TurboGuru

Hi I used Vajello Satin Varnish over Humbrol Black Gloss paint and it did a very good job. I also used Humbrol Gloss Varnish over Humbrol Gloss Paint.....and erm..... lets just say since that day I've never touched a Humbrol paint/varnish since

YES I couldn't believe this. I tested it on a spare body after applying gloss white - the varnish ate the paint! .... How can humbrol gloss varnish erode its own paint, hillarious. The gloss white had cured for 2 weeks. Anyway, I've had enough with aircans, and I am saving up for an airbrush... I need greater control over the pressure. I will say that their gloss paints are pretty good actually, but I really wudn't bother with their varnish.

Hi I'm about to introduce some lights (LEDs) into my models too. I did Electronics when I was at school - I am by no means a guru but I think I can help you out. Firstly make sure you don't use LEDs and bulbs interchangeably.... bulbs will be fine without resistors (usually when using a battery).... but obviously you'll want to use LEDs because they come in colours and have smaller form factors. Ok, so for LEDs you ideally need to limit the current because it will burn out if you connect it directly to a battery source. If you can spare killing one LED you could try connecting it directly to a 9v battery and see what happens .....pop. A resistor will limit the flow of current running through the LED, meaning it won't burn out. To determine the value for resistance you will want to use ohms law: V = Voltage I = Current R = Resistance Its pretty easy to use. To work out resistance we need to divide the voltage by the current used.... what voltage are you intending to use? Once you know the voltage, the next step to is to work out what current you need. For typical LEDs its around 20mA (millamps = 0.02A). If we presume that your voltage from the battery is 9v then we calculate your resistor value by: 9/0.02 = 450ohms .... which seems about right. You can even go 100 ohms lower (350) and it would still probably be ok, consider it as approx. If all this seems way too complex then I suggest buying a beginners book on basic electronics, it will help you out a lot. Below is an example of a parallel circuit using resistors.

Thanks, I think I checked that before but they are out of stock.

Hi All I've got bottles of Micro-Sol and Micro-Set in my toolbox, all thats missing is Solvaset. I did a quick search in google/ebay.... and it seems to be pretty rare to find? Any suggestions? Thanks

Hi Fantastic work on both booths, they seem perfect! I cheated and bought one off ebay and then fitted a light, works great!...... but I wish I could fit spotlights to it like yours. You could make a few of these and sell them, I'm sure people would buy them

Thanks for the responses. What exactly is micro-filler? ... isnt primer supposed to provide a smooth layer on top of the body for the paint? (eg. filling minor imperfections - hence no need for a micro filler?)

Ok well I guess its normal then.... will probably see when my airbrush arrives.

Hi All I'm saving up for an airbrush kit, should hopefully have one by the end of the month. Currently I have been using spray cans for applying primer/paint. I thought I would browse youtube and watch some airbrushing techniques. I found this one video where the modeler is applying thinned primer to the car... he sprays the model for ages, its looks like overkill? Is this normal? - I'm mean I know the extractor is taking some of the primer away from the airbrush but it seems as though the model is being heavily soaked in primer lol... or maybe the body doesn't look as 'white' as it does on the video during the priming? Hence it looks like overspray.

Thanks for the replies. I might just go and grab some Maskol and follow your advice.

Hi all I recently purchased some Liquid masking solution by Vajello, it worked great but the masking solution just does not come off the brush at all, I have to end up being brutal with the brush and it ends up being completely destroyed...all fibers ruined. So I read up about Mr Masking Sol Neo - its water soluable I think, I thought it might be kinder to my brushes than Vajello, but nope, same thing, stays on the brush. I don't leave my brush to dry either, I place it in water soon as im done with the area that I am masking. How do you guys deal with it? Driving me nuts! lol - The Mr Masking Sol Neo does contain a brush as part of its lid, but its a bit too big to use for some areas.

Hi I've had an air conditioner unit in my room for the past year or so, was great during the summer but obviously it isn't used much now. The air con unit also had a duct pipe which fed outside the window (nicely sealed to). I simply connected the duct from this air brush station to the duct used for my air con. I can only comment on my own experience, but with my setup all fumes and paint mist is taken care of, the fumes are gone and there is no smell after a couple of minutes, for me its done everything I wanted at a good price. On the first day I tried priming/painting without the duct and your right, it just spread the fumes out the back and around the whole room, no good! - attached a duct and all is good now. Thanks. I'm getting back into this, and its great to have a UK based forum - especially when you need things which are not available in the uk *cough* tamiya spray paints *cough*

Hi I bought one of these last week from ebay, they are fantastic for the money. I decided to modify mine though, I attached a small light and installed some ducting for the rear fan. The fan is located on the rear and looks like the back of a PC fan... clearly you'll want to use some kind of ducting as I did because otherwise the fumes end up circulating round the room (once they leave the fan). I would certainly recommend these, especially since you can join two or more for a larger work area....for the money they are great!