Jump to content

desmojen

Banned
  • Posts

    1,430
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by desmojen

  1. On the subject of topside colour-schemes, I'd say it's a single colour without variation based on the various photos, just as with the P-38. I take it you feel the same Jen, or have I misinterpreted you?

    The one thing I did notice is just how battered the lower rear fuselage looks on the port side between the codes and the leading edge of the tailplane! What the hell were they doing with the poor thing?

    Yes, that's about what I was thinking.

    I've re read one of Mikes previous posts and decided to completely change my mind :banghead: One of the options mentioned was 70/75. Now, looking at the rear 3/4 view, with the wavy spine Mike has mentioned already 75 overall with 70 spine looks very plausible indeed. I really should read things twice before I reply! :lol:

    I still think the underside is blue though. Look at the pic taken from the left side. In the profile you'll note that the artist has rendered the panel under the tailplane in blue, yet, in the photo it sticks out like a sore thumb! I think it more likely, given the hue of the known yellow control surfaces that the underside is blue grey and the panel yellow.

    Oh, and I really like the way we're having this debate without any trace of BS too! :clap2:

    Jen.

  2. You would have to say, the underside of the colour picture Spitfire doesn't look yellow though wouldn't you?

    I found and read the Hyperscale article and my first thought was the same as yours, that the underside looks different than the tail. Trouble is, you can see that the exhaust staining goes all the way back, which clouds things a bit and I'd have to conclude that you could go either way.

    What I do think though is that none of those three photos looks to me like 74/75, and there is little evidence of mottling, to my eye at least.

    Is it fair to say that 74/75 was standard Luftwaffe camo by 1943? If it is, where does the idea of standard Luftwaffe dark green come in? And as a parting thought, I think that it is known/assumed that the yellow underside was a standard tool on captured aircraft and that that is why the profiles etc assume that the Spitfire has the yellow undersides.

    If it were me, I'd paint it in 70/71/65 with yellow nose and tail because I think it would look cooler that way <shrugs>

    Damned if you do, damned if you don't springs to mind :suicide:

    Jen.

  3. Now I'm confused :huh:

    Just read that little excerpt at the top, it says the Spitfire was painted in Luftwaffe satandard dark green over pale blue with yellow tail control surfaces. After the engine transplant the cowls were painted yellow and then it flew back to the test airfiled.

    So where does the yellow underside come in? And how exactly does RLM 74/75 camo relate to 'standard Luftwaffe dark green' ?

    Jen.

  4. I'm a little bemused by all the tales of woe with Alclad as I've had no trouble with it at all (apart from fingerprints causing oxidisation of the finish on my K5054)

    If I need black gloss undercoat I use H21 and have had no drying issues at all. If I need to mask I've always done it within minutes of application, and removed straight after.

    I think some of the trouble some people may be having is caused by over application, be it primer or the Alclad itself. Any gloss paint is going to take a while to through dry, and Alclad being laquer based will serve to reactivate any finish which isn't thoroughly dry, especially if applied too heavily. The Alclad itself will then dry very fast (which it does) and serve to seal the solvents into the basecoat, preventing it from drying.

    So, my recipe for success, Humbrol H21 gloss black, thinned with cellulose thinners and applied in thin coats. If you can see orange peel in your finish the chances are you've put too much on. Left to dry thoroughly which doesn't actually take that long, overnight at worst. Apply your Alclad in light coats until you have the finish you desire, dry in ten, job done.

    Jen.

  5. Thats why you're poorly, not enough tea! :lol:

    If you've not chopped the kit about yet to accept said resin, there's nothing to stop you not using it in the kit. You'll be waiting a while for a replacement, so keep it for your next Spitfire project instead, you could even stick it in akit that needs a replacement cockpit, like an Airfix one! :P

    Jen

  6. The main man at Trumpeter was talking to Phillip Brook (Pocketbond man) in the car when I was there, telling him that the British subjects are the bestsellers, far outstripping expectations. Based on that alone you can expect the trend to continue.

    I personally saw the Jaguar masters (single and two seat) so I know for a fact that that one is on the way, and the multi scaling thing is something we've seen them do throughout anyway.

    Long may it continue I say :)

    Jen

  7. My take on things is that I usually look at the real thing, and try and copy it. Ergo, hard edges camo is just that! In reality though, it is rarely pin sharp on anything other than display aircraft.

    I do the same with weathering. I think about how the real thing gets dirty, where it starts and what goes on it. Then I replicate it as best I can. To my way of thinking, that's a good way of making a model look like a replica rather than a caricature.

    Jen.

  8. I use a product called Moto Xtreem to clean my motorbike. Whilst I can't vouch for it's airbrush cleaning abilities, it cleans the motorbike better than Muc Off does. In fact, it's the first cleaner I've used that actually removes chain lube!

    It's also a lot cheaper, 5 litres costs £17 and it's available from motorbike shops.

    They do a product which is similar to Bikespray as well for £16 per gallon.

    Jen.

  9. Might be worth contacting Alclad. Apparently there was a dodgy batch doing the rounds..... I've never had any problems with it but loads of people do, er, do.

    Try using post it notes for masking panels, they're less sticky but still leave a nice edge.

    Jen.

  10. I read an extensive, and mainly derogatory review on this kit. Helpfully, I can't remember where, but I do have a printout of it somewhere which I will look for.

    There was much talk of dimensional innacuracy etc. Now, I have the Falcon Seafang as well and I spent some time comparing the parts from the Silver Cloud kit with that. In my humble, there is very little difference between the two .

    The Silver Cloud kit certainly has some plus points too, but I wouldn't have said cheapness was one of them, you must have got lucky!

    Jen.

  11. Ten bananas eh, that is a lot! Thanks Bob :lol:

    Thanks for the tips guys. It is probably more dirty than it looks in the photos, it's subtle dirty!

    I used a nice photo I found on the internet which beautifully showed the underside off, to gauge how far to go with it.

    The first thing Rik (who's having the model) said when I showed him the underside was 'Oooh, nice and dirty, just how it should be!'

    I don't very often use pastels for weathering to be honest, I find them a bit hard to control. I prefer to use oil wash and sprayed effects generally. If you splodge the oil wash mix where you want it to be dirty and then rub it in with your fingers, it gives a nice effect without being too in your face. I also use it for streaking, by painting on with a fine signwriters brush. The Toom has both engine and hydraulic oil streaks on it, but they don't show up in the photo. Maybe I should take another! :rolleyes:

    Jen.

  12. Thanks everyone! Thanks very much :D

    A few of you are asking about the tail end. well, it is Aclad, seven different shades if I remember right, but that was just the start! :lol:

    I used a wash of black oil over the multi hued Aclad, leaving it fairly thick along the bottom immediately behind the jet nozzles. When that was wiped off it kind of looked like an armadillo!

    Once all that was dry, I used a highly thinned mix of Gunze flat black to add exhaust staining over the wash and the Alclad. I then rubbed that with my fingers which made some of it come back off, especially on the hook. Then I sprayed it again, this time with Gunze tyre black, and that's how I got it to look like that.

    Not much work at all :whistle:

    My sergeant at work has graciously offered the mighty Tooom a home so that saves me having to invest in yet more shelves just now!

    Thanks again all :thumbsup:

×
×
  • Create New...