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Bob C.

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About Bob C.

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    Collegeville, PA USA

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  1. Patrick, what a great finished project. I just found a couple of these double-boxings, and if I didn't have about 8 other projects started, I would surely be starting one of these kits. Did you do some sort of work in progress? I didn't see it on the first page of BM's WIP. You certainly deserve a nice bottle of champagne! So what is your preferred brand? Congrats, Bob C
  2. HR Models does (used to do?) the Hanriot (I and II?). Check Hannants. Also look for OOP Pegasus kits. Good luck, Bob C
  3. Opus, This has rally been a phenomenal tutorial from start to finish! The Frank turned out great, but the Tojo's NMF might be about the best I've seen on modelling web sites. I am reluctant to try the decanting of a spray can. I can imagine the mess i would make! So, does not Tamiya make a bottle equivalent? In exchange for your tutorial, let me offer a tip. I noticed the shallowness of the Tojo's wheel wells (the Frank looks good), a common Hasegawa issue. One solution is this, and yes, I know it's way too late for your current masterpiece. You'll need to obtain a copy of Eduard's PE set 72-255. If you cut straight down (inside) the sidewall of the wheel well (you might destroy the poor representation of the "roof" of the wheel well), but by gluing the PE piece to the "top" pf the wing, you are deepening the wheel well. On the other hand, the Eduard PE set has a rather complete wheel well that builds into a nicely boxed-in area -- assuming that there is room in the wing to set it up. It may only increase the depth by about a millimeter, but it does look much better than not doing that bit of deconstruction. .
  4. From andyrowe: Hey everyone. Thanks to you all for your input on my initial query on the length of the possible under scaled fuselage. But I think from the first half dozen or so replies, the topic has gone off kilter a bit with the other errors being discussed but not much about the fuselage length. There are other threads on this site that are discussing in some detail the other issues. Yes, but that's what we do (at least those who are capable!) I'm all for a better Mosquito, but I'm really anxious for that Arma Hobby P-51B! Bob C
  5. Werdna, Have you posted this question on Hyperscale? There's a gent named G R Morrison who is astoundingly learned in this area. He might respond to you. Good luck, Bob C
  6. Admiral, I may have responded to this project at some point along the way, but I didn't see my name. I realize that you are not now asking for a count, but I am interested. And I have 3 Catalinas! So, depending on price, of course ... Bob C
  7. Opus, I was just about to address that question, but you beat me to it. I guess most, if they are pursuing this and catch the discrepancy, will check the Mr. Color paint list and find that #112 is a Flesh, so doubt that there will be great confusion. Your further instruction on your technique is greatly appreciated. Bob C http://www.mech9.com/2010/01/mr-color-solvent-based-paint-color-chart.html Mr. Color Paint Chart. No idea if this is current or definitive.
  8. Hello Opus, All your trials and tribulations seem to be paying off quite well. I especially like the Frank's top coat. If I understood you correctly, your "olive brown" base coat was Mr. Color Olive Drab 112 (based on how you said you created the lightened undersurface color), and the "brownish" effects were from the dark earth and Russian radome green. Have I gotten that right, esp regards to the base olive drab? Everything is looking good. Waiting expectantly for the finish! Bob C
  9. I was exploring the Uschi van der Rosten site for their wood grain decals and came across something called Three Green Flexible Nose Weight, which seems to be a leaded putty. Has anyone used this product, and if so, what are your results and opinions? Here is a link https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/three-green-flexible-nose-weight/ . I have read that if using actual lead weights, superglued to plastic, excess heat can be created that causes expansion that can destroy the plastic, though that has never happened to me -- yet? Thanks for any input. Bob C
  10. Clive, Re your last post -- you said Aeroclub -- did you mean Roden? Ah-ha -- I see I do have a D VI by Aeroclub, as well. But I figure it probably is a lot harder to find than the Roden? Bob C
  11. Bob C.

    H-B W. 29 Questions

    Jun, You are brilliant!! I asked this question on other forums, with no results, and had given up -- that's why I hadn't checked back here all this time. I even found that I have this book, and am off to closely scrutinize the pages you quoted. Can't thank you enough! Best wishes, Bob C
  12. Colin, Thanks for the info -- great personal connection, makes things that much more interesting. I wish you greatest luck in nailing down all the missing details. Bob C
  13. Colin, A late war DO 17E in maritime colors sounds interesting. Could you give us the squadron, a more precise date, and reference? Going to post some WIP pics? Hope so. Bob C
  14. Bob C.

    H-B W. 29 Questions

    I am doing Christiansen's 2512, mainly from the MPM 1/72 kit. The Wingnut Wings instructions offer horizontal tailplane variations of the prototype and 3 others : Early production; Modified/early prod variation; and Later prod. Is there any certainty which 2512 had? Yes, theoretically, you should be able to tell from the serial #, but I think I read somewhere in references that some aircraft were updated with new horiz tailplanes (?) Second question, I think I know, but just to be certain: Windsock Datafile #55 describes the forward under-fuselage aperture as an "Inspection door", the Wingnut Wings parts diagram has this as a clear piece. It is a clear window, as opposed to a metal covering over the opening, yes? Thanks for any help, Bob C
  15. Jerzy, Really impressive collection. So is that the famous 56 FG plum? How did you do that? It looks subtle, but with a nice color to it. Also, was there a particular reason you went with the Tamiya D to get the P-47M, rather than the Revell P-47M? I've got a few of both to work on. Best wishes, Bob C
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