AdriaN (MLT)

V... you seem to have a small mistake. on the aircrafts left wing, which is on our right, you have some white overspray!

Some wheel well detail before being closed up by gear doors. pity... The aircrafts body done up, filled and sanded. i lost alot of panel lines.. since they were raised I primed the model with model master gray primer... first time ever ive used primer!

Hey WhiteSpirit is also great! both for cleaning and for thinning

You mean nylon thread?

Im curious... how did you fit in those cables? during construction or after? what material did you use? how did you stick them? I built 2 biplanes a while ago and i used thread and put them on during construction which gave me loads of problems!

Hmm its like any other plastic. some thick parts are quite hard. the mold itself isnt that great. i have alot of filling to do :\ AND trimming before filling. did you do this exact model?

I use both together nowadays. i used acrylic AND enamel on my F4 AND varnished over it with enamel..... nothing went wrong. acrylics are indistructable to thinner based paints....

Well 'mentalguru' gave me the idea of making them slightly dihedral and when i DID bend the wings SLIGHTLY, i found the gaps closed. There isnt a big change, just slightly dihedral This picture of the panther shows some dihedral is present. I guess IT is the correct one-

Guys, i decided to buy my first gray primer of Model Master in the small tub, iv never used primer before as a hand brush user, i didnt really think it was so necessary, so i tested it out by brushing it on. And i was a bit surprised by the result..... 1-it dried semi gloss and 2- it feels smooth and looks just like gray paint. i always thought primer felt dusty and rough ....which is how, i thought, paint sticks to it. Am i being fooled into thinking its primer... or is it just how primer really is? or im too much of an annoying pessimist who has to find fault in everything? Anyone tried this particular primer?

Haha it would have looked more ''realistic'' if you wasted time pre and post scribing...

OOh darn you all make me feel like crap with all your fancy desks! my desk is tiny! BUT many of you have their pc on the same desk. my pc is in another room. coming to think of it...i have 3 rooms that i use for modelling. My bed room, garage, pc room i will be posting pics on my home built extractor soon....

This is my desk. quite small. its in my bed room. alot of ventilation since its quite big. iv been working on it for years. the fan circulates the air nicely i airbrush in the garage.

HUGE gaps between the wing and fuselage! Since the panther has dihedral wings... and this models wings were straight... i made them dihedral by putting weight on the spine and put glue in the large gaps

Now comes the never ending, dirty, tough part i hate most!.....sanding, filling and sanding again

The camera lenses were not given as decals but printed ON the instruction sheet! A bit disappointing..because the cameras diameter did not fit in the camera lenses perimeter well. The big cameras fit in just right, but the small cameras were abit too large for the small camera lense The cameras were placed on the clear plastic, in their position & pva (dries transperant) placed over them The view from the bottom

I have this model! it was a bitch. biplanes are the toughest iv done. i stuck the wooden spokes on the bottom wings along side the cables that gave me many problems when i put on the top wong. how did you fit in the cables AFTER construction? are they nylon?

Actually i think the top wing halfs are a tiny bit too short! i was putting them together (without glue) and i found gaps between the inner edge of the wing piece and fuselage. if i move the wing inwards to touch the fuselage... the tanks at the end wil be seriously not round with huge gaps which are impossible to fill. I dont think ill manage to make them slightly dihedral. though they are NOT totally straight, so i dont think its necesarry to change anything... Have you done this model?

what do you mean? the wings arnt at the right angle and need adjusting?

how hot? its around 30 here and going up. hotter than england ever gets. & i can still hand paint with acrylics. the LID drys up after a few minutes...

I scratchbuilt the ejection cables out of copper wire Making the proper green paint was a real bitc*. i simply couldnt make the right colour! after loads of experiments i made the right mix- SM Patina, dark green, yellow and some dull coat. All the cockpit interiors ready to be closed n glued up. those black blotches are nuts for weight. Front gear bay in close up

Tough one i say!.... Feel free to comment The armament is useless, since its a recon version. this kit was taken from the monogram model.. Spoilt for choice! but im going for the all blue & red paint job (box). nice and easy. no masking. Im fedup of the 'usual' grey and green camos Squad badge Got myself some research

IT IS in two little cube bottles! one is yellow labelled and other is orange. So in other words these 2 cotes must be REALLY OLD! they look old anyway... hope the still work It is not the newer humbrol product...

Guys i went out to buy my usual Model Masters decal solvent solution and found the Humbrol Decal Cote 1 & Humbrol Decal Cote 2. i bought it instead of the MM. Any one used them yet? any news? are they to strong or weak? Is it a SETTING solution? or just a COTE? does it soften the decal and make it conform nicely? Before i always used M.M solutions, which comes in just one tub-...unlike this humbrol & micro-sol & set. Its good. not too strong and works very well with thin decals for anyone who is unsure about MM. I must try this new Humbrol out and understand how and when to use the first tub and second I hope this topic isnt in another forum already, well i didnt find it so.....

Emm the thinner i use is White Spirit. iv been using it that way for years, in hand brushing. its great. it melts it right off. even for airbrushing its great. The bottle says it can be used for thinning and cleaning. no problem there right?

Hmm my compressor gets VERY hot. it always did. so its nothing bad right? it also vibrates alot. My compressor doesnt have a 'tank'. is it good or bad? Im scared to open it up to see how it works (no need to its still knew) and its oil free too. My compressor is the type that pumps. stops at the selected psi. then when i use my AB it pumps up what is lost. My compressor is of Fengda Japan, it is ALMOST EXACTLY like Stebos. just mine doesnt have that black tank!