Troy Smith

This is mentioned on the caption on Flickr, should have mentioned it. My point was more about how only 2 schemes were applied at Hatfield. IIRC the Percival were all bombers, or the line up photo on here was, and were in Dark Green/ Ocean Grey uppers.

which one? Also, what is the serial, that helps. This depends on date, but did happen, there is even some film of this being done. These were not applied until 1945, and then often only on the vertical fin on the uppers, and then tones down to 'india white' but there are many variations. they also started to get full squadron codes again as well, these have been dropped in 1943 to try confuse the Japanese about the amount of aircraft available. SEAC marking are not well documented, well, not in one place... Which Arma correctly call out the details for, this is a quick guide I did for the optional parts for anyone else wishing to find their own options http://britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235128469-arma-hobby-148th-hurricane-iic-optional-parts-description-spinners-cannon-barrels-tailwheels-tropical-vents/ Neat work @GrzeM @Wojtek Bulhak

A collection of period colour collected by @Etiennedup https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=8270787%40N07&view_all=1&text=mosquito some very useful detail and a great feel for the airframe can be gleaned from these.

there wasn't an RAF standard, though factories tended to have their own style. in the interests of production, Mosquito's ended up being built in two factory finishes, night intruder and PRU Blue Final assembly of Mosquitos, 1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr And different end user finishes applied as needed at MU's So the aluminium paint was applied in theatre, and the serial re-applied there. This maybe just Hatfield, it was pointed out in a thread recently that Percival had a different camo demarcation on their nacelles. @Dave Swindell @The wooksta V2.0 ? pic from here, which is all the Mosquito colour from @Etiennedup https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=8270787%40N07&view_all=1&text=mosquito and just as it's there BUILDING A MOSQUITO , 1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Neat work on the masking graphics.

for ease of reference tip = the IWM pics have mid in the file name https://media.iwm.org.uk/ciim5/7/514/mid_000000.jpg if you replace mid with large, you get the large pics above @Etiennedup has a crop of the 2nd pic which has been cleaned up, SEAC Mosquito, 1945. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr note the pale blue 'india white' roundel centres, which was 5 parts white to 1 part roundel blue. Interesting history to the build, and I think the Mossie looks rather spiffing in these colours. Cheers T

I had the same thing from late last night to some point this afternoon. Don't know if @Mike had any issues?

Chris, if I may, if you have not modelled in 30 years, and unless you were a whizz kid modeller at 13, this maybe not the best things to dive in with if you pardon the pun... A quick search shows that the kit is not cheap, and probably complex, and not something you really want to restart on, it would perhaps be worth having a hunt for a smaller sub with some etch just to have a run through of techniques, you could work in parallel even, trying out things on the cheaper kit first so you know how paints, etch glue etc behave rather than finding out the hard way way on the big kit. I would also have a search around for builds of the Type IX, and see if there are any pitfalls or tips and tricks. The Type IX kit seems to be a recent tooling, one thing with CAD designed kits which is not obvious is they can be unforgiving, requiring you to be very through on eliminating mould lines, sprue nibs, or even a coat of paint, which can throw off fit, sometimes the mis alignment is not apparent but has a knock on, and then cumulative errors can mean you end up with a right mess. It's good practice to do a lot of test fitting, espcially when small parts have been painted and looking to see how the assembly will develop, instructions are not random, but do often have poor construction ideas, like fitting delicate parts that could be fitted later that are easy to damage. There maybe a good reason to follow a specific order. Hmm, a look at the parts here https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/German-Submarine-Type-IX-C-U505.html that's A LOT of etch. Find something similar and cheaper to get the hand of it... another search shows Revell do a 1/144 Type VII, https://modelingmadness.com/review/misc/ships/tmctype7d.htm "A submarine is a good place to begin for someone returning to ship modeling, or just starting out, due to their basic simplicity. During construction of this kit, the only difficulty I experienced was cutting off various of the smaller parts from the sprue without damaging them. Some are small enough that damage is apparently inevitable. Even with all this, assembly of the hull took less than two hours." https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235085936-revell-1144-u-boat-vii-c41/ this is a build with added etch https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235041872-u-boot-type-vii-c41-atlantic-version-revell-05100-1144/ and Eduard do an etch set https://www.eduard.com/eduard/photo-etched-parts/photo-etched-set/ships/1-144/u-boat-viid-1-144.html?lang=1 @whitestar12chris I recall as being a sub fan, and may have some more specific or useful ideas. You will get a lot of support and advice if you do a work in progress thread, it takes a bit of effort to photograph and write up, but can be very interesting to look back on and see how things develop. The few builds I have finished on here when re-read can be quite a memory jog. Hope this does not come over as a lecture, just some suggestions from reading far too many threads on here. worth getting some dedicated thinners just for the thinning, white spirit and the like is fine for cleaning up, but is' greasy gunk for paint thinning. Also, if you use washes, zippo type lighter fuel will thin both enamel and oil paint, and makes the thinnest and most seeking washes, and flashes off in seconds. it's the moisture in your breath, not the heat, CA needs moisture to cure, but it's a useful tip. cheers T

@iang ?

Hyperscale. Lynn posts there, but not here. I do recall him saying about details getting missed in the design that were too late to fix. Revell are also well known for making glaring errors so don't discount that! Large Scale Planes may have something. I have no recall of the upper wing bulges varying but Erla did have a totally different cowling so maybe. You might also want to see how Eduard represent them. @SafetyDad @tank152 @FalkeEins ?

and how weathered? Bear in mind that a lot of WW2 types never lasted long enough to get very weathered, either lost or replaced, very weathered more likely on 2nd line types. Look at photos. Go away, think about it what you have seen, and look again. In particular period colour @Etiennedup has a collated a collection here https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=8270787%40N07&view_all=1&text=spitfire this is post war, but on 2nd line Auxiliary unit, showing the browning Graham mentions Spitfire F 21. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr 2nd TAF Vb hack Spitfire Mk. V ? by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Spitfire mk. XIV. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr note wear on wing where ground crew stand to access engine and fuel tank, and staining, Spitfire Mk.Vb, c1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr and the underside, note the overpainted roundel underwing from the A to C change Spitfire Mk.Vc by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr this is well used. Note fading and streaking Spitfire Mk. Vb. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr 2nd ASR. Well-worn Spitfire V, 1945. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr just post war, note staining, especially around fuselage fuel tank Spitfire XIVe in Denmark, 1945. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr this I really recommend looking at very very closely, 2nd line, well used but cared for. Spitfire Mk.IXC 1945 by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr You only need a small amount of careful staining, and some small chips, oil and exhaust to break a model up and make it look used. Far far too many people get carried away, and I see a fair few models on here which are far too tatty getting "oh great weathering" comments. this is a very very worn and faded Naval Hurricane in a training unit, not the fresh paint on the markings, so probably summer 1942, chipping more likely due to poor paint adhesion seen on some Mk.I Hurricanes than just use, but even here it's not that faded. HTH

ebay. Kingkit. But as it is OOP you will have to keep searching and waiting. Or ask Special Hobby if it's due to be reissued. Your previous post, with the same unhelpful heading, was locked. As this will probably be, for the reasons given before. The suggestions remain the same. the post before that, with another enigmatic heading, actually asking about making a Barracuda Mk.I, received several replies, with no response or acknowledgement, even just using the like/thanks option, which is not required but is polite to acknowledge information supplied. HTH

yep. See Wingleader Photo Archive. Kotare pay attention to detail. very early Mk.I, no holes, little door at top, possibly a different shape bulge L1547, first production note the yellow serial, which is a odd quirk. edit - you can just make out the little doors on this, they slid to cover the gap at the top of the UC leg when retracted, must have been not worth the bother in service. I don't know when they got dropped, early on as you don't see them after very early production. main production door, no small door, 6 holes HTH

Beaman's work was ground breaking when Last of the Eagles was published. Given he was working from limited photos and no real documentation. G-10A/B is a term he coined to describe what looked like a set of airframe features. LOTE is very impressive but has been superceded. A LOT more has come out, in particular the specifics of the 3 factories, in particular Erla cowlings, but if you follow this you can even tell the plant or batch by camouflage pattern.. The Croatian black 4 is G-14AS, its discussed and details of why in this thread https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235081148-that-croatian-defectors-bf109g-a-colour-pic/ It even gives the werk nummer HTH

The period photo, not the model. It did fade though. We have discussed USN Blues before. @Casey has done matches for ANA and other US colors. I'll add in a link when I get chance.

Exhaust shields. Metal strip in the eyeline to exhaust to avoid glare. More often seen on Hurricanes. Can't be faffed to go on image hunt for so equipped Spitfire at mo...