beeza1

Here are those little turnbuckles used for the bracing of the fuselage frames, I used 0.1mm smoke coloured invisible (monofilament) thread for the wires, they are looped through the turnbuckle eyelet then threaded back through a 0.4mm brass sleeve. The little brass sleeve has been drilled out to 0.3mm and cut to a length of 0.5mm, it is all secured with a small drop of CA. The remainer of the turnbuckles will be used on the control cables inside the cockpit. Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

I needed to add a grille to the radiator so using materials on hand I made one from brass tube, 0.5mm for the smaller size and 0.8mm for the two larger ones, they are all held together with CA. For the radiator mesh I "borrowed" my wife's tea strainer and attacked it with my scalpel, CA holds it well to the plastic. A coat of black then highlighted with aluminium gave me the affect I was after. The mesh is a little too coarse but I like to use what materials I have lying around. Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

The fuselage frames had bracing wires with turnbuckles as did the control cables, so I made some small turnbuckles to do the job, these turnbuckles are a lot smaller than those I made for my Bristol so it took some time just to do 14 of them. As you can see in the photo, the turnbuckles are very small. Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

The 1:32 scale Roden Spad VII c.1 is a pretty good kit, not for the beginner but the average modeller should have little difficulty constructing this model. This kit has been around for quite a while now but this time I will be depicting the Lafayette Escadrille by using Pheon Models decals. The decals are superb with excellent graphics and colours, a great little booklet with a brief history and explanation of each scheme, there are plenty of options to choose from, and beautifully printed full colour sheets with decal application directions. Many thanks must go to Rowan Broadbent for supplying the decals and Richard Andrews from theaviattic.com for organising the Roden kit for me. Here are the options available on the Pheon Models decal sheet. I started the build by firstly opening up all the vents around the engine compartment. I drilled three holes in each vent then cleaned them up with a very sharp scalpel. The plastic Roden has used is quite soft so the job was pretty easy, but there are a lot of vents. I also filled in all the indentations Roden had on the rocker cover blisters and drilled them, with the plastic being so soft it was hard to stop the drill bit from wandering so straight lines were difficult to maintain. Des. A build log can be found on my website. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

I have finally finished the SE.5a, my 5th completed Wingnut kit. It was a pleasure building this kit, I encountered no major problems throughout the entire build, Wingnuts have to be congratulated for producing such a wonderful kit. The addition of the Brian Fawcett fin and rudder set plus the use of Pheon Models decals certainly add to the overall appearance of the model. I hope the following photos do justice for this great aeroplane. Des.

Another progress up-date on the 5a. Most of the painting had now been completed, the decals are fitted and the entire model has been clear coated using Humbrol Matt Cote (absolutely brilliant stuff). I have used Pheon Models decals for this build, the decals are very thin, easy to manage, adhere well and conform to odd shapes quite readily, thanks Rowan. The scheme I chose is; F5910 41 Sqn, Conteville, France. August 1918. Capt. W. G. Claxton The replacement fin and rudder by Brian Fawcett certainly improves the overall appearance of the model, the lack of detail on these two parts by Wingnuts has been overcome by the use of Brians resin pieces. He has provided very crisp detail and thin section parts, thanks Brian. The 2nd and 3rd photo shows the engine and radiator fitted, the brass on the radiator enhances the brass and copper on the engine. Brass and copper are very hard to emulate in paint so I prefer to add the real thing where possible. I still need to add fuel lines, throttle linkages and electrical wiring from the firewall to the engine. Des. A full build log can be found on my site as well how I detailed the engine. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Thank you Jase for your kind comments. It is always good for modellers to know where to obtain materials, I only mentioned jbmodel.eu because at the time it was the only place I could get the product. For Australian modellers I have found a supplier here; http://www.bnamodelworld.com Visit my website for complete build logs plus hints and tips. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com Des.

Beautiful work Larsa, I'm looking forward to seeing more progress photos. I always admire the work you do, brilliant stuff. Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Here are three photos of the engine with the spark plugs fitted, the ignition lead tubes and all the ignition leads running from the plugs to the magneto's. The centre manifold assembly is also fitted, I made a butterfly valve and fitted it in the carby intake. I just need to complete the plumbing on the bottom of the engine. Des. For a full build log of this engine please go to my website. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Here are some photos of a trial fit of the unfinished engine into the fuselage, I still need to do the spark plugs and leads. Once the instrument panel is finished I will be able to close the fuselage completely. I will be displaying this model with the engine cowls off. Des. Visit My Website for a full build log of this kit and how I detailed the engine

By all means, I will help where ever I can, it will be a pleasure. Des. www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Hi T-Tango I built the Roden SE.5a some time ago and was very impressed with the kit, the engine detail is as good as the Wingnut kit, both engines lend themselves to super detailing. I'm a little disappointed with the lack of detail on the fin and rudder of the Wingnut SE.5a, I will be adding the Pheon up-date set. The instrument panel on this kit is very good and in my opinion does not need the Eduard PE set, but that is just my preference. On my web site I have started the complete build of the Hispano Suiza engine, I am adding a lot of detail so it will be all covered on my site. I'm sure your build will be as good or even better than mine, I am no expert, just an average modeller who thoroughly enjoys the hobby, I do it because I love WW1 aircraft. Looking forward to seeing some photos of your build soon Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Hi T-Tango. I have been working on the SE.5a for about a month on and off. I've been held up waiting for a new punch set to arrive from the States, that's why the instruments dials are not on yet, and that is stopping me advancing any further on the fuselage, one thing holds up the whole show....... In the mean time, I've been working on the engine, I am replacing all the plastic plumbing and fitting copper wire, looks more the part I think, I am also fitting hose clamps to all the connections. I have also made four priming taps to sit on top of the manifold. Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Adding to the ever growing list of SE.5a builds I have decided to submit my build. The SE.5a is the 5th Wingnuts kit for me, I have completed the Junkers, Sopwith Pup, Bristol and the LVG, all beautiful kits. These photos show what I have done so far. I added fuselage frame bracing wires using 0.1mm smoke coloured mono with 0.3mm brass ends drilled out to 0.2mm to make threading the mono a little easier. The control cables are 0.12mm mono with added turnbuckles. Wingnuts did not supply the starting magneto so I made one along with the starting magneto winding handle. I hollowed out the pistol box just to give it a bit of depth. All the timber is done using Gunze paints as a base and oil paints over top for the wood grain, it's all finished with Humbrol Satin Cote clear. Because of the lack of detail on the fin and rudder I will be replacing them with the Pheon resin update set, this will greatly enhance the look of the model. The last photo shows the magneto winding hadle I made using 0.5mm, 0.4mm and 0.3mm brass tube. A full build log of this model can be found on my web site, it is a build in progress so more will be added as the build advances. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com Des

You will be very happy building this kit, it goes together so easy and builds up to be a very nice model. I finished mine a few weeks ago, if you would like to see my build log please go to my web site. Des. http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Hi T-Tango. If you like, you could go to my web site, it shows a good selection of 1:32 scale WW1 aircraft kits, which ones are easy to build and the not so easy, there are build logs and hints and tips, you might find some of the information useful. The site is still under construction so there will be more stuff added as time goes by. Des. Visit My Website http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

I have built four of Wingnuts models and on all four I used Mr. Mark Softer on the surface before applying the decals. I have had no adverse reactions from this product towards Wingnut decals. I always place the decals in very warm water for approx 10 seconds then apply to a very glossy surface with Mr. Mark Softer already applied. When I built the Roden SSW. DIII I polished the bare plastic wings with micro mesh until I had a mirror finish, then applied Mr. Mark Softer then applied the Lozenge decals, they stuck like glue and don't look like coming off. I did the usual two coats of clear after the decal were dry. Roden has a reputation of supplying very poor quality decals so with this in mind I placed their decals in very hot water for at least 30 seconds or until they started to lift off the backing paper, again I used Mr. Mark Softer and all the decals settled down well and conformed to all the different angles and shapes, Des. Visit My Website

Here are some photos of my completed WNW Sopwith Pup RFC. It was an absolute joy building this kit and WNW deserve to be complimented for producing such a beautiful kit. With it's ease of assembly this kit would be a great contender for anyone wishing to take the leap into WW1 aircraft and who possess little bi-plane experience. For the experienced modeller there is enormous scope for adding super detail and finish. I built this model virtually OOB just adding a little extra detail to the cockpit area. Des. Visit My Website for full build log

but apart from all that ------ did you have fun building the model---- :shithappens:

Very nice build Fred, sure brings back a lot of memories. Des.

Very nicely done - I love the scheme, quite impressive Great job on the ladder and the crew members add a nice touch - well done. Des.

That is a nice looking model, the weathering is spot on - very well done Des.

Nice looking 5a, the finish looks very good. Can I ask you, what did you use for the rigging? Des.

I like it, I like it a lot - very well done and really good weathering, the chipped paint looks great. Des.

A magnificent, masterful and fautless excercise in model engineering - you have surpassed every criteria of model building. Absolutely brilliant sir, my hat goes off to you. Des. www.ww1aircraftmodels.com