Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

John Aero

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    2,785
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by John Aero

  1. Can I suggest my way of doing rib tapes. I find it much easier and faster. I use Windsor and Newton acrylic artists White ink applied with a draftsman's bow type ruling pen. Here is an example on my first build of a resin kit of a 1/48th Klemm L.25 which I am converting to a British Klemm Swallow 1. (for Stackton) I filled all the scribed kit tapes and applied my own. The wing aft of the rear spar was fabric covered and the wing forwards was ply covered. I first give the wing a coat of 'rattle can' acrylic Primer filler or White or Grey primer car paint before doing the ribs. When I've done the rib tapes and they are dry I waft another fine coat of primer over the top so that it covers, but does not affect the tapes. When this has dried you can put other finish coats on. The rib tapes in the pictures were one application only. In other words just one stroke of the pen for each tape. You can see my favorite pen in the top photo. The ink is thick enough to stand out and if you get it wrong you just wipe it off with a damp cloth before it dries. It dries quite quickly. I use a number of guides made out of plastic or thin alloy sheet and even the steel rule in the picture. All my guides are backed with a strip of 1 mm thick tourniquet rubber, recessed from the edges so the ink doesn't creep under the guide.. I discovered this lovely stuff when the nurses were punching needles into me over the last two years and I was given my first piece as a souvenir and I have subsequently bought a roll from a medical suppliers. It's 1 mm thick and 20 mm wide and several metres long. I no longer clamp lamination's or fuselage halves, I just glue and wrap a strip of lightly stretched Blue rubber evenly round it. The wheels, seats, and engines are my castings, as at this stage I can't make up my mind if it's going to have a Pobjoy or Salmson engine. I did the rib tapes on my Hawker Hart masters this way. John
  2. They don't come much better than that model. I've flown in a good few Rapides over the years. Beautiful.
  3. Brings back memories of Hucknall Air shows as I've flown in both a Derby Airways Dakota G- ANTD (Dovedale) and a Marathon (Millersdale I think). The Civil thread gets so little use until some interesting pieces like this come along. There was a Contrail Marathon kit. and a horrid 144 vac from a company in Lancashire IIRC. John
  4. Great to see. I presume the Moths are AZ. Where did the Motorcycle combo come from? I want one and the bicycle too. There is a massive scope in small civil aircraft. I'm now going to try and find time to finish my 1/48th BA Swallows, Comper Swifts, Avro Avian s and Puss moths, not to mention all the Percivals and Miles types and a hundred other eclectic types. John
  5. Don't worry, Clare can provide the Sherry, it's occasionally part of the Sunday cooking ritual, but it doesn't seem to appear in the food. I'm only just catching up on the dear ladies as I never saw the the TV series being as I was often away with No 1(F) Squadron. However the name came from out of the blue and seemed appropriate for the project. Doing a little research, I find the Dame Hilda Bracket drove an open Rolls tourer and coincidentally there is a Rolls Royce Doctors Coupe in the car park, (which I've converted from a Matchbox Yesteryear, Rolls Fire Engine.). The 'Copper' at the gate was originally the RAF ground crew from the Tamiya Lancaster, indicating "Start Number two". John
  6. Stackton Tressel was very well received at Telford and an incredible number of people took photos of it. families particularly found things to interest them (such as the rabbits near the hedges). At one point we had close on 20 aircraft "fly in" and park up for a while, including a few anachronisms such as a beautifully made Morane Rally, a Howard Ike and a DH.4R. Thanks to Kiwi Chappers, and Lazy 8. Both of this parish (forum). Much support was given by Alan Simpson of Glasgow and Gordon Short of darkest Perth shire who besides minding the shop at times also provided a good number of suitable subjects for the fly in. Everything made it back safely with the exception of the Rapide which had a crash landing and will be permanently in the hangar for some time. John The subtleties of the grass are much better in real life than on photos and the Gipsy engine recording on my laptop just vanished in the general hubbub of the packed halls. The steam roller is for the mole hills. All the panels Hinge in the middle and underneath they have special Brackets which clip onto a tubular Tressel.
  7. Since my former reply I've taken a look at a number of Cerrux Grey photos and also messaged a contact at the RAF Museum. Unfortunately he can't throw any light on the subject, but I now think that the colour of the panels on the Gauntlet could well be an anodised finish and it's not dissimilar to that found on the early pictures of the rear fuselage of the prototype Spitfire before it was painted. John
  8. At last Photobucket let me in. John
  9. I seem to be bracketed by knowledgeable people, perhaps I have become un-hinged. Photobucket is playing up at the moment so I can't post pictures. It's a follow up from this-
  10. My long term 1/48 scale Flying club and aerodrome diorama is finished and it will be on show at Telford. It is hoped that it will form the basis of a new SIG devoted to Vintage Light Aircraft (in 1/48), I started it during my convalescence as an exhibition base for my own models and those of like minded friends. For the inaugural 'Fly in' I already have acceptances from as far apart as Glasgow, Perth shire and Yorkshire. It will be adjacent to the demonstration and Bomber Command SIG area. John
  11. Moa has been bombarding staple manufacturers to adjust their staple dimensions to come in line with 1919 Handley Page specifications.. He has been successful but unfortunately they are now 22" wide. Sorry Moa, John
  12. The Californians have their faults too. Like the San Andrea's (Fault). But at least they got the Valley of the Moon cheap. Better let a Californian explain this one! John
  13. The J/1A had a single forwards facing seat which would accommodate two people and was intended for joyriding. I have a notion that the rear cabin top was more bulged. They had a poor performance and most reverted to three people only. Most of the J/1's were three seat and the third seat was across the cabin as in the Auster IV. The J/5 Autocar was a proper four seat aircraft and this is why the rear cabin and fuselage were raised. John
  14. Moa I suggest that your M.1C be grounded, pending inquiries into faulty build equipment. re- the time expired rubber band. (on the clamp) John
  15. Absolutely superb. I grew up with the sounds of 504 Sqn and actually touching the 'secret' new night fighters at RAF Newton open day in 1954. John
  16. Wonderful work and research as usual, Moa. You make the modelling equivalent of a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela look like a walk in the park. John
  17. Roger in post #4 is quite correct, K2573 is an early first production batch DH 82 Tiger Moth. (K2567 -K2601). I believe the colour scheme was chosen from the Warpaint 101 where the Richard Caruana drawing is titled as a DH 82A. I assume that this error has come from a photograph in McKay's Tiger Moth book which because of the glare on the silver fuselage it's not possible to see the stringer detail, so it looks like a ply decking as fitted to the 82A. For those not familiar with the Tiger, the first production batch known as Tiger Moth 1's had the Gipsy III engine and had stringer and fabric covered top decks. When the Gipsy Major was fitted along with a ply wood top decking these became Tiger Moth II's or DH 82A's. However there is some confusion over the identity of the second production batch of 50 Tiger Moths,(K4241 -K4291) as A.J.Jackson and the Warpaint call them DH 82 A's, but the Air Britain K serials calls them DH82's. There do not seem to be many photos of this second batch but a photo in the McKay book clearly shows a Silver painted K4288 with a Ply top decking (but no anti spin strakes) making it a DH 82A. John
  18. I think that the dark panels on the Gauntlets may well have been Cerrux grey, as delivered from Glosters,with the rest in Aluminium dope. The fad for polished metal and it's time consuming upkeep was fading as the political priorities were changing. Some Gauntlets and then Gladiators would be be delivered with the metal panels in a Silver finish which was in all probability an anti corrosion Cerrux type finish. Again with the rest of the fabric parts in Aluminium dope. As an aside, the Devon's of Transport Command Headquarters Flight at RAF Upavon in my early Gliding years were burnished bright natural metal. Very soon it was discovered that this over enthusiastic polishing was seriously reducing the panel thickness and especially the flush rivet heads and the practice was stopped. John
  19. As others have said the Auster family are not just a minefield but insanity it'self. The are one of the most complicated aeroplane families to unravel. The J/5 Aiglet had a 36' span wing but the Aiglet Trainer had a 32' wing. Most of the J/5 family had the larger fin and rudder and internal wing flaps the Mk.6 variants had a 36' span wing but with a different construction and external flaps. They had the small original fin and rudder. The fuselages started with the Taylorcraft basic frame and the Plus series of pre-war Austers used this frame with a slightly raised cabin roof. This was used by the Auster Mk's 1-3. (Gipsy Major), The Auster IV (4) and V (5) with the Lycoming engine used a new construction with some having flat windscreens and some with curved screens and which basic frame was the basis for many of the future models such as the J/1 series except the J/2 Arrow (Continental) and J/4 Archer (Cirrus) two seaters which had a version of the Auster V fuselage although oddly the first aircraft was originally registered as a Plus C which does have a different fuselage frame.. All good fun John
  20. It's a long time since I spent any time on Spitfires and I'm a bit too busy at this time to do so now. However as I understand it, the wing of the Mk.18 (I prefer to use Arabic rather than Roman numerals for clarity), is identical in shape plan wise to the Mk.14 with internal and surface detail changes. Somewhere I have a very faded factory drawing of the Mk.18 which I obtained from the late Mike Eacock. I suggested the use of the Academy wing on my conversion as it was one of the few things one could rescue from an awful kit. The drawings by the brilliant Peter Cooke however do have some inaccuracies such as those of the fin and rudder. They contain the same error that has bedeviled most drawings of the Mk. 18 in that a "big" rudder has been drawn onto a standard Mk.14 fin. Peter's drawings have been widely copied and I think that the Fred Spring drawings are copies as they contain the same empenage errors. Springs drawings of the DH Hornet again show all the Huntley drawing errors. I first became aware of the filler block on top of the fin in the early 1970's when I noticed a slight movement when I was inspecting the tail end on the Mk.21 which has the same back end as the Mk.14C, which we retained on No.1 Sqn at Wittering. I didn't particularly think anything of it at the time, but some years later when I was able to measure the FR.14E at Manchester did the penny drop, that by the removal of the filler piece enabled the fitting of the broad chord rudder to certain Griffon Mk's. The dimensions are shown on my photo with a diagram overlay to be found somewhere in this thread.. John
  21. John Aero

    Mystery Uniform

    The person to his left is wearing an RFC 'Maternity' Jacket. so possibly a"flying visit". A very regular occurrence. John
  22. John Aero

    I hate photo etch

    The tool I described in post 16 is exactly as simple as that, a flat length of aluminium strip or brass. I've even used a piece of wood, but of at least three to four mm thick. It's just got to stand very hot water for about 20 seconds. I last used the technique about 5 years ago and I still have a box of Nylon rods somewhere. If I can find time I will find it and photograph it. but it may have gone to landfill like much of the old workshop. John
  23. Lovely work Patrik. A number of British Naval biplane aircraft (Fairey III.F for instance) have struts which are perpendicular to the wing spars. The simple reason for this is that the flying and landing wires can be of the same length in each wing cellule making for less spares needed to be carried on board ship. The wing structures can be basically the same with the lower wing fittings being wider than the top centre section, but in the case of the Fairey III.F the lower wings are slightly longer than the top wings due to the wing spar root fittings. On aircraft were the struts are vertical in front view and so at an angle to the wing spars, the flying and landing wires are of different lengths. The wings can be the same length, where the top centre section and the fuselage width are the same. John
  24. John Aero

    I hate photo etch

    The tool I described in post 16 is exactly as simple as that, a flat length of aluminium strip or brass. I've even used a piece of wood, but of at least three to four mm thick. It's just got to stand very hot water for about 20 seconds. I last used the technique about 5 years ago and I still have a box of Nylon rods somewhere. If I can find time I will find it and photograph it. but it may have gone to landfill like much of the old workshop. Most fishing line comes on a reel or bobbin and all you are doing is removing the manufacture induced curve by tensioning it straight it using hot water, and retaining the straightness by cooling it, John
  25. John Aero

    I hate photo etch

    For small dipole aerials, try using a suitable gauge of Nylon fishing line. To put pre-formed holes in epoxy moulds I use the following technique for straightening Nylon line, which can then be chopped up to any required length. I have a strip of aluminium, roughly 25 mm wide and 150 mm long by 1.5 mm thick. Drill a small hole in a corner of the Ali, then saw a fine 'V' shaped slot into one of the 25 mm ends of the metal strip. Pass the Nylon line through the hole and tie a knot in it to secure the line. Then wind the line lengthwise around the 150 mm long Ali strip, making sure that it is tight. Finish the turns by pulling the line tightly into the 'V' notch to lock it. Hold the assembly with pliers and plunge into nearly boiling water. Allow to heat up for a while and then run the assembly under cold water to cool thoroughly. With a craft knife, chop out the straight lengths about 10 mm from the ends. You will now have perfectly straight lengths of Nylon rod. Cut this to your desired sizes and it will glue well with super glue. It will remain straight but it will also have a bit of flexible "bounce back". A similar technique can be used by coiling the Nylon tightly onto a suitable diameter aluminium or brass tube to make circular Loop aerials. Just cut off a loop and secure the ends with super glue. Nylon is much better with this technique than Styrene. Keep the surplus in a tin. The staple like hand hold steps can also be made this way by rounding the edges of some suitable width square rod. John
×
×
  • Create New...