Mike Mcellaney

Coming from someone who did a fantastic job of the TOS Enterprise I thank you

Thanks Hunter Rose, the lighting was fun to work out but I think I got it right

Well thanks you, glad you like the build so far

Ok time for another update I have been working slowly getting all of the lighting fitted into the model an d lighting the parts I want lit The above two photos shows how I got the lighting to the outer edge of the "wings" basically I channelled out the plastic and ran two red SMD's and glued them in then covered the channelling with 0.5 thou plastic card On this one again I have run a red SMD to the rear also not shown here one to the top This is where I ran the SMD to the top This one is showing the front consul to light this up is warm white LED strip For the floor lighting I formed a light box and fitted warm white LED strip To defuse the light I used left over bits from the Paragrafix back lit sheet, thats the white you can see behind the grills For the lighting of the main cabin I used warm white LED tape and four warm white SMD's First lighting test I then started on the cockpit side consuls lighting these with warm white LED tape and a couple of warm white SMD's Formed light boxes to both sides of the front consuls and and light leaks taken care of with Tulip Showing the front consuls lit up, the centre screen is lit with a single warm white SMD Phot etch tread plate and extra panels added and seam lines checked To allow me to fit the rear panel to the main hull and fill the seams I fitted the resistors as shown the middle two are 1k as these have tow SMD's connected to them and the bottom two are 480 ohm And this is how it all looks The hull is now together and I am working on filling the seams as required, once thats done I will post up some more photos

Time for an update. 1. I have cut out all of the openings for the instrument lighting 2. Made up a light box for the grill lighting on the deck 3. Followed the templates in the Paragrafix set to alter the cockpit side consuls 4. Light blocked all of the parts using Mr Surfacer Black and Mr Color Silver 5. Black primer coat some of the PE to be used with Mr Surfacer Black 6. Made up and soldered together the centre screen, drilled a hole for the SMD, painted the inside white, Mr Surfacer Black as a primer on the outside I think I will go with Warm White for the lighting as there is not a lot of space for the lighting and maybe Cool White might be to bright So on to the photos

Hi Uncle Monty, yes I think the lighting for this will be fun not a lot of room to get anything in, not sure yet if to use LED strip or single LED or SMD yet will need to see what I can get in, I am not expecting the light to be evenly spread over the area of the rear consoles in the rear as the lighting will be very close to the panels

Hi Thom216, glad to have you along for the build hope you enjoy

Hi Hunter Rose, yes its a great looking ship, I like to look at the Raptor as the Jeep of its time, Rugged and designed to go anywhere and do anything

Just finished a revamp of the workroom when doing so started watching BSG, well when sorting out the stash I came across the Raptor so as one does I opened it to see what I had in the box. Now I did get this kit when it first was released back in 2017/18, got the Paragrafix photo etch for it and started work but something else came along so it was put to one side somewhere along the line I also added the Green Strawberry photo etch for both the interior and exterior and I just got the seats from Green Strawberry, I also know somewhere is the mask set from Aztec Dummies still to find that. Well with that out of the way I decided to restart the model and hopefully this time get it finished, so what I want to do is the following 1. Light the models interior 2. Have already added 5mm flikering blue LED's for the engines 3. Add the exterior red lights to the wings and tails 4. See if its possible to add the red marker lights to the underside of the hull you see in some of the Raptor shots 5. Display the model in flight 6. Combine the Paragrafix and Green Strawberry photo etch So this is what I have to work with

Hi John Thanks for confirming you are aware of the differences between the M1 Sherman and the M1 Super Sherman, I thought maybe you were not to sure as the quote you used from one of my posts was for a M1 Super Sherman not a M1 Sherman. For those who are not familiar with IDF Sherman designations the M1 Sherman and I will use the American designation is a M4A1 cast hull with large hatches, a T23 Turret and a 76mm main gun and VVSS suspension, the M1 Super Sherman M4A1E8 , is a M4A1 cast hull with large hatches, a T23 Turret, 76mm main gun and HVSS suspension This is the quote plus some you added by yourself , now please remember I wrote this regarding a M1 Super Sherman not a M1 Sherman now why you would quote this in a M1 Sherman build I can quite figure out as it does not have any relevance to what you are building. The bolder section is what you added to what I had written "There is a tab on each hatch which somebody said that they shouldn't be there as they were only added once they became museum pieces, and these tabs were so that the hatches could be padlocked shut. Well, that's not strictly true, as I have at least one photo of an in service M1 with one of these tabs attached. Granted, it doesn't appear to be the norm, but as they say, never say never." John you also said you get your information from an expert Dr Robert Manasherob Well I have gone through the book, Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 14 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Super Sherman and noted the following 1. In the Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 14 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Super Sherman every photo that is published of a in service M1 Super Sherman around 80 of them, not one shows and hasp and staple on any of the hatches so Dr Robert Manasherob going by the photos he used confirms what I said 2. In the Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 14 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Super Sherman the only photos published that show the hasp and staple securing the hatches are on preserved tanks so Dr Robert Manasherob again going by the photos he used confirms what I said 3. In Tom Gannon's book Israeli Sherman's second addition on page 149 photo 248 shows the two extra handles as I pointed out in my original post and I quote "There are two extra grab handles, also most likely for locking down the hatches in storage" 4. John surely you must have Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 12 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Sherman if so you would have around 20 photos showing hasp and staples fitted to the hatches of M1 Sherman's, these are a French fitting not a IDF fitting and were on a fair number of the M1 Sherman's delivered to the IDF just before the 1956 war, and I would say Tom Gannon has got it right and they were used by the French to secure the tank when in storage, and as the IDF did not have the option but to use them to defend there country, now I have not seen a photo to confirm this but I would think at the first opportunity part or all of the fittings would be removed as it would obviously be a hazard to the crews safety John as I finish this I still can't figure out why you would use what I had write about a M1 Super Sherman in you build of a M1 Sherman. To someone new to IDF Sherman's they could very easily get confused and think you are also saying the M1 Super Sherman had the hasp and staples fitted as well and I had posted wrong information on the subject.

I will be starting this build again as soon as I have my 2 M51 Sherman's completed, just been remodelling the work room over the last few weeks but almost finished so I can get back to building again

Peter has got it just right there when he said about over priced chipping fluids, you get the same if not better results using a cheep hairspray I you want to see hairspray being used for chipping go on youtube and search for Panzermister36 he does a how to and also Michael Rinaldi hairspray technique Never tried to brush on chipping fluid so I could not say, I only ever sprayed it on but found I need two coats Hairspray you can decant it and spray it through a airbrush or just spry it from the can it comes in Salt Chipping is a different to using chipping fluid, its normally used by aircraft modellers and its a great way to to get the patchy weathered effect seen on US Navy Jets normally you wet the area with water where you are going to apply the salt (Sea Salt not table salt) let it dry, now this is after applying your base colour, you then spray a lighter or darker shade of the base colour let it dry then wash off the salt with water (Never thought about using it with Hairspray thanks Peter must give it a try) Again you best bet is to look on youtube so you and see it all being done Hope this helps

John if you are going to quote me on something I said in another posting please quote me correctly, I am fully aware that the M1 Sherman had the hasp and staple fittings on them and at no point in the post did I say the M1 Sherman did not have them fitted ( I have more than just one photos showing this) what I was referring to was a M1 Super Sherman two different tanks just so you don't get confused basically the M1 Sherman has VVSS suspension and the M1 Super Sherman has HVSS suspension, the hasp and staples were already fitted to some of the M1 Sherman's when the were delivered from France so its not an IDF fitting. I have not seen a photo showing one M1 Super Sherman fitted with a Hasp and Staple except in Preserved or on Museum photos, so if you have any showing this fitted to a M1 Super Sherman please share for as you know I always say Never say Never with the IDF The posting I put what you are referring to is this one in the cold war section The Pearls of Modelling IDF M1 Super Sherman's and M51 Sherman's, reference photos, aftermarket items and kit bashing This will allow anyone interested to read the full version of what I posted

Hi Darryl just to let you know yes it will fit with a bit of work, here is one I fitted as a test onto a Amusing Hobby turret to see if it would fit I agree with Das Abteilung the Panzer Art replacment wheels are the best, but remember these are sized for the AFV kit and there is a slight size difference between the AFV wheels and the Amusing Hobby ones not much the AFV wheels are 22mm in diameter and the Amusing Hobby wheels are 23.5mm in diameter If you are looking for Panzer Art wheel check our Wildcat Models web site I bought 5 sets from there 2 weeks ago and he was still showing 10 sets in stock at £13.80 per set

Hi dov, Glad you liked what I put together and you approve as you have first hand knowledge, I presume you have served in the IDF I have always had an interest in the IDF and the IAF and I have been buying books on the subjects since the early 1980's and now I also down load photos and have folders on almost every IDF AFV, APC or SPG and the same with the IAF When I start a project I always try to find a photo or photos of the particular subject I wish to build, then cross reference them to check details for as you said IDF subject change very quickly, so I am looking a fixtures and fittings, stowage, unit markings, weathering see if I can identify a "normal" layout of items within the company, so even if I only have one photo of want I want to build I can be 95% certain that things will be right Taking the M1 Super Sherman I used as an example, as I said you can see the modeller has used museum and preserved tank photos to base their build on and does not really seam to have a full understanding of what should and should not be on a tank in service, This why I have found always do your own research and don't use someone else's build as a reference

I hope the following is of help to people, new modellers and old ones if you decide to do IDF Sherman's, these are just my observations and please do not take them as gospel. Modelling IDF Sherman's is a minefield I have always found it safer to find a photo or photo's of a Sherman you wish to model and try to stick to it as best you can. If anyone has any other information please add it to the thread. The other thing I avoid is using other models as reference for a build, I will show you why further down Recently I have been building a number of M51 Sherman's and for the Batch 2's and Batch 3 I decided I would fit them out with stowage, so out I went and bought a number of the Legend M51 stowage sets, then started looking at reference photos to see how, where and what they actually carried and what could be used from the Legend set. I was surprised at the amount that I could not use on the M51's as it is sold as stowage for the M51. Legend M51 Stowage Set What I can use What I can't use I then looked at what could be used on the M1 Super Sherman, well almost the same again plus the two wooden crates Looking at on line reference photos plus the ones I have in books on IDF Sherman's one thing you notice on the M51 and the M1 Super Sherman is the camouflage net is on the left hand side on 99.9% of the M51's and the M1 Super Sherman, not the right as shown and moulded to fit there by Legend (I say 99.9% as you never say never with the IDF) you may be able to make it fit but you will need to grind away a lot of the resin to reshape and then add more Magic Sculpt or something similar to get it to sit and look right, if you are good a sculpting you could make your own using the Legend part as reference and for size. Again with the placement of the other stowage on the engine deck you just don't see it to this extent on the real Tanks M51 reference photos M51 Batch description and main features to identify them externally Batch One or Alef The original M51 with the R-975 radial engine, the engine deck as per the M1 Sherman, lower hull rear as per the M1 Sherman, muzzle brake early type without the reinforcing, no secondary generator, stowage as per the Tamiya M51 less the jerry cans and spare wheels on the side, only one jerry can on the rear left and field telephone on the right as per the M51 build instructions, this can be done by kit bashing the Tamiya M51 and M1 Sherman kits, also remove the guide ribs to the drive sprockets and add the armoured cover plate to the roof of the turret where the hole was cut to allow the main gun to be depressed lower when in a hull down position Batch Two or Beth The first M51 with the Cummins VT-8-460 V8 turbocharged diesel engine, this is basically the Tamiya M51 OOB, this would give your the M4A1 hull based variant or take the Tamiya M4A3E8 kit, take everything from the M51 kit and fit onto the M4A3E8 plus scratch build two additional stowage bins and move the track stowage to the turret sides, as the M4A3 hulls according to all of the available photographic evidence always had this stowage configuration, also remove the guide ribs to the drive sprockets and add the armoured cover plate to the roof of the turret where the hole was cut to allow the main gun to be depressed lower when in a hull down position Batch Three or Gimel The lower part of the engine deck now has the 3 louvers. However, the exhaust pipe of the two first batches is now gone, and plated over. The exhaust is now placed on the top of the engine deck, in front of the gun cradle. For this you can use the Tamiya M51 combined with the Legend M51 1973 conversion set. Stowage layout for this version can be either as per the Tamiya M51 or with additional stowage boxes and the spare track moved to the turret, also remove the guide ribs to the drive sprockets and add the armoured cover plate to the roof of the turret where the hole was cut to allow the main gun to be depressed lower when in a hull down position Batch Four or Dalet The lower part of the engine deck is as on Batch Three, as is the exhaust. The upper rear hull has been cut off, and repositioned with a spacer, so the angle of the rear hull is less steep when compared to the original hull. I would think this change, was probably done to help increase the airflow in the engine, to help with the cooling, I think the Dragon M51 Sherman would be the best kit to use for the one as the rear plate of the hull is a separate item and if the angle is wrong I think it would be easier to fix than trying to cut the Tamiya one off and extending the track guards. (I think the Dragon kit is a Batch Four) Other minor changes of the Type Four The .50cal removed A .30cal on a scissors mount fitted on the commanders cupola in place of the removed .50cal A large bin on the upper rear hull. A 60mm mortar located between the commanders and loaders hatch. Infrared periscopes on drivers, co-drivers and commanders hatches. Infrared projector on hull front. These changes are not exclusively applied to the Batch Four, some features mentioned above will also appear on vehicles of the other earlier Types. Again find a photo reference of the Tank you want to build As I said at the beginning would advise against using another model as reference for your own build. This what I mean, I found these photos on a Google search for M51/M1 Sherman, M1 Super Sherman stowage. This is a M1 Super Sherman build and when I first looked at the photos of the model I thought this looks good, but on looking closer you start to notice things wrong and not just little things either, it looks at first to be a kit bash of three kit but when you look closer it more looks like using left over bits from three kits, some PE, a brass gun barrel and the Legend M51 stowage set to build a M1 Super Sherman I will post the photos and show you what I mean along with M1 Super Sherman photos 1. So looking at the first photo I would say the kits used are Tamiya M51 for the hull and running gear, Tamiya M4A3 76mm turret, and a Dragon kit of a M4A1 2. Why I think this is a left over parts build, look at the rear lights from a Dragon kit fitted at an angle they should be upright but these are too big for the PE used, the PE guards are for a M4A3 hull not a M4A1 hull why would you use Dragon rear lights ones if you are using a Tamiya M51 hull? 3. Stowage as I said before the camouflage net is on the right hand side would normally be fitted on the left, I have only found one photo showing the net in this location but then the infantry telephone is wrong 4. The stowage, going on photos of the real tanks the stowage was kept clear of the engine deck and on the turret it would be fitted to the rear .50cal stowage brackets as per the photo below not tied between them on rope or wire, again I will not say this never happened its just photos say this was not the normal way, the stowage its self is not tied down, this would never happen on armour you always tie every thing down or you loose it, a open .50cal ammo box on the rear deck open, again you would lose the contents 5. The infantry telephone this is the original pattern fitted to the tank when supplied from France which would date the tank to the late 1950's very early 1960's, I could be wrong on this one but the fold up stretcher on the engine deck, I have not seen this on any IDF tank before 1970, again look at photos of the real tanks used in the 1967 6 day war look at the infantry phones they always seem to be IDF pattern 1. Look at the loaders hatch the rectangular item on there slightly angled up thats a hasp and staple to fit a padlock to, this what happens when you look at museum tanks, or photos of preserved tanks, this a common item added to allow the hatch to be locked from the outside to stop anyone from getting into the tank when its being transported to shows, its east to hide and with the hatch open you don't see it, the other hatches are normally padlocked and chained from the inside with the last exit point being the loaders hatch 2. The small spot light on the roof of the turret is in front of the loader periscope blocking his view 1. Look at the drivers and bow gunners hatches, the white plastic card rectangles, this time the modeller has even gone to the trouble of making hasp and staples and fitting them onto the hatches, its details like this that indicates the modeller is looking at museum or preserved tanks and not really understanding what should and should not be on a tank in service, look and the real thing 2. Look at the extra grab handles next to the hatch grab handles, again I have seen this on a few but not many preserved tanks again used to secure the hatches to stop anyone gaining access to the tank when its being transported, you need to ask yourself would these last two items be on a operational tank that could allow your enemy to lock you in your tank 3. Hatches again, this time the periscopes, opened up but mismatched guards and not fitted properly to the hatches looks like only the rear legs are glued at the back not the front 3. Look at the front lights Tamiya ones for the kit remember the rear ones, the light guards again look to be M4A3 ones not M4A1 4. Yes the spot light is in front of the loaders periscope So I hope you see by the above example why not to use another modellers build as reference for your own build, and it also shows the importance of doing research on what you are building and have a basic understanding of what you are looking at and asking yourself should that be there. It also shows don't take it for granted the Manufactures have got it right look at the Legend Stowage set Some M1 Super Sherman reference photos

Well the M4A1 hull version is almost ready for primer, I have decided to base the model on this M51 Sherman during the 6 Day War, I like the look of it in a wheat field just a bit different to the normal desert you think off, and I may try a vignette depicting this So onto the turret 1. Textured the turret 2. Filled the kit location for the spare antenna brackets (thats the white plastic you see on the rear counter weight) 3. Enhanced the weld bead 4. Added the casting numbers using the Archer resin decals 5. Added the 2 missing screw heads for the gun trunnion 6. Added the blade sight to the turret 7. Fitted the spare antennas in the correct position and made up brackets for them from spare photo etch and covered them in tissue and tied them down 8. Added some detail to the inside of the commanders hatch 9. Made and fitted the armoured patch to cover the hole cut into the turret roof to allow the main gun to be depressed when in a hull down position 10. Fitted PE chains to the smoke dischargers 11. Fitted a 3D printed .50cal gun lock as I want to show the air cooled .50cal barrel fitted into it 12. Altered the kit muzzle brake to back date to the Alef type by removing the additional bracing 13. Added a bent antenna mount to allow the antenna to be tied down facing forward The Hull 1. Added mesh to the grouser box covers on the rear 2. Replaced the plastic engine cut off with a more detailed resin one 3. Added chains and extended pins to all of the armoured caps on the engine deck 4. Opened the periscopes on the drivers and bow gunners hatches 5. Replaced the moulded on grab handles with copper wire 6. Added lights from the spare box with 3D printed brush guards and plug to fill the hole when the lights removed and PE chains for them 7. Replaced the hook for the barbed wire with a PE part and added the welds to it 8. Added the hull founder mark with a PE part 9. Added the barbed wire bracket and tow cable bracket 10. Added the track guards supports 11. Added cast marking to the transmission cover, PE chains to the tow shackle pins, added the tow shackle pins and the supports 12. Fitted 3D printed jerry can holders 13. Fitted 3D printed rear light guards 14. PE chain and pin for the wrench mounted on the rear hull 15. Added the securing bolts and PE chains for the rear access doors 16. PE chains to the tow shackle pins, added the tow shackle pins 17. Fitted all of the tools with PE brackets and tie down points and fitted them to the hull 18. Distressed all of the road wheels 19. Adjusted the Legend resin load to allow it to fit better on the rear and "fit" around the jerry can and holder and the armoured telephone Well thats it now until I get the model painted, I have just noticed looking back on the phots I have broken two of the tow shackle pins will need to replace them

With the Batch One M51 completed its time to move on to the Batch Two, this was the first version of the M51 fitted with the Cummins VT-8-460 V8 Diesel engine, to allow the fitting of this engine it required the redesign of the engine deck, the rear of the lower hull to accommodate the revised exhaust outlet and attaching an armoured frame to extend the lower engine doors to accommodate the second fan belt on the new engine , adding additional armour plate to the rear of the hull to protect the large double radiator fitted to the rear end of the engine bay, plus a redesign of the external stowage. As this is a double build one of the M51 will be on the M4A1 hull (Tamiya M51 basically OOB), the other will be based on the M4A3 hull so a kit bash of the Tamiya M51 and the Tamiya M4A3E8, both builds will have additional items added from Legend and Mr Models, plus some 3D printed parts So onto the builds M4A1 1. Filled all of the location holes for brush guards 2. Added bolt detail to the lower hull and around the exhaust outlet 3. Textured the front transmission housing 4. Added weld detail to the splash guards 5. Replaced the moulded on grab handles with brass wire M4A3 1. Filled all of the location holes for the brush guards, and the field telephone 2. Removed and filled the mounting points for gun travel lock 3. Textured the front transmission housing 4. Removed and filled on the hull sides all of the fixing points for the track guard supports as these will need to be relocated to suit the new stowage layout 5. Filled the holes on the track guards and removed what looked like joint pieces on the track guards 6. Fitted the rear engine deck from the M51 including the side splash guards, and infilled the cut out in the front of the deck as this is to accommodate the turret ring on the M4A1 hull, removed and replaced the rear plate with plastic card as the original one as a few millimetres short, added the bolt detail 7. Cut down and fitted the gun travel lock brackets 8. Added the weld detail to the splash guards 9. Replaced the moulded on grab handles with brass wire 10. Made good any welds removed and infilled the exhaust deflector mounting points on the rear hull 11. Altered the lower rear hull to match the Batch Two layout using parts removed from the M51 And finally both together

Are you building for competition or going to do a cutaway model to show the interior? if so then the Resicast set is the way to go around £95.00 to £100.00 plus shipping. If you are building for a diorama only want to have some thing inside the turret and or the hull when the hatches are open consider looking at CMK the do interior sets for the M4 Sherman they do one for the Hull and one for the Turret both sets around £40.00 plus shipping, so if only the turret hatches are open then you could just get the turret one and the same with the hull as what you will seen through the hatch is minimal I am sure you could adapt the CMK kits to suit, as Das Abtelung said the turrets and hulls are different shapes so you may have some difficulty fitting the RFM interior into a Firefly without a lot of cutting and shunting to get it to fit CMK Hull Set CMK Turret Set Resicast Firefly Interior Das Abteilung as I have said to you before check your information before posting I have been on this Forum nine months before you so not a new member.

Well you can never have to many Sherman's and if they just happen to be IDF well all the better

Glad you liked it, thanks for looking

Thanks for the heads up on the paint, its the first time I have used Mig acrylic and acrylic thinner, normal I will use a lacquer based paint or Mr Colour or Tamiya paint thinned with lacquer thinner

This is the Tamiya M51 Sherman backdated with parts from the Tamiya M1 Sherman, Mr Models Metal Gun Barrel, Shapeway 3D printed parts and some Legend Stowage for the M51, to represent the first batch of M51 Sherman's to enter service with the IDF around 1962, this version had the Continental R-975 engine fitted, the first pattern muzzle break no reinforcing bracing to the sides, exhaust deflector, original stowage layout only one stowage box either side, no spare wheels on the hull side, only one jerry can on the rear and spare track on the hull side. Inspiration was taken from the photo on page 39 of The Lioness and Lion of the line Volume 2 M50 and M51, showing a M51 Batch 1 in the Negev desert on a possible live fire exercise or as the caption reads "during a long drill that took place in the beginning of the 1960's". This is the first bit of armour I have built in years and I loved it, tried out a lot of new techniques well for me anyway, some I liked some not so, worst one was using the VMS Satin varnish it left a gritty texture to some of the surfaces, (Still trying to figure out what I did wrong as a test piece later it went down nice and smooth) but a few coats of Future helped to level it out a bit. Well I have enjoyed this so much I have started on the Batch 2 M51's one based on the M4A3 hull and one on on the M4A1 hull (Tamiya M51 kits combined with the Tamiya M4A3E8 Korean War Kit)

Ok calling this one done, only another four to go, will post more photos in RFI tomorrow as I need to get to bed as I start work tonight at 20.00 Will be starting the Batch two M51,s tomorrow as its my rest day as I don't start again until Sunday at 21.45, not looking forward to it as I am driving a N8 going from Hainault to Oxford Circus, and if England win two route from our garage the N8 and N25 will be screwed, but saying that we won't be doing the full route will most likely get a turn at either TCR, City Thameslink or St Pauls

John, I do apologise for not replying to your post sooner and I hope it helps when you do get round to building one, look forward to seeing you back building soon