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Posts posted by Tinners
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I tend to use filler to fill the gaps in the layer lines, sand it back, then use spray putty to get the surface silky smooth.
If it is made of PLA, it is tough as old boots and sanding by hand doesn't have much of an effect, unless you really like sanding!
The last big prints that I created were rotary sanded with 320 grit paper to get a 'smoother' surface to work from, when filled, sanded with 320 and 600, then spray putty, with sanding between each coat. The finish was wonderful, but even with mechanical assistance, it was a real grind.- 1
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I think they are bracing rods for the undercarriage wheel struts. They were added to XR220 due to the shimmying that Roland Beaumont experienced when he landed XR219 at the end of its first flight.
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Oh, I like that!
As with Ruffmeister 101, I thought the in-flight photo was the real thing.
Congratulations on an excellent result Yury!- 1
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As ever, a stunning piece of work General! It has a no-nonsense look about it, but I really like the aesthetic of the F-108.
Whenever I see the cancelled aircraft from the late 50's and early 60's, I see a tanalising glimpse of the road not taken. Aircaft such as the XB-70, F-108, CF-105 and TSR.2 were on the bleeding edge of what could be done with aero design and technology. The powers that be often were looking in the short-term (3-5 years) instead of taking a longer view of the direction of aviation.
It makes me wonder just what would be flying today if politicians' actually allowed those projects to come to fruition.- 2
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11 minutes ago, mick b said:
As above I’m nearly there Tinners but life getting in the way.🙄
Mike
Doesn't it always!
It took me 5 years to finish this, so you're outpacing me! At the end of the day, it doesn't matter how long it takes as long as you enjoy it.- 1
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6 minutes ago, mick b said:
Excellent, still struggling to finish mine 🙄😂
Mike
It's worth the effort. Just make sure everything is absolutely spot on: even a coat of paint is enough to throw some parts off, and that can be bad when putting the radiator cowling on. The measurement Airfix gives in the instructions needs to be precise.
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On 7/29/2022 at 2:40 PM, Kiertomäntä said:
At the time most expensive production bike ever I think. I do have to wonder about spare parts availability for those few who have managed to own one of these...
I knew a chap who owned one. Never rode it, just had it as a show piece behind glass. It was much more attractive in the flesh (or carbon-fibre) than photos suggest. Even then, certain parts were only made on request.
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That's a lovely conversion and is a wonderful piece of work.
My brother had a CB750F many years ago, and I remember it being a heavy brute of a bike, but yours looks as light as a feather!- 1
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That is glorious! The paint is stunning and a testament to your skill.
I suddenly feel the need to do a 1/48 diorama of a Bucc and Tornado at low level, and I have a Tornado in the stash... Now where's my wallet?😁- 1
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This was an accidental build. I bought the kit when they were going cheap at Hannants with the intention of selling it on later. Buuuuuuuut.... I decided to build it because it looked awesome.
It was a 100% trouble-free build: it really is one of the first kits that have literally fallen together for me. I have noticed that despite the metal reinforcement, the rear undercarriage is sagging, so I may have to break out my 3d printer to make some replacements sooner rather than later.
I added some Eduard PE to the ejector seat to make it look a bit busier, and everything else is straight out of the box.
The paint is Mr Hobby, which is lovely to use, and I gave the aircraft some weathering, but not too much: this is a CAG bird after all!
FA18_low_mid2 by DaTinz, on Flickr
side_view by DaTinz, on Flickr
Top_Side by DaTinz, on Flickr
underside by DaTinz, on Flickr
cockpit by DaTinz, on Flickr
landing_gear by DaTinz, on Flickr
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I tend to lurk on the site, and in that time, I've built a few things here and there but never shared them, which I realised it quite selfish, and doesn't really contribute, so I am biting the bullet and showing off a couple of buiIds. So here goes!
I finished this kit about 7 months ago, but actually started it back in 2017. Yep, I'm a slooooow builder...
I picked this up at Antics in Plymouth for the princely sum of £49.99, which was frankly a bargain. Whilst building it up I realised that I was going to need a bigger workbench: this girl is a bigg'un!
I added some Airscale placards, Eduard Brassin cannon (Which don't fit properly) and some PE to the cockpit that you frankly can't see.
After breaking the lower undercarriage, (don't ask!) surgery was needed to repair it, so some SAC metal landing gear was grafted on so the plane could sit on its' tyres again.
The kit was painted in a combination of Xtracrylix for the camo, Tamiya for the metal bits and engine, and Mr Hobby for the white bits.
I also decided to go with a very worn example. I know that this aircraft was one of the tidier examples, but I wanted the lok of an aircraft that has been very busy recently!
typhoon_3_4 by DaTinz, on Flickr
typhoon_side by DaTinz, on Flickr
typhoon_engine_close by DaTinz, on Flickr
typhoon_top by DaTinz, on Flickr
typhoon_underside by DaTinz, on Flickr
undercarriage_detail by DaTinz, on Flickr
gun_port by DaTinz, on Flickr
cockpit_detail by DaTinz, on Flickr- 61
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The decals on this one were borderline: literally 15 minutes of soaking to get them off the backing sheet, then they creased terribly with the Microsol. It took lots of work just to get them partially smoothed out.
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Although the title says this is the '98 bike, it is actually the '99 kit, due to the '98 NSR 500 being exceedingly expensive nowadays. It's not the best kit I have ever made, not because the kit is bad, but because my eyes are not as good as they once were!
The colours are courtesy of Zero Paints. I have used them twice now and never failed to be impressed. Due to the differences in the livery between 98 and 99, I have masked off and sprayed it by hand.
The decals are from the 99 kit and although they were relcutant to release from the paper, they finally surrendered!
As ever, please feel free to give me your honest critique: I can't get better if I don't know what I am doing wrong.
NSR_Side_No_Fairings by DaTinz, on Flickr
NSR_Top_No_Fairings by DaTinz, on Flickr
NSR_3_4_view by DaTinz, on Flickr
NSR Front by DaTinz, on Flickr
NSR_front_quarter by DaTinz, on Flickr
NSR_Side_Fairings by DaTinz, on Flickr- 10
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17 minutes ago, bentwaters81tfw said:
Probably a former Buccaneer pilot.
Even then, he probably thought he was too high.
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Here you all go: 3D printable STL's!
Enjoy!
Linky thing: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QDUVayMMiXOlIwQR7OFyCXf7POxz8SOK/view?usp=sharing- 1
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Right then, I'll get everything zipped up and type a quick readme file.
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I have the STL's already made, so scaling up to 1/200 or down to 1/700 is just a case of changing the multiplier in the slicing software. I might make them available to everyone, so if they want a drydock, or drydock section, they are ready and waiting.
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Separate parts works well for me. It allows me to add custom supports instead of relying on the software to do it for me.
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I can give it a go. The resin printer can go to silly levels of detail, so even fine girders can be printed.
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I have been pondering this whole drydock idea for quite a while now, so this is as much a KUTA for me as it is a build blog.
It won't be fast: I'm back at work, and that means little free time for a while, but I'll keep working on it whenever I can.So the specifics: I have a Tamiya 1/350 KGV with a Big Ed PE kit (so much brass!), and thanks to fellow member and all-round good mate AndyP, I now have a Trumpeter Warspite to play with.
Originally I planned just to have the King George in Drydock, looking all messy and tired at the end of a long spell at sea. All of the buildings and fittings will be 3D printed with FDM being used for large components and resin for the small stuff.
With the addition of Warspite, I have decided to make it a bigger diorama, so I now need to make a sea wall on the outside, so much 3d sculpting will be needed for that, so ZBrush will become my friend in the near future...
So here's where we are so far.
kuta_render by DaTinz, on Flickr
dock_render by DaTinz, on Flickr
The models were made in 3ds Max. I usually use Maya, but I tend to get better quality STL exports from Max. I am not using Fusion because I usually need an in-built UV map what will literally allow me to sculpt detail into the surface, so bricks, rivets, etc.
The components were modelled seperately, with the main dock structure being printed on my trusty Anycubic Mega-S, and the stair sections on my Photon resin printer.
An Ikea picture frame made the ultimate sacrifice for the base, and I got my print on!
boat2 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr
As you can see the print process wasn't entirely successful, but it works for me. I slapped some paint on and have put a really grungy wash on the surface ( don't worry, I will tidy it up a bit!)
Here's the layout as planned:
boat1 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr
boat4 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr
I have already started on the KGV, but she's been through a couple of moves, so she's a bit the worse for wear. Some of the railings have been crushed, so I will have to either print replacements or but some new railing PE. Also, the deck is lifting, so I may bite the bullet and remove it, clean up underneath it, and put a new one down. None of the superstructure is glued down, so disassembly will be easy.
So that's where we are at right now.
And yes, the steps really are that tiny.
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The Weather,
in Chat
It's meant to be raining in Cornwall, but they are very wrong. It's 30-odd degrees, sunny with 88% humidity.
My sister lives in the North-West and she said it's 34 degrees C at work with clouds rolling in. -
I'm happy to do some resin printing if needed. I have an Anycubic Photon, so anything up to 115 x 65 x 155 mm is do-able.
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On 8/7/2020 at 9:32 PM, bootneck said:
UV cured resin is, as it states cured by being subjected to UV light. This means that the resin starts to harden as soon a UV light/daylight is exposed to it. So don't leave the lid off the bottle for any length of time; also keep your area covered from the effects of light. I normally keep the shed door closed and windows covered but, in the heat of recent weeks, I had to open the door to get some fresh air. To compensate for this, I have strung up an old bedsheet to act as a screen.
And finally, if I have left any resin in the printer vat, perhaps to do another print of the same the next day, then I will cover the printer to shield it from any UV sources. The method I use is an old pillow case.
Well, a bit long winded but I hope this will be of some help when considering how to set up your printing station.
cheers,
MikeIf you need something a little easier to deal with, I bought some of the flexible magnetic sheet from Hobbycraft and put it on the metal frame. Easy to remove and definitely keeps the light out!
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By all means!
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Polar Lights 1/350 Enterprise Build
in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
Posted
I have one in the stash: I just need to pull the trigger and buy all the extras to make it awesome, so I will definitely be watching this!