desmojen

I have a couple of Molaks, they're ok, just as good as Humbrol. I usually work on the assumption that if it's still a liquid it's ok, and it generally is. Jen.

What about a list of what's allowed then? I think I have a couple of kits that I could do if I have time. Those that I have are, Buccaneer (RAF), Lightning single and two seat and I have a Matchbox Wessex. Jen.

Answered my own question, there's a review on Hyperscale which states that this is a rebox of the old AMT kit. Jen.

Anybody had a look at this kit? I'd like one, especially in the RAAF type markings. Is this a Mauve re-pop? Or Hasegawa? Italeri original? Is it any good? Jen.

Shame I didn't spot this sooner, I have two Xtradecal sheets for this one! Here's how mine came out Jen.

Just buy a compressor. Air cans aren't worth the time of day, and although the spare tyre thing works and is cheaper, it's a load of hassle because you have to go and keep pumping it up! I bought a new (noisy) compressor for £60 a couple of years back off e bay, and recently replaced it with a second hand silent one for £50, so they're not all that dear, especially when you consider that the large size air cans are a tenner a pop now. Jen.

That looks more like the silver paint picking up the swirls in the platic to me. Thats one of the reasons why it's best to use a primer under silvers, Alclad does it too. Auto primer and plastic primer are essentially the same thing, the plastic primer has additives in it to help it stick to auto plastics. Normal primer will stick to our models because it is different plastic. Mike is right though, if the primer is a bit 'hot' just use light coats to build up to the depth you need. You can always flat it if it comes out a bit rough. Jen.

What you need is an Olfa 'P' cutter to reinstate the panel lines that you lose when sanding. It's easy to say keep sanding to a minimum, or use tape to protect the areas close to a seam, but sometimes the seam is stepped and there is no alternative but to use larger areas of putty. I always use sanding stcks, even on curved surfaces. It's easy to keep it curved if you remember to angle the stick suitably. I then use wet n dry to finish up and coat the area e=with Tamiya liquid filler. This fills any reamaining pinholes and allows for spotting of imperfections. Jen.

In the photos in my modellers datafile you have a choice between black, grey and interior green. The grey looks like a medium sea grey sort of hue and the one in interior green has been restored. Jen.

That is looking lovely. I like the work around the tail, very convincing. The only small niggle I have with it is the gravity defying seatbelts, but they won't be so obvious when you look at it all built up. Jen.

Juanjo school certainly paid off John, cockpit looks great! Bit of a bummer with the wheel bay though. Personally I'd rather have a nice wheel bay and lose the avionics bit, but that's just me <shrugs> Jen.

I did the 1/72 of that one when I was a kid, always been my favourite Tomcat scheme. Yours is fantastic though! Jen.

Sea Hurricane for me, that's gorgeous! I see who you are now, I recognise the Sea Fury from Telford. I stopped and had a very short chat with you about your FAA Corsair that I liked so much Jen.

Ooh, careful boys, you're starting to make sense! I looked at the sprues for the Dragon P-51 in Hong Kong. Now, ARC have basically made it known that that kit is good only for the dustbin because it has heavy panel lines and rivets. So I had a look. Yes, the surface detail is heavy - but how hard is it to put primer on and sand it FFS? Other than the panel line detail it looks a cracking kit, and it's cheap too. I could have bought it for under £20 in HK and I don't think it's much more than that here. And as for critique of sprues in bags in a photo? Please, spare me Jen.

Thanks Benny, very sweet of you to say so! I've done a bit of weathering since that pic, and to my eyes it looks a lot better now. Modelmadness, You guess right, the masking is Blu-Tak sausages which are filled in with Mr Masking Sol. It's basically the same as Maskol, but made by Gunze Sangyo. The best thing about it is that it has it's own brush inside the lid, unfortunately, it seems to like eating paint though. Phreak, thanks for the offer but I'd like to fit SNEB pods if I can find any. I live in the other 'nam' - Lyneham.

Jaguar? (Vain hope I know!!) Give that man a lollipop! I have a photo too, but the nice man at Trumpeter asked me not to put it on the internet. I can understand that, given that one blurry photo would cause a storm of abuse from the rivet counters! Gary, now SNEB pods I do like. Biggest problem being, I don't have any Anybody got any SNEB pods? Jen.

Thanks Cop, I'm afraid it's not a Lightning Gary, I think I'm supposed to fit the recce pod, but I don't really want to because it's ugly. I have several pics of 41 Sqn Phantoms at this time, including a couple of 495, and they have quite a variety of stores fitted. I was planning to fit the big wing tanks and a set of Sidewinders. Of course, I'm open to suggestions from those with more knowledge then me (most of you!) Jen.

Wow, thanks peeps! Skii, very firmly canopies down - nice smooth lines Mike, lol, guess it should have been a phanfare huh! Phreak, NO WAY! Small world I'd love to do a 1/32 Phantom too, but I've nowhere near enough space for one. As for Trumpeter........... I did see a large scale British jet aircraft at the resin masters stage - but it wasn't a Phantom Jen.

Well, I thought I'd take the plunge and put a jolly old Phantom on here. My current main project and part of a GB over at UAMF. I'm using the Hasegawa 1/48 kit and I have embellished it with a pair of Airwaves resin seats, other than that it is OOB. Here's a couple of shots of what I've done so far. Front cockpit, all standard, not very exciting stuff. Airwaves seats, painted and ready to go in. I made a cover for the rear instrument panel from green stuff. Seats in and cover painted. I think it looks quite acceptable Comedy 'What If' masking camo! I had a minor disaster with the masking actually. When I had sprayed the green and demasked it, I found that the Mr Masking sol had eaten away areas of the grey paint underneath rendering the effort of masking the thing in the first place useless! I proceeded to spend nearly three hours touching the grey back in freehand and ended up with it looking like this. Here's a shot of the initial work on the metally bits at the back, all done with Alclad. And here's where I'm at as of last night. About half way through decalling. I'll keep you updated as I progress further. Jen.

Woah, there's some pretty scary looking skin ripples on that little beauty! I wonder how much of that is caused by the throwing around! I notice in the flying pics that the stbd rear fuselage is covered in oil too......... Jen.

Ok, one of my Hong Kong purchases was a Tamiya 1/48 Wildcat. It's a kit I've wanted to pick up for ages now and I snapped this one up off the reduced shelf when I saw it! I will do it one of the kit supplied versions, but I've no idea what the colours are (note this is for the early war two tone scheme with colourful national insignia) Tamiya call them 'Blue Gray' and 'Light Gray' and quote mixes of XF18+XF2 3:1 and XF19+XF2 2:1. I use Gunze and Vallejo acrylics, does anyone know roughly what those colours equate to in those ranges? TIA, Jen.

I can't remember off the top of my head, but they did come up with some effective tactics. Perhaps some of our more learned colleagues will fill in the details before I get home......... It's actually an ideal scenario for me, my two most favourite aircraft! Jen.

Well it doesn't take too much working out....... The first Mk 19s entered service in May 1944, and, by the end of the war, the type had virtually replaced the earlier Mk XI. A total of 225 were built with production ceasing in early 1946, but they were used in front-line RAF service until April 1954. In fact, the last time a Mk 19 was used to perform an operational sortie was in 1963 when one was used in battle trials against an English Electric Lightning to determine how best a Lightning should engage piston engined aircraft. This information was needed in case RAF Lightnings might have to engage P-51 Mustangs in the Indonesian conflict of the time. There is an unsubstantiated rumour that the air combat simulator used to train RAF Tornado pilots retains the aerodynamic data for this Spitfire, and that the simulated aircraft is sometimes allocated a pair of Sidewinder missiles to even the odds. Quote from Wikipedia as I'm at work. I'm pretty sure I have a photograph of the two aircraft on the ground together at home as well. Biggest problem is that I don't have a PR19 in model form! Jen.

Heheh, I've had a cunning plan as to a way of modelling a Spitfire in the cold war anyway! Jen.

That is definately one of the better Spitfires I've seen Neil, you are really quite good at this modelling lark aren't you! :whistling: Jen.