beeza1

Thanks for the kind words. I have made turnbuckles, as an experiment, to suit 1:48 scale by using the same method. I used 0.4mm brass tube drilled out to 0.3mm, the rigging wire I used was 0.1mm smoke invisible thread (mono), just a matter of making everything just that little bit smaller. The main body of the turnbuckle for 1:32 scale is 3.2mm long, for 1:48 scale it would be 2.1mm, still a workable size. The little eyelets, which I normally twist around a 0.3mm drill bit would now be twisted around a 0.2mm drill bit. It all depends on how patient you are and how much time you want to spend on the model, but it certainly adds a lot of realism to the finished product. Des. I don't know how it can be called invisible thread when it is smoke colour???? 0.1mm thread equates to 4.8mm real size in 1:48 scale. 0.15mm is 4.8mm real size in 1:32 scale

A lovely looking model, very well built and an excellent finish - well done. Des.

That is one of the nicest looking 109's I've seen for a long time - very well done Des.

Thanks everyone for your wonderful comments, much appreciated. To attach the eyelets to the wing I first drill a 0.4mm hole about half to three parts way into the wing. Test fit each eyelet into the hole to make sure the length of the shaft is not longer then the hole, snip off the end if it does not go all the way down. I hold the eyelet by the eye with a pair of needle nose tweezers, with a piece of fine wire I put a drop of CA on the shaft of the eyelet then push it into the hole making sure it goes all the way down so the eye is touching the wing. The only thing to be cautious of is that the eyelet is facing the correct way. They end up being very strong and depending on the wire you use will take a fair amount of weight without deforming the eye. The eyelets I used here were twisted around a 0.3mm drill bit. The brackets on the wing where the strut locates and also the eyelets are coloured using black printer ink, it doesn't build up like paint so the eyelets retain their original size. Hope this helps you out. Des.

Beautiful work Bob - can't wait to see the next update Des.

Here are a few pics showing the double flying wires, the inboard wires are attached to the fuselage so are not very visible in the photo. Des.

I completed the rigging last night, took about 8 hours to hook up all those lines to the bottom wing. Not real visible in the photos but I added all the double flying wires. Using the little brass sleeves to hold the wires after they are looped through the eyelets is time consuming but adds to the overall appearance of the aircraft. Because of the very close tolerances that Wingnuts has engineered into their kits, fitment of the top wing was a little frustrating, I had to end up drilling out the holes a little so the strut locating pins fitted easily. Next job is to complete the underside of the bottom wing and add the aileron wires, and replace the aileron I broke off. The engine cowls will be left off to display the engine, it would be a shame to hide all that work. Des.

Hi Phil. I hope you do build your kit and I am so pleased I have given you the inspiration. The rigging on the underside of the top wing doesn't have to be put on in any particular order, but when fitting them to the bottom wing it is a different matter. I do the cabane rigging first making sure the top wing is in the correct position in relation the the bottom wing and fuselage. After that I will do the incident or stagger wires on all sets of struts, then I start in earnest doing the remainder of the rigging. I will do the double wires first because they will be the most fiddly, and lastly the drag wires. I am in the process at the moment of making more little brass sleeves for the rigging and hopefully will start the bottom wing rigging this weekend. Cheers Des.

Thanks guys for your comments. Gary. With the limited capabilities of my camera these are about as good as I can get as far as close up, hope they give you a bit more detail. Please excuse the dust particles on the tail surface and fuselage, I forgot to give it a dust before taking the photo. Des.

Another up-date on my Bristol. The under surface of the top wing has been pre-shaded and clear coated. The plastic container is holding all the eyelets and brass tubes ready for the rigging. This photo shows the wing with all the rigging lines attached using the little brass tubes and CA. These photos show the top wing now attached and all the rigging lines hanging loose ready for fixing to the bottom wing. The missing aileron is my fault, I accidently bumped it and broke it off. The ailerons are attached with only three tiny "hinges"which makes them very weak, I should have drilled and pinned. Now comes the tedious task of joining up all those rigging lines. Des.

That is different but it looks fantastic - you have done a tremendous job - very well done and a brilliant concept. Des.

Very nice indeed - I like your subtle weathering - very well done. Des.

Very nice Bruce - I see nothing wrong with the weathering - well done. Des.

Very impressive line up of models all of them beautifully built and finished - very well done. Des. PS. love your new shed. Current projects. WNW 1:32 Bristol F.2b Roden 1:32 SS D.III

A very nice collection you have Mike, all well built and well finished - the Mossie didn't show up but the Wessex and the B-24 stand out for me. Very well done. Des. Current projects. WNW 1:32 Bristol F.2b Roden 1:32 SS D.III

This may be of interest to those who are unsure of the terminology for all those wires on WW1 aircraft. Des.

Looking nice Bob, I will be watching this build intently, keep up the good work. Cheers Des.

Thanks everyone for your wonderful comments, certainly makes it all worthwhile. Progress has been a bit slow this past week but here are some photos of what I did manage to get done. The wheels are finished and fitted. The tyres are done with lead pencil dust applied using a small stiff brush, sprayed with gloss clear, decals applied then sprayed with matt clear. The struts are also finished, decals applied, gloss coated and the simulated reinforcing tape fitted. I used Tamiya tape cut to a width of 0.75mm then wrapped around each end of each strut, I coated the tape with matt clear. The top wing is ready for painting but due to very bad planning on my part I have run out of paint, hopefully I will get to town this week to buy some. Cheers Des.

Three beautiful looking models all well built and very well finished. I love the Aldon, that is a nice looking aeroplane. Des.

Very nice collection - looks like you were busy for most of the year - well done. Des.

How those things ever flew with such tiny wings is beyond me, it's little wonder they had so many landing accidents, anyhow, you have done a good job with the build and the overall finish is very well done, thank you for showing us. Des.

very nice looking model and well finished - a great job Des.

That is one well worn Zero - very well done - you certainly have captured the wear and tear these aircraft encountered. Des.

A few more photos showing my progress so far. The tail end rigging is now complete apart from the painting of the turnbuckles and all the little brass ends. The double cables made work a lot harder and time consuming but I think it was well worth it. I have also glued all the little eyelets into the lower wing ready for the wing rigging. I didn't notice until after I took the photos but please excuse the dust on the tail surfaces. Cheers Des.

Nice work Bob - I am looking forward to seeing progress pics. Merry Christmas to you and your family, may it be a very happy and safe time. Cheers Des.