warhawk

Thanks for detailed answers, mates! I guess the Stirling had two tailwheels for the same reason?

Just out of curiosity - why did it have that groove in the middle?

Thanks for the info, Edgar! Fortunately mr Academy got it right (quite an exception this time!)

I found two types on restored Tempests, which one is more suitable for late-war MK.V? This one, a single triangular piece with lightening holes Or this one, comprising of tubular framing?

The landing gear struts are a bit too long on Academy, and too short on Revell. Revell one can easily be fixed by attaching full underwing ordnance, so it looks weighted down...

Thank you for sharing these pics, I have the same model in unbuilt stash, so this is a good reference

That's was just for clarification purposes, you can buy that stuff pretty much at any photocopy service...

I use plastic binding covers. A bit softer, but already come in both clear and tinted versions! http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/tbc-binding/product-detaildoAxtsclCkhI/China-PP-Plastic-Binding-Covers.html The results are decent from my experience, and a perfect material to start with.

Nice model with very subtle and realistic weathering. Also, it looks like a short-span winged G-1 to me.

A nice looking Danish bird there, Blackbird! This model probably won't be soon, I've just started my research on it...

A very nice blast from the past!

Everything is top notch, except the mud. I don't think It would be able to take off with that amount... Or it would seriously clog up wheel wells...

Thanks for the info! Regards Aleksandar

Is the kit accurate in overall dimensions, and are there any outline errors? Also, what are the best plans to lay the kit onto?

To be honest, there is no "typical" nightfighter squiggle scheme. Most were painted in a haste, with a free hand. So there would be differences even between two planes of same unit. Best solution is to find a wartime photo of particular plane and try to get as close to that... If you have trouble spraying it, so did the guys who painted the real thing. So I would be pretty happy with a result like yours.

Thank you for the info. Might I inquire has anyone compared these Spit tools? Which one is better in terms of accuracy?

How come BOTH AZ and RS decide to release a P-39 at nearly the same time? Same question on Sword and AZ new Spit IX/VIII/XVI molds. Are these the same plastic?

How about this technique - a bit labor and time intensive, but gives an even and interesting finish

I would like to make a request for a scan of scale drawings for D3A1 from this book: FAOW #130 thank you in advance. Aleksandar

here's a heplful tip (scan from FSM magazine IIRC):

A very nice resurrection of an old dog... Well done!

Sure, it will take some effort, but is well worth it. Only other option for a decent XII is a Mk.VIII and Mk.XIV hybrid - never a cheap option!!!

Here's a two-part build that outlines some fit issues (particulary the nose): http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2008/01/fridsell-spitfire-xii-01.htm http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2008/01/fridsell-spitfire-xii-02.htm Regards, Aleksandar

Actually, the mold quality is about the same, Both need work... Dako only boxes series66, while Toko/Roden has parts for all versions in every box, but decals only for 2-3 versions (early, mid or late production...)

This might help with the different versions... Also, check out the entire LaGG-3 section on the same page for more goodies