminium paint. FIlm of Austin produced Mk.IIs shows all one colour, so they look to be grey green. This specific post I made is a bit is buried, but covers this in more detail. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234963507-all-the-hurricane-questions-you-want-to-ask-here/page/2/#elControls_1682406_menu That's it so far.
  13. 56th FG P-47Ms are much discussed. They were supplied in natural metal, and were painted in the UK, Each squadron had it's own scheme, and the pattern could vary, here a period colour shot, note the canopy was not painted this is the real LM-H 44-21233 from https://www.americanairmuseum.com/archive/aircraft/44-21233 Neat work, hops the pics are of interest.
  14. Probably easier to do then mud. IMO weathering and washes are best done subtly, as it does not take much to create the effect of use, I went for a dusty look on this build https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235095700-matchbox-176-morris-c8-mk-ii-17pdr-gun-willys-jeep-set on a nail board rubbed various pastel chalks, (I bought a cheap set of earth tones) yellow, brown, grey, mixed together. Applying dry was OK, then I dumped the powder into a pallete, and added lighter fuel, and brushed it on, it dries really fast, and you can adjust the deposition with a brush dipped in clean LF. I was aiming for a dusty streaked appearance, which had also been rained in, so streaked with dust, and in collected in the crevices, I brushed down the armour plate, and you can see how it has collected in the tyre tread and other places. IIRC the soil in Normandy is like the soil in the South Downs, the bedrock being chalk, and when dry it is a light grey with a brown-purple tint..... same method on this, oil paint wash, lighter fuel solvent, and then ground pastel chalk 'dissolved' in lighter fuel from https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235104634-pk-78-m16-half-tracknow-with-an-added-p5002-american-infantry-figure/ As with anything like this, practice on something else first, I had a few built tanks from a jumble, but a cheap toy will work, as long as you can see the effect and learn what does or does not work for you. The last bit is important, as you can find masses of flash vids on youtube that look very impressive, and are, technique and material wise, but are not always very true to life, and often dead wrong, like rusty tracks.... which are made of manganese steel which doesn't rust for example, or bright metal scratches and rust on armour plate... Many are subtly disguised adverts for certain products as well.. In my case, my oil paints are from the 70's, and the pastel chalk came off ebay or Amazon https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201601376116 These are pretty chalky, a better brand may work better. Bear in mind many modelling products are just something else sold in smaller expensive containers with MODELLING added to the label, they have not been blessed with some special magic properties by a model fairy..... not that I am in any way at all cynical Well worth posting up a work in progress and asking for input. HTH
  15. Mr Surfacer 500 is good for this. If you have any, superglue, use a bead of that, but sand as soon as touch dry, when cured its harder than the plastic. you can add talc, this bulks it and makes it softer. Experiment on scrap first, but it dries very fast. The step is probably as the alignment pins are slightly out, one to check when test fitting, you can open up the holes a little to get a better fit. Neat work of reducing the panel lines. Looks like you are learning a lot from this, and it's always good to see your work in photos on the forum, as it puts it in a common context and gives that bit of remove to see problems you are overlooking. I'm a big fan of returnee modellers who are happy to share their experiences, as it encourages others. HTH
  16. No mention of red this shows both the red devil and fuselage number https://luftwaffelosses.com/Luftwaffe_Losses_Index/1940/12.08.1940_2._JG_52_Messerschmitt_Bf_109E-1_Wnr.3367_Uffz._Zaunbrecher_Location_Mays_Farm_Selmeston_Sussex_England./ Both show a paler red devil to the 14 I presume there are actual Luftwaffe details somewhere. @FalkeEins? also https://gb.readly.com/magazines/iron-cross/2022-03-30/63219f3e5f4d8470a782437c "Firstly, Unteroffizier Leo Zaunbrecher’s Bf 109E-1, WNr.3367, which featured on the front cover and on page 9. The markings on Zaunbrecher’s aircraft have been misinterpreted in various publications over the years and this is undoubtedly because the A.I.1.(k) interrogation report filed on the pilot states: “TYPES and MARKS: Me.109. 14+ (in Red)”. However, neither the onsite A.I.1.(g) report nor the various local Police reports filed at the time mention the colour of the aircraft’s markings. From around mid-April 1940, 5./JG 52 switched from using red to black markings. It would thus be very odd for Zaunbrecher’s Bf 109 to still be sporting red markings in mid-August 1940 when shot down. I believe the author of the A.I.1.(k) report, Sqn Ldr Samuel Denys Felkin, who led the Air Ministry intelligence section, didn’t actually see the aircraft and presumed that the markings were red due to it belonging to 5 Staffel. After all, red had been the standard colour for 5 Staffel aircraft markings for some time and was a well-known fact to British intelligence. So, the aircraft was actually ‘Black 14+’ and proper analysis of period photography confirms this. " hope of interetst, oddly enough I have 3, or nearly 3 of these in the stash, two slightly started that came in a box with a Hurricane for a tenner from the club and one I got off asking for kits on freecycle.... It was my 2nd Superkit, maybe May 76? I did the Hurricane in March. I later handpainted yellow 10 on my 1/48th Monogram Bf109 E, which remains in a stripped state, what gets me is how good the paint was to use, yellow in one coat over camo? Cheers T
  17. Use a very thin wash, and push it about with a brush dipped in clean lighter fuel, try streaking with airflow. Will remove the wash even if apparently dry. Even if you remove almost all of it, the little left will modulate the finish subtly and breaks the surface up is my experience. Dirty grey is good, burnt umber, dash of black and white. Burnt umber and black for deeper crevices. neat oils streaked with LF is good for oil leaks blown back by airflow. HTH
  18. its been too blue since the 1970's. Hopeless match. it is. Dark Green is a dark olive hued green. The post war colour seems to fade to brown though, Ocean Grey is not a neutral grey, it has subtle greeness to it Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Grey is too blue, Dark Sea Grey is part of the sea grey family, which have a subtle purple blue hue. I'd not trust Printscale, they are noted for being shoddy. Using printed instructions for color matches is nearly useless. They are there to show what goes where. Humbrol names are not indicative of actual colors in most cases. Do not use their names as a guide. re H30 https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234989589-humbrol-30-is-there-a-use-for-it/page/2/#elControls_2313655_menu The colour change happened in the early 70's, it was blue-ish in 1975, I remains from then in it. That Humbrol still make it and Airfix recommend as Dark Green it is one of life's mysteries. There are a couple of generations of modellers who think it's the right colour though... It can be used for Dark Sea Green, RAAF Foliage Green and maybe US Medium Green 42. either of these if the actually match the BS standard. Xtracrylix in my experience are not particularly good matches, MrColor maybe better. Both are likely 'in the ball park' if you don't want to go mad. To recap Dark Green is a dark olive green Dark Sea Grey is a medium to dark subtle purple blue hued grey. Next to Dark Green is looks grey. HTH
  19. The old is lighter, and crucially, greener. The new compared to old are very different, I hope the photo gives an idea. Note my comments about trying the mix again, and my initial foray using the new colors as well. I'll play with more later.
  20. Not bad, just the old formula. Various Tamiya colors have changed. Comparison I was surprised to see that the purples were also different. Also, I tried my mix, though I had to thin the old paint, 1:1 was far too purple. Better was xf17:2 x16:1, I did have a play with the new XF17 and X16, @Casey Too dark but a similar hue was xf17:3, x16:3, xf5 :1 that's crude drops of mixer stick, and I then needed to stop playing with paint.. not sure if a little white will help, or just make it too grey.
  21. Using the dark blue variant of XF-17 will not work. The old XF-17, certainly the one I have, was a greeny blue, which reminded me of the color that was in the Humbrol Authentic range as sea blue. In one of the discussions on Sea blue on here, @Mike Starmer mentioned his mix for ANA 623 using Humbrol, 4 parts 77 Sea Blue to 1 part 68 gloss purple, by chance I had X-16, bought as cheap, for possible toy use as its pretty lurid, and thought I'd try it. The result was surprising. I'll have to find the paints and do some swatches. Is there a record of the real pigments in ANA 623?
  22. The access hatches diagram says Desert survival equipment, which you will only need if you pancake or make some kind of unexpected landing, so if you make a mess of the hatch with a crowbar it less of a problem...
  23. The OLD XF-17 is greeny blue, the NEW XF-17 is very dark blue.... I have no idea when the change was, the old XF-17 is 23ml, and probably 10 years, or more old. I got it from a shop that was closing, as well as the X-16 gloss purple, a post by Mike Starmer on a Humbrol mix for ANA 623 led me to try mixing them, and by eye it looked good. I found I needed to take the Elliot chips out into bright sunlight to properly see them.... Can be tricky here in 'sunny' England! Do you have the Elliot book? Not sure from the thread is all, but photos of mixes without something to compare too makes it very hard to judge what you are seeing Sorry for any confusion caused, there are mixes for Tamiya, often from their instructions that have been about for years, as well as the confusion over what the Sea Blues look like, as they are frequently quoted as being the same as FS15042/25042/35042.... Hope you find a mix that works for you though which is what matters.
  24. @Adrian Hills did one in 2021 A tip, the site search is not very good, but try adding Britmodeller into a google search term, and now you have another build to check. As you can see it's very do-able with some forethought and a few tweaks and tricks. HTH
  25. Do you know which XF-17 you have? The greeny blue, or the very dark blue version, AFAIK @Casey has the recent very dark blue XF-17. This make a huge difference to the finished mix. as a couple of period colour images note the comparison to the Insignia Blue
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