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Ingo Degenhardt

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Everything posted by Ingo Degenhardt

  1. Nice F-80! I still have Monogram's 1/48 F-80 in the stash. One of my oldest. And I cannot recommend Print Scale either. Very disappointing once off the backing sheet. I did not use them in the end (Had a sheet for an Aichi D3A1)
  2. Not really in my opinion - I built the RAF tanktrucks and they are very basic kits. I put in a lot of extra work. Can't judge all the other sets.
  3. Thanks all for the replies. Also: Actually I had hoped to be able to glue some different munition on one of the pylons - GBU-31/32 or 4xGBU-39.... But I am only able to find pictures with four GBU-12s... 😞
  4. Thank you for the profound answer. I have here Reskit's GBU-12s with the protective layer. So I am going to use them. Instructions say to paint them all Green except for the brown area between the forward fins, but I think there is almost any combination of grey and green possible between guidance kit, bomb body and steering kit, is it not?
  5. Hello, I am currently building an F-35B (USMC, USS America) and I wonder wether it would be right to use thermally protected weapons (GBU-12, etc) instead of the 'normal' versions of these munitions. Does anyone know if this would be correct/possible? In general, I am also looking for the actual possible weapons the F-35 is cleared for and on what station but haven't found anything really convincing so far. regards, Ingo
  6. Thanks - they do look quite ok. I will ask him if the set is still available
  7. Hi, I seem to be unable to find anything suitable, so: Does anyone know of a set of british tank crews fitting the 1/72 Mk.10 & 11 Chieftains by Takom? Ingo
  8. Very nicely built and I love the freehand camo job. What kind of airbrush did you use?
  9. Very nice 'Val'! I had the same decal problem with my Fujimi kit when I tried to use PrintScale Decals - much too Orange. The kit decals were too old to use. I finally also painted almost everything except the Number (just like you did) and gave the Number (AI-210) a very carefully painted coat of thinned Hinomaru Red (Gunze) to get them a little bit more on the red side. This worked to a degree.
  10. Hi Andre, mine a for a camouflaged Mirage IIIC - will have a look at those FS colours. bedankt Ingo
  11. Checked this one - looks about right. Thank you. ingo ps: The guest house looks nice.
  12. Does anyone know what FS/RAL colour the blue Star in the Israeli National Insignia is? I bought painting masks for those but they lack colour specifications. Ingo
  13. Nice! And you're right - I built the A6M5 by Tamiya last year and it goes together just perfectly. The only small downside of these kits are the usual thick Tamiya decals.
  14. Right - a side profile is no proof. I have heard or read that too - the digit number differences served to confuse about the real number of existing aircraft. Looks like this system is still working - only that it is us now who are confused.😉
  15. Thank you again for your extensive information (It seems I have the wrong books...and too few) So I might go with 778, Atar 9C and five kill markings - so far. As starting the kit is only in the near future, something might still come up. If not, I only have to decide between 152 and 778. Your answers were very helpful, Jure. Thanks for that. Ingo
  16. Hi Jure, thank you very much for your investigations. This is interesting because the eduard kit includes a marking option for '778' (Atar 9C) but with 101 Squadron in 1972 and already marked with eight kill markings (four above and four below the 'Mirage IIIC' stencil (which I think was standard, not 'CJ'). It is my impression that the IAF changed aircraft between Squadrons quite a lot. Would you be so nice to have a look at your photo again how many kill markings are on that aircraft? This might be an option because 119 Squadron markings are also included in the kit. Thnaks again, Ingo
  17. Looks excellent - I like the camouflage very much. How did you do the masking between camouflage colours?
  18. Hi, I have here eduards Shahak kit in 1/48 and would like to built the above aircraft that participated in Operation Rimon20 in 1970. No. 152 (52) of 101 Squadron is the only one I am sure about that it was among the Shahaks used in this Operation. I was only able to find a single picture in a book showing only the front part oft the aircraft with '52' painted on the nose wheel front cover - plus a side-view drawing that shows the aircraft as 152 on the vertical stabilizer. Questions: Does anybody know if '152' is correct and wether the aircraft had the Atar 9B or had already been modified to the 9C? If anyone has clear information about any other aircraft from Rimon20 that would be very helpful as well. I am not 'fixed' on No. 52, but it's the only one I know about.
  19. Very well done, I like it a lot. Must be an impressive beast on the shelf. Hope you got good dust protection for the display.
  20. Yes, I had to do several coats to achieve an even, glossy finish but I did not consider the coat to be too thick (no panel lines flooded 🙂 ) Still, I had the same thought and apart from any strange reaction with the Alclad white primer (I think that very unlikely) it's the only explanation I can think of. No other choice than give it more time, I think.
  21. Right - no other contents added. As said, it seemed to dry rather quickly - you could run a finger over it an hour later. But it seems to be soft beneath a kind of dry surface/skin.
  22. Thanks. I should have mentioned that I used the Aqueous Thinner (No. 110) - not the Levelling thinner; that I only use with Mr. Hobby laquer colours and had no problems so far. Never had any issues with the flat Aqueous Colors. ingo
  23. Years later, finally a reply 🙂 I am experiencing the exact same probem with Gunze H1 (Aqueous Hobby Color Gloss White) - I sprayed it three days ago on the undersides of my Victor K2 - sprays nicely with the Gunze Thinner (although it needs a few layers even on Alclad II white primer), seems to dry quickly to a high gloss finish. But - the model can't be handled yet....fingerprints even if only slight pressure is applied (holding the model). I was able to sand them off luckily but I have to do some extensive masking (grey/green upper surfaces) and I dare not put on masking tape for fear of ruining the white finish, not to speak of fingerprints while handling it for the masking procedure. How long did you finally wait until proceeding? Additional question: Is it the same with Gunzes Mr. Colour gloss paints (the laquer type)?
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