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About beetcleaner

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  1. I have seen clear parts fixed into models by using Tamiya Extra Thin applied very sparingly so that capillary action flows around the edges and doesn't fog the parts. I dip my canopies etc in Future and wondered if the TET still works with Future on the parts? I usually use PVA glue to fix clear parts but no matter how sparingly I apply it some always squishes inside turrets etc so wanted to try the above method Thankyou for any advice
  2. Thankyou everyone for your very detailed advice! I shall put this in to very good use when I get to the painting stage. I am lucky enough to have a Benchvent BV 300 extractor so that in conjunction with a mask should keep me protected.
  3. Can anyone advise on best technique for airbrushing Alclad please. My last model was done in a NMF and I used Tamiya AS12 spray cans. The result was very good but my latest project has lots of nooks and crannies and I would probably get a lot of overspray on the model. I use a Badger 200NH airbrush and usually spray Humbrol enamels at 20 psi. Any advice on what thinners to use and what I should clean the airbrush with would be most welcome as well. Thankyou for any advice
  4. Thankyou all for your very helpful advice. After much research I have decided to replace the spray tip and needle to see if this solves the problem. They only cost £11 so not a huge expense if this isnt the problem
  5. Steve Thankyou for the reply. Yes the part you mention is clean and tight to the body. I frequently remove this part and oil the assembly with very fine watch oil to make sure nothing is jammed. Hole in paint jar is also clean. Im wondering if its the teflon needle bearing thats gone. Does Badger have a UK service centre as I understand the bearing would be replaced under the lifetime warranty?
  6. I use a Badger 200 NH single action airbrush. It has started to "pulse" when I'm using it ie I depress the trigger and although paint comes it out it is uneven with a regular amount of paint being sprayed quickly followed by hardly any paint at all. This happens even with neat white spirit in the jar. Sometimes when I press the trigger nothing will happen for a couple of seconds then paint will be sprayed then the pulsing starts again. The compressor water trap is clear and Im spraying at 20psi. The pulsing does not happen when the paint jar has been removed and Im spraying air only The airbrush is stripped and cleaned every time I use it and I only ever spray Humbrol enamels thinned with white spirit. The needle is not bent or scratched and when I push it through the handle of the airbrush it is tight when it goes through the teflon seal prior to seating in the head of the airbrush. I have even soaked the nozzle tip and head assembly in cellulose thinners overnight in case there is some hardened paint inside somewhere but that hasnt helped. I might add that I have not sprayed any cellulose thinners through the actual airbrush at any time and the nozzle tip and head assembly is always cleaned with white spirit before attaching to the airbrush Can anyone offer any advice please as Ive never had this problem before and I cant think of anything else to try. Thankyou
  7. Can anyone tell me if there is a UK based distributor for the Thinnerline Circle cutter please. From what I can see its only available on the Shadow Hobby website which I believe is in Canada. Thankyou
  8. I've seen quite a few videos online of models being assembled with TET after the parts have been painted. I'm about to build the Airfix 1/72 B17G Flying Fortress and with so many different coloured parts inside the fuselage it would be useful to glue things together post painting. Does anyone have any experience of this on Humbrol enamels which is my paint of choice? Thanks for any advice
  9. I have an airbrush but itend using it straight from the can after warming it up. Would you recommend decanting?
  10. Hello I am building the Airfix 1/72 Sabre and intend to apply Tamiya AS 12 for a natural metal finish. I usually apply a gloss coat to my models prior to decalling to avoid silvering etc then seal them in with another coat before weathering. I've never used Tamiya AS 12 before so my question is will decals be OK straight onto this paint as its silver and wont show up any silvering if the decals do not settle down properly? Also will I still have the same "give" on this surface as the decals I'm using might need a fair bit of movement before I get them into the proper position. A gloss coat always allow me to do that. Finally will I need to apply a gloss coat on top of the Tamiya AS 12 after decalling or will this kill the natural metal finish? Thankyou for any advice
  11. Building the 1/72 Airfix Sabre and finishing it in NMF with a Tamiya AS-12 spray can. My usual method is two coats of Klear, MicroSet before applying decals then MicroSol afterwards. I've read that an application of Klear over Tamiya AS-12 will "kill" the desired finish so is it ok to use MicroSet/Sol on the NMF without a protective Klear coat? Afterwards what would be the best product to seal the decals prior to pin wash and weathering? Thankyou for any advice
  12. Hello I have an Airfix P40B (first issue) which I wish to finish as a Desert Air Force aircraft Xtradecal 48162 has decals for Neville Duke of 112 squadron but doesn’t have any stencils. Can anyone inform me of a supplier? I know Airfix have now released a Tomahawk 11 version of the kit but they seem reluctant to sell decals for some reason Thsnks for any help
  13. Dave Thankyou for your advice, i will go with that. It's for a silver finish on an Airfix 1/48 Meteor. i know that Tamiya AS-12 is for a NMF finish but I'm finding it difficult to get a good "silver" finish paint. Currently finishing another Meteor and I used Humbrol 11, thinned 50/50 onto a black base and it looked like liquid sugar. Horrible finish, so I want to get better results next time around.
  14. About to try decanting and airbrushing Tamiya AS-12 for my first attempt at NMF. What thinners should I use as I have never used Tamiya paints before? Thankyou for any advice
  15. My usual method for applying a wash is at least two coats of Pledge Floor care, left to cure, then apply Windsor and Newton artists oils thinned with white spirit. When I come to clean off the wash it sometimes lifts the Pledge and paint underneath. I'm giving the Pledge two days at least to set and I'm not drenching the model with the wash or having the clean up cloth/cotton buds soaking with WS I've seen a technique whereby you thin acryllic Tamiya paint with water and washing up liquid and apply this instead of using an oil based wash over an acryllic gloss. Also seen a technique where Klear is mixed 50/50 with water, a small amount of Tamiya acryllic is added, then its brushed over a matt surface to highlight cockpit detail. Would this also work if applied to an acryllic finish I know this subject has been done to death but I'm at the end of a long build on my Airfix 1/48 Meteor and I dont want to ruin it by having a wash go through the paintwork. Model is airbrushed with Humbrol enamels with at least 24 hours between coats. Thankyou in advance for any advice
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