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Everything posted by PetrOs

  1. I concentrated on building the base and display case. I printed them on my Creality Ender 3 with PLA filament. The frame was a bit thin, so the higher - the worse surface on the vertical posts. Plus some strange stringing on regular intervals. Nothing some putty and sandpaper cant fix . I assembled the frame, leaving the upper layer (which locks the plexiglass on top) attached only on one side, before sanding. On the base, 2 corners lifted a bit, and horizontal surfaces were probably too thin for low infill, so some gaps happened. So I glued the base to a flat 2mm polystirol sheet, filled and sanded the corners, corrected the surfaces, and added tineo wood veneer. I found some paints stored away at least 10 years ago, most were dry, but some ok. They were me too suspicious to use on a model, but I thought that I could sand them here away if it goes wrong. I took a bottle of Gunze black, and applied it. then some future, then modelmaster flat matte. Then I inserted the top plexiglas part, finally attached the top layer, sanded, painted black, which is now drying. Vertical plexiglas panels are inserted from below, and I would only do it when close to be completed.
  2. Founding my own 3D print company takes a lot of time, so not much time to build now. However, as I had a few free hours, I decided to make the base and the cover. The base is 15x15cm landscape, and 18x18cm outside, and will be printed in black PLA filament. The cover is split in 3 parts (legs + top basic structure, top middle level, and top upper level) and will be printed in steel PLA. 2mm plexiglass sheet will be used as the glazing. The base sides will be laminated with wood sheet (most likely 0.5mm tineo wood), the landscape will be done with grass mats, trees, different objects, etc...
  3. Thanks! The progress is slow, as founding my own industrial 3d printing company takes 10-15 hours/day from me.... Tracks are assembled, but not glued to the hull now. Some small parts like armored light, exhaust, etc, and I can go on painting. Track is simplified, the road wheels should be double. But they would be barely visible in grass. Maybe I will put a black decal strip on them or so to simulate the gap. Design like, say, trumpeter's SU-152 with inner wheels cast to track, and outer wheels then added would have been better. The turrets of T-26 and BT-7 were interchangeable, only difference were pistol ports on the turret sides - one used a plug and chain cover, and another a flap, due to production factory simplifications.
  4. So, slowly progressing with the build. The turret is nearly done, tiny loops holding the antenna frame are done. Just both hatches and the antenna inlet are missing yet. Right hatch will be open, with commander seated on its side. Left hatch would be closed, as the gunner is already at his sights. Antenna inlet would be 0.3mm wire. The basic hull form is there, but lots of details are to be done. I will make the running gear separate by now, and only add it after painting. Comparing the kit to the plans, i am quite sure the kit is a 1935 manufactured machine. It has large transmission hatch and drivers booth added as in 1935, but still has square commanders hatch which were replaced by round one with AA turret in 1936.
  5. Thanks! I somehow thought it would fetch the image and upload it to this forum, not reference it from external. I switched to use pictures from karopka.ru, my original build thread in russian. That seems to work, at least from a different browser which is not logged in there.
  6. On a russian karopka.ru forum, there is a group build dedicated to the "Technics of Victory" - any soviet or lend-lease gun, vehicle, plane or ship is welcome. I decided to make a twin dioramas, and this is the first one. It is the first day of the german invasion of Soviet Union. A young junior lieutenant Gawrila waits with his 1936 built vintage T-26 tank in ambush for a german invader column. The enemy is still behind a small hill, but can be heard well, tank crew and a few troopers are full alert and waiting with tension for their first firefight. The tank is well hidden on a forest edge, a natural hole (maybe an old drainage trench or so) in the forest floor with a tree stump and old tree trunk covered with high grass and some bushes make a perfect hull down position, a tree on the side covering the infantrymen. It would be followed by the second diorama, with the same Gawrila, this time a colonel, leading his IS-2/ISU-152/T-34-85 or similar past a blasted german tank and the Unter den Linden Street shield in Berlin on the last day of war. This would be called "Gawrila fought the war to end!" This mini-series is dedicated to all the people who fought this cruel war from the first day to the last. However, why Gawrila? It is a common male name in USSR back in the 30es, and thus acting as a representation of an anonymous trooper. But there is also another reason. In the very famous russian novel "Twelve Chairs" (which I am re-reading now ), one of the secondary characters is a talentless poet, who is producing a mass of very similar poems for different magazines. The main subject is a man named Gawrila, and in these poems, he does a myriad of jobs - for the "Post courier" the poem starts as "Gawrila was the post employee, Gawrila brought the letters to", for "Fireman magazine" - "Gawrila was the fire fighter, Gawrila fires fought this night", for "The Hunter" - "Gawrila waited for a hare, Gawrila shot a hare today", and so on. So in russian folk language Gawrila is somewhat a kind of a guy who makes any kind of job, without really stanting out, but doing the job thoroughly. Thus I thought this name would pass well to the character, and also placing the names of both parts to the same poem rhyme was possible in both russian, german and english. So back to the diorama. I will be using the T-26 from the S-Model kit. The kit quality is decent, and it represents a T-26 tank. However it is not a model 1933 as on the package, but is built 1936 or 1937. It has a large transmission hatch on the bow, extended driver booth, but still a "cylinder" turret with vertical walls and vertical walls of the upper hull. The kit looks to be well matching to available plans, and the fit is reported to be very good. Main drawback is a very fragile frame antenna, and a simplified running gear. First is not a big trouble, and the second can be rectified by mud and grass, as well as some simple modifications. The kit contains a brass turned barrel, but I had a RB models turned barrel, which looks slightly finer and sharper, so I used this one. Landscape would be 3D printed (to fit one of standard display case covers by Trumpeter, Tamiya or similar), then different landscape mats, trees, bushes, etc from model railroad supply, self-3d-printed stuff like stumps, would be applied. The figures would be from my "russian figure" box which contains over 30 different resin and plastic figure sets in 1/72 I painted a basic sketch to plan the diorama The sketch is just a general impression, for example the machine gunner is very likely to be either a DP gunner from Zvezda's Soviet Border Guards set, or a Maxim MG team from the appropriate Zvezda or Plastic Soldier set. The antenna is very fragile, and broke apart in several places. I tried to rescue it, but failed, several pieces to clean up, and glue clumps looked ugly. Thus, I used it as a template and got some Albion Alloys nickel-silver 0.45mm rod to replace it. 20 minutes of bending and fitting, then cut away the plastic antenna from its "legs", and apply the metal part. I still need to add the loops which held the antenna to the legs, but this is an easy task using thin paper stripes and CA glue. Another mod was the coaxial MG. it was not protruding that far as in kit, so I put an U-formed scrap plastic strip bit around the barrel back, thus shortening the MG by around 2mm, and drilled out the end with a 0.2mm bit.
  7. Its actually nothing complex. Basic resin 3D printers like Anycubic Photon can be found for under 200 Euro, there is finally odourless eco-resin available for them, and you can find thousands of 3d models online. I had a look, for ATRs I found both 4 and 6 bladed variants for free in good detail. Extracting the props would be a childs play there.
  8. I know your pain, frsin kits are not quite the best resin you can get. Compared to AWM, RusAir or Authentic Airliners, they are trash. I started their ATR a few years ago and put it aside. However may continue once, since I got a resin 3d printer, and could now design and print any spares for me. Already did that very often for my builds, and my daughter won silver medal in 7 to 12 year olds category with a fully 3d printed 1:144 models (dinosaurs diorama) last year...
  9. Deleted - no traders
  10. Spent some time testing my new light box and taking some pictures of my guys. Doing some painfully slow progress on both Cavalierguard and Horse guard. Nearly done, but some oil smoothing needed on the white uniform parts. Swords as usual hard steel. I also made some fixes on the infantry guys, adding more highlights, etc. From the time schedule, i think it is going to be a christmas gift, or even next birthday - time is critically low..
  11. I was very unhappy about the picture quality before, so bought a tripod for the camera, and took some lessons on how to use my DSLR in manual mode, and post process the stuff. Much happier with the pics, even if not perfect.
  12. Spent some time yesterday and today to paint 2 officers, and do some minor changes on the ensign. Plus oil and pigments on the lads. One in a hat is from Warlords, in a forage cap from Perry. Swords replaced with hard steel ones machined with proxxon diamond disk from 1mm hard steel wire, and they are really knife sharp
  13. White metal figures should be robust, as designed for wargames. I will be replacing protruding things like flags, lances or swords with hard steel rod too Good tip with size, will have to check it
  14. On a russian forum, I was made aware that the Perry's figures have the wrong uniform for Borodino. They have the 1812 model Barden uniform, which only found wide distribution after 1813. However, some sources (like http://napoleonistyka.atspace.com/French_infantry.html#_uniforms referencing Koen de Smet) tell us that the Davout 1st army corps was issued this uniform before the invasion of Russia, and the 30 de Ligne was exactly in this corps (1st Division, Bonamy brigade). As I anyways plan a second set for sale, themed on either Leipzig or Waterloo, Perry guys could just shift there. I just ordered a stack of Front Rank figures as a replacement.
  15. Yesterday evening I finally started painting. I took the ensign bearer as a "test" figure. It is a figure from the warlord's Russian infantry set - the infantrymen are plastic, while the command group is white metal. It is well cast, and the seams only needed to be removed with a light touch of the blade. I painted the dark shadow color by now. I am often painting the dark base, and then add highlights to it, instead of mid-tone and then paint in shadows and hightlights. I also ran a washing over the figure to darken the edges and pits even more. Working with acrylics of different brands, Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejo, Revell and Lifecolor were used so far. Tonight, the highlights, oils, and pigments would come upon this boy. I will also need to make the guy to an NCO by adding the gold strips on the cuffs and collar The flag is self printed - it is a regimental "white" color of the Ufa regiment. The graphics come from http://www.vexillographia.ru/russia/rarmy034.htm#pe174 , processed, laid out and printed on normal office paper, brushed with diluted white glue and glued together same time as forming. I will cover it with the flat coat and also add some pigment treatment later. The borders will get some color treatment. It will also need the golden bands with pompons on them added to the flagstaff.
  16. Surely, but not sure yet if i will do realistic bases or just figure on a base. In the first variant, gabions or an earth wall
  17. As I am thrown around what to make to the Rook, I will do 2 variants of it, and see what I like more - General on the redoubt wall - Smaller scale cannon. Sean from Newline miniatures was so polite to measure their guns for me, they should fit without problem. I ordered a few.
  18. Great thing! Would be nice to see the parallel process - best possibility for exchanging the ideas! I actually struck a preliminary agreement with the russian wood base manufacturer DerevoModelshik for the bases, so if you wish, you could also jump in
  19. It would be nearly impossible.... already the horizontal projection of the carriage between the axle and tail is around 50-51mm, plus the barrel and wheels projecting forward.... Alternatively of course, I could put there just the 1/72 cannons with no servants as a symbol...
  20. Also true, but it would look incomplete somehow... My wife suggested the following setup: King - Napoleon/Kutuzov, on a high base Queen - Mashal/full general (for russians - Ermolov) on horseback Rook - Redoubt wall section, with a foot major general or colonel on it. Would then be Col. Toll and Gen. Kutaisov for russians. Bishop - Company command group - junior officer, flag bearer, and a drummer if fits. For russians, the flags would be regimental and bataillion colors for Ufa regiment, as here http://www.vexillographia.ru/russia/rarmy034.htm#pe174 - the regiment used the 1798 regulation flags. French would be using the 1803 pattern colors of the 30th line. Knight - polish lancer of the elite company. It can be obtained by combining the guard lancer figure with a different head from the hussar "elite company" in bearskin colpack. I found a painting showing the polish lancers charging exactly the Raevski-Redoubt - For russians, knight would be Guard Cuirassiers of both regiments: Cavalierguards like on this painting and a Horse Guard In both paintings they clash with polish Uhlans! What would you say about such a plan? As for casting: All figures are acceptable. In white metal, I find the Warlord casting to be slightly better then Perry's. Plastic figures from Victrix are fantastic - abundance of arms, heads and gear separately. A pain for wargamer but a bless for modeler It has some small defects however, some sink marks and pits in the backpacks or shako tops. Warlords are much less options, but the casting is better. Plus metal figs included. I will start either with some junior officer and standard bearer, or with the Cuirassier. They will all need a replacement sword, my plan is to use the 0.8mm hard steel wire sanded to flat, and then formed to an in-scale blade.
  21. Hmm, just the barrel on a ruined breastwork, as shot off the carriage? Hmm, and place a senior officer/general over it.. it sounds good....
  22. How exactly do you mean the cannon barrel on the redoubt? Redoubt was the earth wall section with a cutout for the gun, guns were in their usual carriages..
  23. Just unpacked the cannons, and neither the russian nor french 6pdr does not fit the space available, even the carriage is already over 5 cm between the wheel to ground contact point and the tail... So, what would you suggest? My ideas for alternate Rook: Senior officer on foot Light cavalry (cossack) as knight, and a heavy (curassier) as a rook Redoubt wall section with 1-2 artillerymen wielding the heavy cleaning rod in self defence or shooters.
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