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Mike Mcellaney

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  1. Coming from someone who did a fantastic job of the TOS Enterprise I thank you
  2. Thanks Hunter Rose, the lighting was fun to work out but I think I got it right
  3. Ok time for another update I have been working slowly getting all of the lighting fitted into the model an d lighting the parts I want lit The above two photos shows how I got the lighting to the outer edge of the "wings" basically I channelled out the plastic and ran two red SMD's and glued them in then covered the channelling with 0.5 thou plastic card On this one again I have run a red SMD to the rear also not shown here one to the top This is where I ran the SMD to the top This one is showing the front consul to light this up is warm white LED strip For the floor lighting I formed a light box and fitted warm white LED strip To defuse the light I used left over bits from the Paragrafix back lit sheet, thats the white you can see behind the grills For the lighting of the main cabin I used warm white LED tape and four warm white SMD's First lighting test I then started on the cockpit side consuls lighting these with warm white LED tape and a couple of warm white SMD's Formed light boxes to both sides of the front consuls and and light leaks taken care of with Tulip Showing the front consuls lit up, the centre screen is lit with a single warm white SMD Phot etch tread plate and extra panels added and seam lines checked To allow me to fit the rear panel to the main hull and fill the seams I fitted the resistors as shown the middle two are 1k as these have tow SMD's connected to them and the bottom two are 480 ohm And this is how it all looks The hull is now together and I am working on filling the seams as required, once thats done I will post up some more photos
  4. Time for an update. 1. I have cut out all of the openings for the instrument lighting 2. Made up a light box for the grill lighting on the deck 3. Followed the templates in the Paragrafix set to alter the cockpit side consuls 4. Light blocked all of the parts using Mr Surfacer Black and Mr Color Silver 5. Black primer coat some of the PE to be used with Mr Surfacer Black 6. Made up and soldered together the centre screen, drilled a hole for the SMD, painted the inside white, Mr Surfacer Black as a primer on the outside I think I will go with Warm White for the lighting as there is not a lot of space for the lighting and maybe Cool White might be to bright So on to the photos
  5. Hi Uncle Monty, yes I think the lighting for this will be fun not a lot of room to get anything in, not sure yet if to use LED strip or single LED or SMD yet will need to see what I can get in, I am not expecting the light to be evenly spread over the area of the rear consoles in the rear as the lighting will be very close to the panels
  6. Hi Thom216, glad to have you along for the build hope you enjoy
  7. Hi Hunter Rose, yes its a great looking ship, I like to look at the Raptor as the Jeep of its time, Rugged and designed to go anywhere and do anything
  8. Just finished a revamp of the workroom when doing so started watching BSG, well when sorting out the stash I came across the Raptor so as one does I opened it to see what I had in the box. Now I did get this kit when it first was released back in 2017/18, got the Paragrafix photo etch for it and started work but something else came along so it was put to one side somewhere along the line I also added the Green Strawberry photo etch for both the interior and exterior and I just got the seats from Green Strawberry, I also know somewhere is the mask set from Aztec Dummies still to find that. Well with that out of the way I decided to restart the model and hopefully this time get it finished, so what I want to do is the following 1. Light the models interior 2. Have already added 5mm flikering blue LED's for the engines 3. Add the exterior red lights to the wings and tails 4. See if its possible to add the red marker lights to the underside of the hull you see in some of the Raptor shots 5. Display the model in flight 6. Combine the Paragrafix and Green Strawberry photo etch So this is what I have to work with
  9. Hi John Thanks for confirming you are aware of the differences between the M1 Sherman and the M1 Super Sherman, I thought maybe you were not to sure as the quote you used from one of my posts was for a M1 Super Sherman not a M1 Sherman. For those who are not familiar with IDF Sherman designations the M1 Sherman and I will use the American designation is a M4A1 cast hull with large hatches, a T23 Turret and a 76mm main gun and VVSS suspension, the M1 Super Sherman M4A1E8 , is a M4A1 cast hull with large hatches, a T23 Turret, 76mm main gun and HVSS suspension This is the quote plus some you added by yourself , now please remember I wrote this regarding a M1 Super Sherman not a M1 Sherman now why you would quote this in a M1 Sherman build I can quite figure out as it does not have any relevance to what you are building. The bolder section is what you added to what I had written "There is a tab on each hatch which somebody said that they shouldn't be there as they were only added once they became museum pieces, and these tabs were so that the hatches could be padlocked shut. Well, that's not strictly true, as I have at least one photo of an in service M1 with one of these tabs attached. Granted, it doesn't appear to be the norm, but as they say, never say never." John you also said you get your information from an expert Dr Robert Manasherob Well I have gone through the book, Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 14 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Super Sherman and noted the following 1. In the Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 14 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Super Sherman every photo that is published of a in service M1 Super Sherman around 80 of them, not one shows and hasp and staple on any of the hatches so Dr Robert Manasherob going by the photos he used confirms what I said 2. In the Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 14 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Super Sherman the only photos published that show the hasp and staple securing the hatches are on preserved tanks so Dr Robert Manasherob again going by the photos he used confirms what I said 3. In Tom Gannon's book Israeli Sherman's second addition on page 149 photo 248 shows the two extra handles as I pointed out in my original post and I quote "There are two extra grab handles, also most likely for locking down the hatches in storage" 4. John surely you must have Lioness & Lion of the line Volume 12 by Dr Robert Manasherob M1 Sherman if so you would have around 20 photos showing hasp and staples fitted to the hatches of M1 Sherman's, these are a French fitting not a IDF fitting and were on a fair number of the M1 Sherman's delivered to the IDF just before the 1956 war, and I would say Tom Gannon has got it right and they were used by the French to secure the tank when in storage, and as the IDF did not have the option but to use them to defend there country, now I have not seen a photo to confirm this but I would think at the first opportunity part or all of the fittings would be removed as it would obviously be a hazard to the crews safety John as I finish this I still can't figure out why you would use what I had write about a M1 Super Sherman in you build of a M1 Sherman. To someone new to IDF Sherman's they could very easily get confused and think you are also saying the M1 Super Sherman had the hasp and staples fitted as well and I had posted wrong information on the subject.
  10. I will be starting this build again as soon as I have my 2 M51 Sherman's completed, just been remodelling the work room over the last few weeks but almost finished so I can get back to building again
  11. Peter has got it just right there when he said about over priced chipping fluids, you get the same if not better results using a cheep hairspray I you want to see hairspray being used for chipping go on youtube and search for Panzermister36 he does a how to and also Michael Rinaldi hairspray technique Never tried to brush on chipping fluid so I could not say, I only ever sprayed it on but found I need two coats Hairspray you can decant it and spray it through a airbrush or just spry it from the can it comes in Salt Chipping is a different to using chipping fluid, its normally used by aircraft modellers and its a great way to to get the patchy weathered effect seen on US Navy Jets normally you wet the area with water where you are going to apply the salt (Sea Salt not table salt) let it dry, now this is after applying your base colour, you then spray a lighter or darker shade of the base colour let it dry then wash off the salt with water (Never thought about using it with Hairspray thanks Peter must give it a try) Again you best bet is to look on youtube so you and see it all being done Hope this helps
  12. John if you are going to quote me on something I said in another posting please quote me correctly, I am fully aware that the M1 Sherman had the hasp and staple fittings on them and at no point in the post did I say the M1 Sherman did not have them fitted ( I have more than just one photos showing this) what I was referring to was a M1 Super Sherman two different tanks just so you don't get confused basically the M1 Sherman has VVSS suspension and the M1 Super Sherman has HVSS suspension, the hasp and staples were already fitted to some of the M1 Sherman's when the were delivered from France so its not an IDF fitting. I have not seen a photo showing one M1 Super Sherman fitted with a Hasp and Staple except in Preserved or on Museum photos, so if you have any showing this fitted to a M1 Super Sherman please share for as you know I always say Never say Never with the IDF The posting I put what you are referring to is this one in the cold war section The Pearls of Modelling IDF M1 Super Sherman's and M51 Sherman's, reference photos, aftermarket items and kit bashing This will allow anyone interested to read the full version of what I posted
  13. Hi Darryl just to let you know yes it will fit with a bit of work, here is one I fitted as a test onto a Amusing Hobby turret to see if it would fit I agree with Das Abteilung the Panzer Art replacment wheels are the best, but remember these are sized for the AFV kit and there is a slight size difference between the AFV wheels and the Amusing Hobby ones not much the AFV wheels are 22mm in diameter and the Amusing Hobby wheels are 23.5mm in diameter If you are looking for Panzer Art wheel check our Wildcat Models web site I bought 5 sets from there 2 weeks ago and he was still showing 10 sets in stock at £13.80 per set
  14. Hi dov, Glad you liked what I put together and you approve as you have first hand knowledge, I presume you have served in the IDF I have always had an interest in the IDF and the IAF and I have been buying books on the subjects since the early 1980's and now I also down load photos and have folders on almost every IDF AFV, APC or SPG and the same with the IAF When I start a project I always try to find a photo or photos of the particular subject I wish to build, then cross reference them to check details for as you said IDF subject change very quickly, so I am looking a fixtures and fittings, stowage, unit markings, weathering see if I can identify a "normal" layout of items within the company, so even if I only have one photo of want I want to build I can be 95% certain that things will be right Taking the M1 Super Sherman I used as an example, as I said you can see the modeller has used museum and preserved tank photos to base their build on and does not really seam to have a full understanding of what should and should not be on a tank in service, This why I have found always do your own research and don't use someone else's build as a reference
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