Blacktjet

In 1/48 scale, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference, just need to make sure there's the correct gap between the stores.

I was aware that the RAF used a different carrier but I think its just the part that couples the store to the rack, the main bulk of the rack looks the same as the BRU-42. I'm fitting 3 BL755s to the rack so the parts in question will be hidden anyway

Thanks, wasn't sure if the SUU pod had a dedicated pylon, plus, there's an extra centreline pylon in the Hasegawa/Revell kit.

Try YouTube, I'm sure there's at least one sequence of an FRS.1 firing rockets. A BAe publicity brochure shows weapons carriage and location for the FRS.1 as 1x rocket pod on each outer pylon or 2x pods on twin carriers on each inner pylon.

Anyone know which pylon was used to attach a TER to the centerline station on strike FGR.2s - was it the pylon for the SUU gun pod? I've seen the publicity shot of XV499 with BL755s on the centre station but the pylon is hidden.

Thanks, I thought they did but that sheet didn't come up on my search! I was really looking for the later markings with the fin flash.

Did Hannants produce a Phantom sheet with 6 squadron markings? I know there is a 6 squadron history sheet but I wouldn't use the other options on the rest of the sheet.

If you can't find any pictures on google that show the matt area, pm me your email address, I have two good pictures that show it well.

Very nice, I've got a 1/100 scale 3D printed version to build. How long did the Draw decals take to come through- assuming you are in the UK. Is ti your lighting or have you painted it desert pink? Something you could probably add without too much effort, there's a matt patch around the cockpit area and on the nose in front of the windscreens

Did you not spot the huge gaps between most of the parts! I did fill the joints between all the fuselage sections - five in all but the plan was to keep the wings seperate to ease masking and painting, these being then screwed to the fuselage after the decals and lacquer had been applied. I've lost the drive to finish my (plastic) models lately so this seemed like an easy step back into the more complex masking and painting. That said, they look good and have inspired me to replicate them in 1/48 scale plastic - they of cause won't get finished!

If you still can't see them, they are the Martin Baker T.7.5s, the black WA638 and the silver WL419

I've got a bit bogged down with a few long term builds so tried something that had a different challenge. Converted from 2 Corgi die-cast Meteor F.8s. Canopies were converted from the Xtrakit T.7, moulded then recast in clear resin. The fuselage strengthening strips are not accurate as I couldn't get hold of some more appropriately shaped strips due to lockdown! Decals are homemade on a Laser printer. WL419 is just waiting for a spare or resin F-35 seat to go in the back cockpit.. Paints are Hycote automotive spray paints, decanted and sprayed through an Aztek airbrush then Hycote lacquer sprayed direct from the can.

Ah, they scanned XM594 at Newark - now I see why they moulded the wipers across the screens and missed off the centre wiper - it's missing from the actual a/c! I did get a reply about this from Airfix - the comments had been passed to the design team.

I use the Anycubic grey resin. My exposure times are high and I'm probably prematurely burning out my screen - I'm on my second since May, I work on the basis that a screen cost £35, calculate the cost of the failed resin (and screen life and general wear on the printer) and you are probably not far off the cost of your screen - if you are doing large prints. I've just made 2 x 1/100 scale Boeing 737s that would have cost me at least £50 each to buy, not as accurate and with less detail, and a 1/72 Atlas/Gemini rocket - god knows how much a kit of that would have cost so I'm happy to spread the cost of the screen over those models alone. The setting I listed are what I use for the large prints, the 737 wings are 160mm, for smaller items I reduce the exposure times down to 65 secs on the bottom layers and 12 secs on the layers but I haven't always had a 100% success rate at those settings.

Thanks, I've changed the FEP before but only used Anycubic brand. There's such a big difference in price, I was just wondering what the cheap brands quality was like.

Just to jump in here with a suggestion ( there are far more knowledgeable people on here with technical advice). When I started printing with my Photon S, I was getting failed prints regularly. It now seems that I have found the sweet spot as I have zero failures. First of all, I stopped printing below 0.050, the difference is not that noticeable and the more layers you have, the more chances there will be for something to go wrong. Secondly, when ever possible, print directly on the build plate and just add supports where necessary. These are my settings:- Layer height 0.05 mm bottom layer count is 3 - 6 bottom exposure time is 95 s layer exposure time is 18 s Light-off delay 6.5 s Bottom light-off delay 3 s Everything else is the same as you. Hope this helps.

Time to buy some new FEP, there's a huge difference in price between thus brand and Anycubic branded film. Has anyone tried the cheaper brands?

What's the warranty time on the screen for the Mono X?

Sorted - thanks to Jon Bryon

BOZ 107 chaff dispenser. First used on Tornado, later on Canberra and Nimrod

Thanks for that, very interesting 👍

Thanks, I increased the bottom layer exposure time because my prints were sometimes sticking to the FEP rather than the plate. Didn't think about burning out my LCD, might explain why mine failed after four months!

When printing parts directly on the printing bed, I'm getting a fine lip or flange at the base of the print. Is there anything I can adjust in the print setup to eliminate this?

Several 41 sqn a/c had the German rescue markings, non of which were ex- RAFG examples, hence the query if these were temporary just for the squadron exchange in 76.

Just decalling the above model using Xtradecal 48-201 ( sqn fighter bars far too large!). I found a picture of the actual aircraft, complete with owl zap, the aircraft has the additional German rescue stencils found on RAFG Phantoms. I don't want to use the owl zap, does anyone know if the extra stencils were applied just for the squadron exchange? Also, a link to a picture would be helpful of 414 with the large 'N' on the fin but no zap. Thanks