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Pin

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Everything posted by Pin

  1. Nearly there. Just a few touches left. There is actually very light washing applied, visible "for real" but for some reason it is not quite on the photos. I don't want to apply more
  2. I find it impractical, too long to cure, not to easy go get the proportions right, especially for fine joints, stick to everything. I only use epoxy to fill really big gaps, CA for all other purposes, except transparencies, this is where PVA is a better option
  3. I answered a very similar question just a couple of days ago.
  4. There were five machines built, all slightly different Hmmm, this picture shows longer lower fin and (maybe) the trim tab. I am coming to conclusion that it was not necessary to remove the trim tab. It seems like it was added at some point. That's right
  5. Not a big deal. Just don't forget the rule number one when dealing with freshly painted model - use gloves
  6. As usual, when the plane is close to completion some unbearable inaccuracies arise. This is the instruction and this is the real thing No 179: No trim tab. Interestingly, the rudder part from the kit does not have it so I added it myself and there is also a correct, shorter lower fin. I should have referred to the photos rather than blindly follow the instructions. Also, not all of the rods are shown in the instruction sheet although there are holes for them on the fuselage and floaters.
  7. - no - no It is a pure work of fiction, although I like both the subject and the backup story. And the execution, of course!
  8. For some strange reason I missed this topic. Very interesting, great to see it is getting shape
  9. I am starting to want one too Along with Breadloaf
  10. Yea, I have built their "Comet", really nice kit but I am not totally happy with how I built it, gloss black is very demanding
  11. Thank you but this is a bit unjust. Revell kit was released more than 30 years ago, by the standards of the time it was top notch.
  12. Cannot decide what is more gorgeous, gold (brass to be exact) on silver (well, aluminium. Sigh...) or on red
  13. At last, a coat of white. Engines are also almost ready, those who dealt with Revell engines know the pain
  14. Yes, this time I used super thin CA to join halves, there is no need to use super thin for the wings because it would require less precision due to larger area of contact. Most likely that I will use gel that takes longer to cure and therefore makes it possible to adjust the correct angle.
  15. You should not, CA is the only practical solution for resin kits, as to bonding CA glue is one of the strongest. Tips - I have many First of all, there are many different varieties of CA glue; I use at least three different viscosity options for different purposes, from high viscosity, literally a gel, for fine parts to super low viscosity for fine seams. Apart from glue there are two important auxiliary chemicals - activator and debonder. When I need a fine seam I position the parts together, spill a small puddle of super low viscosity glue, pick a small drop of glue with a used knife blade (no longer sharp enough for its primary function) and just gently touch the seam. Because of low viscosity and capillary effect the glue would fill 3-5 millimeters of the seam and cure in 3-5 seconds with a nice, strong bond. After that I just repeat the process further down the seam, controlling mutual alignment of the parts. Any excess is removed by a cotton bud soaked with debonder. Debonder does not melt cured glue immediately, give it some time to work, some rubbing may also be needed. It was powered by Fiat AS.6 engine, that is essentially two V-12 AS.5 engines driving two coaxial propellers
  16. SBS kits belong to "try not to spoil it with your sausage fingers" category. So it is all about damage limitation
  17. Hm, truly an edge case. Initially I would think "no" but .... who could resist the beer? What do you think, @Robert Stuart ?
  18. <CoHost> Ambulances carry patients so ... I guess it is a yes </CoHost>
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