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About Tinners

  • Birthday 03/14/1974

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    Cornwall, UK

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  1. Here you all go: 3D printable STL's! Enjoy! Linky thing: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QDUVayMMiXOlIwQR7OFyCXf7POxz8SOK/view?usp=sharing
  2. Right then, I'll get everything zipped up and type a quick readme file.
  3. I have the STL's already made, so scaling up to 1/200 or down to 1/700 is just a case of changing the multiplier in the slicing software. I might make them available to everyone, so if they want a drydock, or drydock section, they are ready and waiting.
  4. Separate parts works well for me. It allows me to add custom supports instead of relying on the software to do it for me.
  5. I can give it a go. The resin printer can go to silly levels of detail, so even fine girders can be printed.
  6. I have been pondering this whole drydock idea for quite a while now, so this is as much a KUTA for me as it is a build blog. It won't be fast: I'm back at work, and that means little free time for a while, but I'll keep working on it whenever I can. So the specifics: I have a Tamiya 1/350 KGV with a Big Ed PE kit (so much brass!), and thanks to fellow member and all-round good mate AndyP, I now have a Trumpeter Warspite to play with. Originally I planned just to have the King George in Drydock, looking all messy and tired at the end of a long spell at sea. All of the buildings and fittings will be 3D printed with FDM being used for large components and resin for the small stuff. With the addition of Warspite, I have decided to make it a bigger diorama, so I now need to make a sea wall on the outside, so much 3d sculpting will be needed for that, so ZBrush will become my friend in the near future... So here's where we are so far. kuta_render by DaTinz, on Flickr dock_render by DaTinz, on Flickr The models were made in 3ds Max. I usually use Maya, but I tend to get better quality STL exports from Max. I am not using Fusion because I usually need an in-built UV map what will literally allow me to sculpt detail into the surface, so bricks, rivets, etc. The components were modelled seperately, with the main dock structure being printed on my trusty Anycubic Mega-S, and the stair sections on my Photon resin printer. An Ikea picture frame made the ultimate sacrifice for the base, and I got my print on! boat2 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr boat3 by DaTinz, on Flickr As you can see the print process wasn't entirely successful, but it works for me. I slapped some paint on and have put a really grungy wash on the surface ( don't worry, I will tidy it up a bit!) Here's the layout as planned: boat1 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr boat4 (2) by DaTinz, on Flickr I have already started on the KGV, but she's been through a couple of moves, so she's a bit the worse for wear. Some of the railings have been crushed, so I will have to either print replacements or but some new railing PE. Also, the deck is lifting, so I may bite the bullet and remove it, clean up underneath it, and put a new one down. None of the superstructure is glued down, so disassembly will be easy. So that's where we are at right now. And yes, the steps really are that tiny. steps by DaTinz, on Flickr
  7. Tinners

    The Weather,

    It's meant to be raining in Cornwall, but they are very wrong. It's 30-odd degrees, sunny with 88% humidity. My sister lives in the North-West and she said it's 34 degrees C at work with clouds rolling in.
  8. I'm happy to do some resin printing if needed. I have an Anycubic Photon, so anything up to 115 x 65 x 155 mm is do-able.
  9. If you need something a little easier to deal with, I bought some of the flexible magnetic sheet from Hobbycraft and put it on the metal frame. Easy to remove and definitely keeps the light out!
  10. I have an FDM and SLA printer and use both regularly. Generally speaking, if it is big and doesn't need huge amounts of detail. the FDM is the one to use. If fine detail is needed, then resin printing is the winner. At the moment, I am waiting for the Elegoo Saturn to arrive at Amazon: large-scale resin prints for under £500: worth a look at!
  11. Just as an addendum to Schwarz-Brot and Mig-Eater's excellent advice regarding resin: The resin is an allergen, so wearing gloves and a facemask is highly recommended. Without them, exposure to the resin will cause rashes, hives and itching. I've seen a lot of peple working with the resin and not wearing any protection, not realising the risks they are exposing themselves to.
  12. Trim the supports before you cure. I had this exact issue when printing a 1/350 crane. I cured it and managed to snap the girders and legs. I re-printed and cut the supports off and then cured it under a nail polish UV lamp. Curing took less than a minute.
  13. This is a build of epic proportions and has shown your very evident skills at every stage. Loving it so far, and looking forwards to the finale! On a side note, I have a link to a spreadsheet for resin cure times in the Photon printer. I've found that the Translucent Green has significantly faster timings due to the UV penetrating the material. I've used both translucent and solid resins and found that although the grey gives a good indicator of the quality of the print, once they've had a shot of primer, you can't tell one from the other. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/edit#gid=0 Good work on the lamps: that's an eye-strainer for sure!
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