jindy

Drying time for the water/meth mix is reduced, but I can't give you an exact figure. It does make a significant difference when the weather is cooler (by Aussie standards). As far as durability is concerned, I haven't noticed any change to speak of. On another issue, I've used your little turnbuckles a couple of times, and I think they are great. I've also passed some on to fellow modellers, who said they were going to order some. Have you had any further orders from Melbourne, Australia?

Many thanks for your little video on cleaning the H&S airbrush. I have an identical unit and clean it in much the same way, however you raised two points which I will adopt in the future. Firstly, withdrawing the needle through the front to avoid paint contamination of the internals, and secondly, using the plastic pipette as a pressure source to clean the nozzle. Also, I use Medea airbrush cleaner for a final blow-through, and I use Medea airbrush lubricant to lightly coat the needle before inserting it. Because of possible residue, I always blow through a solvent such as distilled water mixed 50/50 with methylated spirit prior to commencing to paint. Incidentally, I use the water/meth mixture as a thinner when painting with Gunze acrylics, but it is incompatible with Tamiya acrylics (use Tamiya thinners) and with Vallejo paints (use distilled water or demineralised water).

Many thanks for the download. It answers a lot of questions. It appears that the outboard engines exhausted through a pipe on the side of the cowl, above and slightly aft of the leading edge of the wing, while the centre engine exhaust pipe seems to pass through the wing to exit below the wing, perhaps to avoid asphyxiating the rear gunner. Once again, many thanks.

I'm about to start construction of the Supermodel kit of the Bv138 flying boat, which most of you probably know, was powered by Junkers Jumo diesel engines. My problem is that neither the kit instructions nor any of my references show the engine exhaust arrangements. If anyone can help with this, I would be very grateful.

Most of my airbrush painting is with Gunze acrylics, and for thinners I use a 50/50 mix of methylated spirit and demineralised or distilled water. I mix a quite thin paint /thinner mix, and I'm prepared to give it several mist coats to build up the depth of colour that I need. Another useful product is a thinner sold here in Oz as GP Thinners, used in the automotive repair industry. You can buy a litre can from your local hardware (ironmonger?) shop for about $AUD8.00, and it last you forever. It's also very good as a thinner for enamels and lacquers, and can also be used with acrylics quite safely. Give it a try!

Greetings from Oz! If you care to look at the website for IPMS Stockholm, in their Tech Tips section, you will see an article about cleaning your airbrush, which is illustrated using a H&S Infinity. In the article, the author recommends using small bristle brushes which are sold by pharmacists for cleaning the spaces between teeth, much as you would use dental floss. These brushes are readily available, even here in Oz, selling for about AUD7 for a pack of 10 or about AUD20 for a pack of 40. They come in a range of about 7 sizes, from about 0.5mm to about 1.0mm.