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Tinners

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Posts posted by Tinners

    Studio Scale Blake's 7 DSV2 Liberator (3D printed kit)

    in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace

    Posted

    I tend to use filler to fill the gaps in the layer lines, sand it back, then use spray putty to get the surface silky smooth.
    If it is made of PLA, it is tough as old boots and sanding by hand doesn't have much of an effect, unless you really like sanding!
    The last big prints that I created were rotary sanded with 320 grit paper to get a 'smoother' surface to work from, when filled, sanded with 320 and 600, then spray putty, with sanding between each coat. The finish was wonderful, but even with mechanical assistance, it was a real grind. 

    • Thanks 1

    Anigrand North American F-108A Rapier, long-range heavy interceptor.

    in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft

    Posted

    As ever, a stunning piece of work General! It has a no-nonsense look about it, but I really like the aesthetic of the F-108.
    Whenever I see the cancelled aircraft from the late 50's and early 60's, I see a tanalising glimpse of the road not taken. Aircaft such as the XB-70, F-108, CF-105 and TSR.2 were on the bleeding edge of what could be done with aero design and technology. The powers that be often were looking in the short-term (3-5 years) instead of taking a longer view of the direction of aviation.
    It makes me wonder just what would be flying today if politicians' actually allowed those projects to come to fruition.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    Airfix 1/24 Typhoon Mk.1b

    in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, mick b said:

    Excellent, still struggling to finish mine 🙄😂

     

    Mike

    It's worth the effort. Just make sure everything is absolutely spot on: even a coat of paint is enough to throw some parts off, and that can be bad when putting the radiator cowling on. The measurement Airfix gives in the instructions needs to be precise.

    Tamiya 1/12 NR750

    in Work In Progress - Vehicles

    Posted

    On 7/29/2022 at 2:40 PM, Kiertomäntä said:

    At the time most expensive production bike ever I think. I do have to wonder about spare parts availability for those few who have managed to own one of these...

    I knew a chap who owned one. Never rode it, just had it as a show piece behind glass. It was much more attractive in the flesh (or carbon-fibre) than photos suggest. Even then, certain parts were only made on request.

    Academy 1/32 F/A-18c 'Chippy Ho!'

    in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft

    Posted

    This was an accidental build. I bought the kit when they were going cheap at Hannants with the intention of selling it on later. Buuuuuuuut.... I decided to build it because it looked awesome.
    It was a 100% trouble-free build: it really is one of the first kits that have literally fallen together for me. I have noticed that despite the metal reinforcement, the rear undercarriage is sagging, so I may have to break out my 3d printer to make some replacements sooner rather than later.
    I added some Eduard PE to the ejector seat to make it look a bit busier, and everything else is straight out of the box. 
    The paint is Mr Hobby, which is lovely to use, and I gave the aircraft some weathering, but not too much: this is a CAG bird after all!
    52277042534_28201b8c90_c.jpgFA18_low_mid2 by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52277254315_fb02435a43_c.jpgside_view by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52275793972_6570fc0952_c.jpgTop_Side by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52275791517_fe536e7465_c.jpgunderside by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52275826197_7276f039ba_c.jpgcockpit by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52276774441_58716c89bc_c.jpglanding_gear by DaTinz, on Flickr
     

    • Like 23

    Airfix 1/24 Typhoon Mk.1b

    in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft

    Posted

    I tend to lurk on the site, and in that time, I've built a few things here and there but never shared them, which I realised it quite selfish, and doesn't really contribute, so I am biting the bullet and showing off a couple of buiIds. So here goes!
    I finished this kit about 7 months ago, but actually started it back in 2017. Yep, I'm a slooooow builder...
    I picked this up at Antics in Plymouth for the princely sum of £49.99, which was frankly a bargain. Whilst building it up I realised that I was going to need a bigger workbench: this girl is a bigg'un!
    I added some Airscale placards, Eduard Brassin cannon (Which don't fit properly) and some PE to the cockpit that you frankly can't see.
    After breaking the lower undercarriage, (don't ask!) surgery was needed to repair it, so some SAC metal landing gear was grafted on so the plane could sit on its' tyres again.
    The kit was painted in a combination of Xtracrylix for the camo, Tamiya for the metal bits and engine, and Mr Hobby for the white bits. 
    I also decided to go with a very worn example. I know that this aircraft was one of the tidier examples, but I wanted the lok of an aircraft that has been very busy recently!
    52276809788_64f7f2ec85_c.jpgtyphoon_3_4 by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52276804298_31015a6e53_c.jpgtyphoon_side by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52275814452_4103ec3f09_c.jpgtyphoon_engine_close by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52277049744_bfed7a00e2_c.jpgtyphoon_top by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52276800183_50482d8b0a_c.jpgtyphoon_underside by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52276778931_6ea4ddcfe5_c.jpgundercarriage_detail by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52277278100_55722e227e_c.jpggun_port by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52276815638_f5e5aeff22_c.jpgcockpit_detail by DaTinz, on Flickr

    • Like 61
    • Thanks 1

    Tamiya 1:12 NSR 500 '98 Doohan

    in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles

    Posted

    Although the title says this is the '98 bike, it is actually the '99 kit, due to the '98 NSR 500 being exceedingly expensive nowadays. It's not the best kit I have ever made, not because the kit is bad, but because my eyes are not as good as they once were!
    The colours are courtesy of Zero Paints. I have used them twice now and never failed to be impressed. Due to the differences in the livery between 98 and 99, I have masked off and sprayed it by hand.
    The decals are from the 99 kit and although they were relcutant to release from the paper, they finally surrendered!
    As ever, please feel free to give me your honest critique: I can't get better if I don't know what I am doing wrong. :)
    52254065745_5cfa30a782_c.jpgNSR_Side_No_Fairings by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52253855009_0b1bc82f77_c.jpgNSR_Top_No_Fairings by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52253592143_7c9145a563_c.jpgNSR_3_4_view by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52254070370_4982d0e840_c.jpgNSR Front by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52253593823_096890212d_c.jpgNSR_front_quarter by DaTinz, on Flickr
    52253855939_d85d6063d9_c.jpgNSR_Side_Fairings by DaTinz, on Flickr

    • Like 10

    1/350 KGV & Warspite with 3D printed Drydock

    in Work in Progress - Maritime

    Posted

    I have been pondering this whole drydock idea for quite a while now, so this is as much a KUTA for me as it is a build blog.
    It won't be fast: I'm back at work, and that means little free time for a while, but I'll keep working on it whenever I can.

    So the specifics: I have a Tamiya 1/350 KGV with a Big Ed PE kit (so much brass!), and thanks to fellow member and all-round good mate AndyP, I now have a Trumpeter Warspite to play with.

    Originally I planned just to have the King George in Drydock, looking all messy and tired at the end of a long spell at sea. All of the buildings and fittings will be 3D printed with FDM being used for large components and resin for the small stuff.

    With the addition of Warspite, I have decided to make it a bigger diorama, so I now need to make a sea wall on the outside, so much 3d sculpting will be needed for that, so ZBrush will become my friend in the near future...

    So here's where we are so far.

    50228948411_71ed9ee82a_c.jpgkuta_render by DaTinz, on Flickr

    50229167462_b79be37abf_c.jpgdock_render by DaTinz, on Flickr

    The models were made in 3ds Max. I usually use Maya, but I tend to get better quality STL exports from Max. I am not using Fusion because I usually need an in-built UV map what will literally allow me to sculpt detail into the surface, so bricks, rivets, etc.

    The components were modelled seperately, with the main dock structure being printed on my trusty Anycubic Mega-S, and the stair sections on my Photon resin printer.

    An Ikea picture frame made the ultimate sacrifice for the base, and I got my print on!

    50229165507_0125631188_c.jpgboat2 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr

     

    50229165277_173f81f1f1_c.jpgboat3 by DaTinz, on Flickr

     

    As you can see the print process wasn't entirely successful, but it works for me. I slapped some paint on and have put a really grungy wash on the surface ( don't worry, I will tidy it up a bit!)

     

    Here's the layout as planned: 

    50228302363_8b46bc3359_c.jpgboat1 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr

    50228944501_46a16482b0_c.jpgboat4 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr

     

    I have already started on the KGV, but she's been through a couple of moves, so she's a bit the worse for wear. Some of the railings have been crushed, so I will have to either print replacements or but some new railing PE. Also, the deck is lifting, so I may bite the bullet and remove it, clean up underneath it, and put a new one down. None of the superstructure is glued down, so disassembly will be easy.

    So that's where we are at right now.

    And yes, the steps really are that tiny.

    50228406843_8cb826ab60_c.jpgsteps by DaTinz, on Flickr

     

    • Like 12

    The Weather,

    in Chat

    Posted

    It's meant to be raining in Cornwall, but they are very wrong. It's 30-odd degrees, sunny with 88% humidity.
    My sister lives in the North-West and she said it's 34 degrees C at work with clouds rolling in.

    Anycubic Photon 3D printer

    in 3D Printing Basics

    Posted

    On 8/7/2020 at 9:32 PM, bootneck said:

    UV cured resin is, as it states cured by being subjected to UV light.  This means that the resin starts to harden as soon a UV light/daylight is exposed to it.  So don't leave the lid off the bottle for any length of time; also keep your area covered from the effects of light.  I normally keep the shed door closed and windows covered but, in the heat of recent weeks, I had to open the door to get some fresh air.  To compensate for this, I have strung up an old bedsheet to act as a screen.

    spacer.png

     

    And finally, if I have left any resin in the printer vat, perhaps to do another print of the same the next day, then I will cover the printer to shield it from any UV sources.  The method I use is an old pillow case.

    spacer.png

     

    Well, a bit long winded but I hope this will be of some help when considering how to set up your printing station.

     

    cheers,


    Mike

     

    If you need something a little easier to deal with, I bought some of the flexible magnetic sheet from Hobbycraft and put it on the metal frame. Easy to remove and definitely keeps the light out!

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