Jump to content

canberra kid

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by canberra kid

  1. Looking good Ian, I'm sure he'll be knocked out by it! she'll look better when she's all dressed up, they always do! John
  2. The photo is of NZ898 in final assembly at Samlesbury, the page is from the Halifax III AP, book one. John
  3. Can you a direct comparison with the FROG wing and the new version please? If they are the same or very close that will be good news. John
  4. Are you trying on a phone? If so you need to try a PC or Apple laptop, for some reason the server doesn't get on with mobile devices. There is a work round but it's beyond my skill set. If all else fails email me at canberra.sig@googlemail.com John
  5. If they did a B.2 and a B.6 kit they could use everything in the two kits to do a PR.3 and PR.7 with the addition of new fuselages. Job done! John
  6. The way I do it Jason involves 3 kits. I always base my PR.3 and PR.7's on the old Airfix B.57 kit. When they changed the mold they some how managed to get the fuselage length wrong, making it too long, but right for a PR. Canberra! The next part is the hardest, ideally you need the last version of the Aeroclub replacement nose, if not that any off the other B.2 style nose replacements. The last thing in the mix are a set of wings from the FROG B.(I)8 or any of it's reincarnations, or the newer Airfix B.(I)8 then you have the makings of a good PR.7. Aeroclub did a vac form fuselage if you can find one, you could use that with an Airfix 8. John
  7. You would definitely need two fuselages for the RB.57A and B.57B/C a modification to rear end of the B would cover the E. You could do the wings with a drop in panel on the upper and underside, so yes it can be done. There are some other details but nothing big. I still think the British Canberra would need two kits, at least. John
  8. No, it would need new wings too. The fuselage is diferant between the A and the B too, not just the nose. John
  9. Nice, I did send them the info so it looks like they used what I sent, though I didn't get a response at the time. John
  10. The Martin Canberra would definitely be two kits minimum, I still think at least 2 for the British Canberra too. John
  11. So did they do new wings for the T.17? Have you got one of the old kits to compare it with? John
  12. I can't remember if I have it on my site IPMS UK Canberra SIG. If not let me know and I'll dig it out. But given the inaccuracy of the wing in the kit you will probably need to start from scratch. John
  13. The only problem with that Piotr is the difference between Mk.'s you can't do an accurate generic Canberra, you could just about do a B.2 family and a separate kit for the B.6 family but there are difference between all of them in the skin details. John
  14. I doubt it very much James, I did send them all the correct info, but I suspect it's still the same kit, otherwise they would have had to to start from scratch, so I think it's left with the same issues as before, but they did get the B.2 wheel hub sorted in the end! So no all bad. John
  15. I doubt any changes have been made to the kit other than markings. Still waiting for a good 1/72 B.2! John
  16. Andre, the "do not use" ones should look like the ones in Ian's post in answer to my question, the T.17 was a B.2 derivative, so it would have the same paten hub as the B.2. John
  17. It should be ok Ian, Fairies no nothing about wheels Another question, do you get a choice of starter carriage fairings? If you do it's the short ones you need. John
  18. Hi Ian, I thought the HP kit didn't have the mudguards, so that's good in this case, The wheels are the later 'big' wheel which is quite diferant to the B.2 pattern wheel, but other than the very hard to find Aeroclub resin wheel there isn't really an alternative, unless the Russian outfit that do resin wheels do them, I can't remember the name of the company, sorry. The fuel vapor mast would be on the lower right hand side below the tail plain, but that was a later mod not on the one you're building so that's easy, just don't fit it! just drill a small hole on the side of the fuselage, if you can plough through all the pages my B.2 build will show you where it goes. I've attached your photo with some pointers, the two circled areas need filling on both sides of the nacelle as they are for the Avon 109 engine, I hope that makes sense?
  19. Shaping up nicely Ian, don't forget not to add the fuel vent mast and nose wheel mudguards (if included?) What are the main wheel hubs like? John
  20. @Ray_W Ray, this is the ground equipment for controlling the Canberra U.10, this was designed and built by Shorts. John
  21. I know the pitfalls of interpreting colour from B&W photos, but I had similar thoughts David. There is another photo of a line of Spits that he took but I can't find it, but I don't think it would add much more anyway. John
  22. This is probably doesn't add much but this is a photo my dad took in between flying. John
  • Create New...